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6.5TD engine expired? Rebuild time?

I appreciate the optimistic comments. I'm in no way 'reeling' over this. I bought this thing on a whim locally knowing full well of it's engine condition.

I've rebuilt and hotrodded several, several 'gas' V-8's and such, so I am comfortable with the details of a proper build. Bring it on!

Pricing seems to be leveling off on parts since everybody's jumping on the Cummins/p-stroke/d-max bandwagon. :D I'm even contemplating buying a newer 6.5TD complete that is expired ($200) for parts. I need a d-side manifold and probably a rod or two and I wouldn't mind tinkering with a GM-8 turbo also. I don't have all the money in the world, BUT if I did I still would stick with what is supposed to be in my '93. And I won't just blindly throw money at it, either.

I read most everything I can on this forum. I am still learining.
 
Well.

So I'm procrastinating a bit.

Today I hooked up an external starter switch and pulled the fuel solenoid wire. I then cranked over the engine while watching the valvetrain. Everything seems fine here. All rockers moved with no clanks or slop.

But... I heard a definite bottom end KNOCK even while cranking the starter. Yep for me it's confirmed. This is not a good noise, no matter what.:eek:

Does removing the complete nose for better engine access sound too unreasonable? Easier engine R+R?
 
Thanks packratt, wow that 6.5 of yours really checked out big time. It's a wonder she still ran.

I did visit DD's site and they appear to be fair in pricing. I guess I will see what, if anything, is salvageable on my '93 before I go that route.

Do you remember the freight costs?
 
Freight was $250 for motor to me and another $250 to ship the core back, if it had been worthwhile. Due to the cracked block it wasn't worthwhile to return the good parts for core.
 
So just reading over this thread and I am curious at this point of the cost difference to do a full rebuild from the ground up on the 6.5 or do the cummins swap? Does anybody have any fairly close estimates on what it would cost for each option? I know there are probably a lot of variables but just a good guestimate.
 
3500GMC said:
Alrighty gentlemen (and Missy:smile5:)

Bought this truck in signature with known engine problem. I'm not quite the diesel man yet so I need an experienced ear or twenty.

This was a cold start at 80+* air temp. No coolant in oil. Low coolant when I first drug it home- probably a crack or a head gasket. Have not refilled coolant so I do not know if there is an external leak somewhere.

But the racket this thing is making is pretty scary. I see the white smoke and it does have a dead miss. Although today it was pretty smooth. Still smoked though. No road test- don't want to scatter it.

Tell me what you'd do with it. :confused:




Hit the 'HQ' button and crank it up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k0vPYVbDdyI
Click to expand...

Has the harmonic balancer and the crankshaft pulley been checked. You can get a heck of a clank from them. Easy test is to remove the serpentine belt, or all belts, then start it. If sound goes away, it's easy to fix from there.
 
DieselSlug said:
DONT JUNK THE COVER!!! If your going to get rid of it, sell it on ebay. Those things go for some decent money. My new engine came with one, i have been trying to find one for a while.
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I would personally do a compression test before you go any further.



As for the Cummins swap, how much fab work can you do? do you have a welder, torch's etc? What is your intended usage? Heavy towing might call for a Cummins but plenty tow lots of weight with a 6.5 and no issues. Hell, most likely for the swap cost and frustration, you could buy a new or low mileage used engine, a better turbo, upgraded IP and PMD relocator, reflash computer, exhaust, gauges and still have money left over, :thumbsup:

I've seen other threads where you should do it as a project, could take 6 or more months and cost is based on your fab skills and the price you buy a powertrain for.
 
VanMan, thanks for the reply. I've got some skills... and tools... :smile5: But I like being somewhat of an underdog. The 'swap' has crossed my mind but it just seems WRONG. I dunno...

I will be posting results from a compression test very soon from my '93 (it's all mechanical..no PMD) for all to see. I've been doing some side jobs for people and haven't been fiddling with the one ton GMC much... I know, I know.

As for the side job, I replaced a set of lifters in a 'vortec V6' in a '95 half ton as pictured in front of my '93 GMC 6.5TD. I haven't landed the bad news on the owner, the collapsed lifter is the least of his problems. Look at that GOO on the underside of those valve covers! Ummm, water and OIL don't mix? Yeah, I'm afraid she's taking on water from somewhere. But hey, she doesn't TICK any more... WhatCanSay?

'till next time.
 

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3500GMC said:
know.

As for the side job, I replaced a set of lifters in a 'vortec V6' in a '95 half ton as pictured in front of my '93 GMC 6.5TD. I haven't landed the bad news on the owner, the collapsed lifter is the least of his problems. Look at that GOO on the underside of those valve covers! Ummm, water and OIL don't mix? Yeah, I'm afraid she's taking on water from somewhere. But hey, she doesn't TICK any more... WhatCanSay?

'till next time.
Click to expand...


That's because the intake was leaking, common problem and most likely the reason the lifters were ticking, coolant in the oil. Now you've replace the intake gaskets, you should be fine.
 
UPDATE

Today was compression test day. Yipp-eee! But no, there is not any good news. First I drop the RF inner fender. Pull 8 glow plugs and proceed withs ze tezting. Cold test, engine is in no shape to warm up thoroughly. Test is strictly for diagnostics. To keep it short and sweet, #3 is 30psi and #8 is 80psi.....:rolleyes5: The others tested were 260-280, and again, cold, and this engine has 213k on it.

A few holes I could NOT get my rather unwieldly gauge to reach. No matter how good the rest are doesn't make 30psi BETTER.

Another thing, I found it to have not 1, not 2, but 4 bad glow plugs.

Which begs the question, could the previous owner have killed this engine in trying to drive it with 4 cylinders not lit properly? I could reason if the compression was decent then the other cylinders with bad GP's would eventually light, but at least one or two did NOT.

Me thinks I have some serious wrench spinning ahead. :D
 
3500GMC said:
Today was compression test day. Yipp-eee! But no, there is not any good news. First I drop the RF inner fender. Pull 8 glow plugs and proceed withs ze tezting. Cold test, engine is in no shape to warm up thoroughly. Test is strictly for diagnostics. To keep it short and sweet, #3 is 30psi and #8 is 80psi.....:rolleyes5: The others tested were 260-280, and again, cold, and this engine has 213k on it.

A few holes I could NOT get my rather unwieldly gauge to reach. No matter how good the rest are doesn't make 30psi BETTER.

Another thing, I found it to have not 1, not 2, but 4 bad glow plugs.

Which begs the question, could the previous owner have killed this engine in trying to drive it with 4 cylinders not lit properly? I could reason if the compression was decent then the other cylinders with bad GP's would eventually light, but at least one or two did NOT.

Me thinks I have some serious wrench spinning ahead. :D
Click to expand...

Bummer about the compression...

Running with bad glows wouldn't kill engine, the cylinders would get up to temp shortly and fully combust on their own.

Glows only light at startup, they don't do anything on a started engine, except perhaps 5-10 seconds of afterglow... Then thats it for them.
 
All my glows are rotted off. I have run on zero glows for about 2 years now, like matt said only for cold starts are they used. SO i plug my truck in everyday allnight all the time...
 
Matt Bachand said:
Bummer about the compression...

Running with bad glows wouldn't kill engine, the cylinders would get up to temp shortly and fully combust on their own.

Glows only light at startup, they don't do anything on a started engine, except perhaps 5-10 seconds of afterglow... Then thats it for them.
Click to expand...

I guess it cause some wear due to the cylinders having raw fuel in, over time, of course.
 
Matt Bachand said:
Touche
Click to expand...

Hey it was worth a shot, eh? ):h

Couple a bum GP with a stuck injector and you get.....My engine?

Wristpin? Clankity clanKk.

We will know here in the not too distant future...Although I have #3@30psi and #8@ 80...Do I pull the oil pan and grab a flashlight next, or what?

Hmmm.
 
No, Pulling the pan with the engine still in the truck is a waste of your time. Spend the effort yanking that motor and pull apart on a stand.
 
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