chevyCowboy
I might be crazy but i ain't dumb
if its centerd in the bolt hole you can use the full toruge inserts. the cut off is as long as it is with in the outer edge of the bolt hole it will work
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6.5TD engine expired? Rebuild time?
- Thread starter 3500GMC
- Start date
chevyCowboy
I might be crazy but i ain't dumb
they make kits for either size but im not sure if you can use it that way
chevyCowboy
I might be crazy but i ain't dumb
check out there web site http://fulltorque.com/ the way it works i think it is a good repair.
as a side not i called a guy who dose this all the time in MI and he has complete faith it them being an excelent repair and feels that they make the bolt hole stonger then it was before
as a side not i called a guy who dose this all the time in MI and he has complete faith it them being an excelent repair and feels that they make the bolt hole stonger then it was before
96 OILBURNER
Member
You need to check out some of Missy's posts on the Lock-N-Stitch repairs.
3500GMC
What T F, over
Enter 6.2
Well it looks promising, I now have a surrogate engine- a stand in, if you will. Bought a 6.2 for a buck fifty. Got the pan off and it's clean. Been rebuilt not too long ago. Bearings look very good. Going to do a compression check next.
You should see why it was pulled and left for dead... Pics soon. This is highly likely the reason I got such a screamin' deal on it.
Well it looks promising, I now have a surrogate engine- a stand in, if you will. Bought a 6.2 for a buck fifty. Got the pan off and it's clean. Been rebuilt not too long ago. Bearings look very good. Going to do a compression check next.
You should see why it was pulled and left for dead... Pics soon. This is highly likely the reason I got such a screamin' deal on it.
3500GMC
What T F, over
More stuff
The 6.2 I now have was bought for the Banks turbo kit on it. The OO thought it was 'done' when it sprang a major oil leak from the rear.
Well, when you attach the crankcase vent up to where it was originally when it was N/A- now having 10 or so PSI of BOOST in the intake, in this case the CAM PLUG decides to part company. :rolleyes5:
I looked over every bearing in the engine, excellent shape. The oil pump, good. This engine is a pretty fresh short block. The timing chain needs replaced, though. Pistons skirts have damn near no wear.
The 6.2 I now have was bought for the Banks turbo kit on it. The OO thought it was 'done' when it sprang a major oil leak from the rear.
Well, when you attach the crankcase vent up to where it was originally when it was N/A- now having 10 or so PSI of BOOST in the intake, in this case the CAM PLUG decides to part company. :rolleyes5:
I looked over every bearing in the engine, excellent shape. The oil pump, good. This engine is a pretty fresh short block. The timing chain needs replaced, though. Pistons skirts have damn near no wear.
Attachments
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Score!!!!!!
turbovanman
I has boost, :O)
Score +2. :thumbsup:
3500GMC
What T F, over
Update
OK we're back in bidness I think.
Took the recip assy. minus pistons from the engine in post #69 and placed it into a better block/piston setup...
In the meantime I fully ported the big valve '82 6.2 heads to the 6.5 intake and exhaust manifolds. Relieved the valve pockets big time. The ports on the '82 heads are actually quite good to start with. It's a shame I didn't get any pics of the heads while I was porting them.
After that I took them to the local machine shop for a 3 angle valve job... Had to buy one new exhaust valve. (another thread) That cost me $50...alone.
Engine is bolted in. Plumbing and wiring next.
OK we're back in bidness I think.
Took the recip assy. minus pistons from the engine in post #69 and placed it into a better block/piston setup...
In the meantime I fully ported the big valve '82 6.2 heads to the 6.5 intake and exhaust manifolds. Relieved the valve pockets big time. The ports on the '82 heads are actually quite good to start with. It's a shame I didn't get any pics of the heads while I was porting them.
After that I took them to the local machine shop for a 3 angle valve job... Had to buy one new exhaust valve. (another thread) That cost me $50...alone.
Engine is bolted in. Plumbing and wiring next.
3500GMC
What T F, over
Another update
Well after being drug through the trenches, this sorry excuse for a truck is still giving me the red ass.
After tracking down fuel delivery problems (bees stuffing their f'n larvae into the inlet of the FM :mad2
the new engine fires and surges a few times and sets there and PURRS very nicely. I thought hey, this is good.
About two minutes into warmup, the same huge white cloud of unburnt diesel nearly suffocates me. Will barely idle and accelerate. The same deal as this thread a few months ago- only now with an engine that hits on all 8:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?23712-Lots-of-white-smoke-(video)
I need real confirmation on weather or not this is what DB2 IP's do when they take a leave. Do I need a fresh IP?
Edit..
The answer is NO... Guess that, in a nutshell, sums things up. Now I'm answering my own questions... Where's the suicide smiley when I need it? Oh yeah, here it is. :suicide:
Well after being drug through the trenches, this sorry excuse for a truck is still giving me the red ass.
After tracking down fuel delivery problems (bees stuffing their f'n larvae into the inlet of the FM :mad2
the new engine fires and surges a few times and sets there and PURRS very nicely. I thought hey, this is good.About two minutes into warmup, the same huge white cloud of unburnt diesel nearly suffocates me. Will barely idle and accelerate. The same deal as this thread a few months ago- only now with an engine that hits on all 8:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?23712-Lots-of-white-smoke-(video)
I need real confirmation on weather or not this is what DB2 IP's do when they take a leave. Do I need a fresh IP?
Edit..
From post #5 on the tread linked above...
The answer is NO... Guess that, in a nutshell, sums things up. Now I'm answering my own questions... Where's the suicide smiley when I need it? Oh yeah, here it is. :suicide:
Last edited:
The video of the bad engine 'jumping' did not run very long. Is this one at least smooth and smokey?
It takes 2-3 min or longer to purge the air and this is standing on the throttle, WOT, as it dies if you let off. It should clear up. Cold advance is for cold. Drop it in reverse and lay the hammer on 2 min at a time with the brakes locked to warm it up. When the needle for temp starts to move you are past the cold advance kick out point. It does not take long with a load to warm up - it does take a long time to warm up without a load at low idle.
The smoke and soot from purging the air like this in the shop... Well, I had to de-soot the toilet seat. It puked smoke and all kinds of stuff till it started running good.
You may want to pull the top intake and check if the turbo is throwing out oil. Possible with seeing coolant in oil.
I think you just have some air to get out.
Next advance the timing, move pump mark to the driver's side, some. The 6.5 injectors appear to be higher pop than the old 6.2 units. So the marks on a 6.2 pump don't work. Mine is advanced by a line. Your mileage may vary. Rule of thumb: White smoke is retarded. Black Smoke is advanced. Heat and altitude are factors for this. From days with my ole 6.2 NA burb decades ago: High altitude causes black smoke so places like Colorado the shops retard the timing - and that can cause white smoke.
Cold start if I drop mine in reverse and hammer it I get steady black haze until the cold advance drops off and then it clears up. (Except for headlights or sunset/sunrise...) Not saying the timing is bang on, but, it is close enough without tools.
It takes 2-3 min or longer to purge the air and this is standing on the throttle, WOT, as it dies if you let off. It should clear up. Cold advance is for cold. Drop it in reverse and lay the hammer on 2 min at a time with the brakes locked to warm it up. When the needle for temp starts to move you are past the cold advance kick out point. It does not take long with a load to warm up - it does take a long time to warm up without a load at low idle.
The smoke and soot from purging the air like this in the shop... Well, I had to de-soot the toilet seat. It puked smoke and all kinds of stuff till it started running good.
You may want to pull the top intake and check if the turbo is throwing out oil. Possible with seeing coolant in oil.
I think you just have some air to get out.
Next advance the timing, move pump mark to the driver's side, some. The 6.5 injectors appear to be higher pop than the old 6.2 units. So the marks on a 6.2 pump don't work. Mine is advanced by a line. Your mileage may vary. Rule of thumb: White smoke is retarded. Black Smoke is advanced. Heat and altitude are factors for this. From days with my ole 6.2 NA burb decades ago: High altitude causes black smoke so places like Colorado the shops retard the timing - and that can cause white smoke.
Cold start if I drop mine in reverse and hammer it I get steady black haze until the cold advance drops off and then it clears up. (Except for headlights or sunset/sunrise...) Not saying the timing is bang on, but, it is close enough without tools.
Last edited:
3500GMC
What T F, over
Update
Yes, for a couple of minutes before the IP showed it's ass, the engine sounded beautiful and did not smoke a bit. Had that perfect rattle. This engine will be a good one. I can't wait to take a ride. The turbo is sealed up good still, No oil.
The IP is back off the engine and will be going with me to Columbus Diesel Services, Monday. May as well do it right. When I first bought the truck blown up, it smoked a bunch while knocking and idling, I just thought it was the trashed engine. Now I can sefely say 'Add an IP to the bill'.....
Before I bolted the manifolds on, I shot a few pics of the ports and port matching. I think these big valve heads cobined with some good port work should flow some decent AIR. The yellowish look is from the machine shop parts washer when I had the valve job done.
The one shot is from inside the intake noting the match and blending of the ports.
Yes, for a couple of minutes before the IP showed it's ass, the engine sounded beautiful and did not smoke a bit. Had that perfect rattle. This engine will be a good one. I can't wait to take a ride. The turbo is sealed up good still, No oil.
The IP is back off the engine and will be going with me to Columbus Diesel Services, Monday. May as well do it right. When I first bought the truck blown up, it smoked a bunch while knocking and idling, I just thought it was the trashed engine. Now I can sefely say 'Add an IP to the bill'.....
Before I bolted the manifolds on, I shot a few pics of the ports and port matching. I think these big valve heads cobined with some good port work should flow some decent AIR. The yellowish look is from the machine shop parts washer when I had the valve job done.
The one shot is from inside the intake noting the match and blending of the ports.
3500GMC
What T F, over
Update
I figure I better get this thread updated.
The quick version of the chain of events to this point:
-Bought this '93 locally from a guy on CL with blown 6.5 212k on the clock, delivered, never drove it.
-Eventually yanked it and found two spun rod bearings.
-Got laid off from my job, not scheduled to return. This threw a monkey wrench into plans.
-Fiddled around and got the Rad rodded out and tested. New belt, hoses, fluids on and on. Cleaned bearing chips from turbo oil passages.
-Rebuilt a set of long coarse injectors. Made my pop fixture.
-A friend locally had a $150 '82 6.2 complete. Bought it and promptly found a bad #5 cylinder. Learned also my DB24911 was shot. :rolleyes5: vid: http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?23712-Lots-of-white-smoke-(video)
-Short time later the same guy made it right and gave me a good 6.2 block and pistons.
-Swapped out some parts, built a stock bore 6.2 with new rings/hone.
-Ported the '82 big valve heads.
-Had the IP built by Columbus Diesel Supply for a healthy sum. Tweaked fuel rates, high rev governor. (future things too)
-Scored gently used Fluidampr.
-Fired new engine, found leaky PS pump.. GREAT, pulled the pulley and installed new shaft seal.
-Short test drive revealed bad front bearings, ball joints and other things, rebuilt front end.
-Yanked bed for unknown fuel delivery problem, suspected fuel sock, found plugged FFM inlet barb. Repaired the tank sender while there.
-New LP and all orings.
-Decided to do a good wire brushing on the frame, coated it with Chassis Saver semi-gloss paint.
-Dropped the tank and found crusty leaky FUEL lines.. Made new lines...
-Inspected rear diff, did new lube in both F+R diffs.
-Relocated batteries to the RR frame rail behind cab.
-Previously installed trans pan drain plug KIT was leaking.. Made my own.. no more leaks. New fluid/ filter/ gasket.
-Found leaky RR hub oil seal.. RR brakes SOAKED. Leaky LR wh/cyl. Now NEW brakes F+R complete. Everything new except for turned rear drums.
-New brakes lines to rear, flex, and on axle.
-Reminding myself, 'this is fun'
I'm sure some things I forgot to list. Been a freaking blurrrr.
Been driving the beast around the block, checking, adjusting, playing around. Soon to get tags and insurance, slap the bed back on, bumper, hitch, trailer wiring.
Scored a gently used Holset HX35W for later. GM-3 is loose.
It's damn near a new '93 again. Video and pics coming soon. Revs as quick as a small block. Turbo is always spooled, engine flows serious air. She runs damn nice.
I figure I better get this thread updated.
The quick version of the chain of events to this point:
-Bought this '93 locally from a guy on CL with blown 6.5 212k on the clock, delivered, never drove it.
-Eventually yanked it and found two spun rod bearings.
-Got laid off from my job, not scheduled to return. This threw a monkey wrench into plans.
-Fiddled around and got the Rad rodded out and tested. New belt, hoses, fluids on and on. Cleaned bearing chips from turbo oil passages.
-Rebuilt a set of long coarse injectors. Made my pop fixture.
-A friend locally had a $150 '82 6.2 complete. Bought it and promptly found a bad #5 cylinder. Learned also my DB24911 was shot. :rolleyes5: vid: http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?23712-Lots-of-white-smoke-(video)
-Short time later the same guy made it right and gave me a good 6.2 block and pistons.
-Swapped out some parts, built a stock bore 6.2 with new rings/hone.
-Ported the '82 big valve heads.
-Had the IP built by Columbus Diesel Supply for a healthy sum. Tweaked fuel rates, high rev governor. (future things too)
-Scored gently used Fluidampr.
-Fired new engine, found leaky PS pump.. GREAT, pulled the pulley and installed new shaft seal.
-Short test drive revealed bad front bearings, ball joints and other things, rebuilt front end.
-Yanked bed for unknown fuel delivery problem, suspected fuel sock, found plugged FFM inlet barb. Repaired the tank sender while there.
-New LP and all orings.
-Decided to do a good wire brushing on the frame, coated it with Chassis Saver semi-gloss paint.
-Dropped the tank and found crusty leaky FUEL lines.. Made new lines...
-Inspected rear diff, did new lube in both F+R diffs.
-Relocated batteries to the RR frame rail behind cab.
-Previously installed trans pan drain plug KIT was leaking.. Made my own.. no more leaks. New fluid/ filter/ gasket.
-Found leaky RR hub oil seal.. RR brakes SOAKED. Leaky LR wh/cyl. Now NEW brakes F+R complete. Everything new except for turned rear drums.
-New brakes lines to rear, flex, and on axle.
-Reminding myself, 'this is fun'
I'm sure some things I forgot to list. Been a freaking blurrrr.
Been driving the beast around the block, checking, adjusting, playing around. Soon to get tags and insurance, slap the bed back on, bumper, hitch, trailer wiring.
Scored a gently used Holset HX35W for later.
GM-3 is loose. It's damn near a new '93 again. Video and pics coming soon. Revs as quick as a small block. Turbo is always spooled, engine flows serious air. She runs damn nice.
Last edited:
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
sounds like you've been busy
3500GMC
What T F, over
Like a beaver.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Yeah, i bought my truck for 1k, so i pretty much went through the same things... Sucks, but man she drives nice now and will take on other newer diesels!
3500GMC
What T F, over
1k that's awesome. Bought the '93 for 1500. Delivered ha ha.
So yeah if I were to sell it (hypothetically) I'd now need twice the book value to break even!!! :hihi:
:WTF:
So yeah if I were to sell it (hypothetically) I'd now need twice the book value to break even!!! :hihi:
:WTF: