6.5L TD Motorhome repair/repower

[Husker6.5]

Hope you ain't deer hunting with that gun!

Of course he does! Jody is a muzzle loader hunter! Trust me, a .50 cal muzzle loader will definitely kill deer and much larger animals. We have bow, muzzle loading and rifle deer hunting seasons here.

 

[3bals]

Hope you ain't deer hunting with that gun!

Yep, .72 cal double barrel muzzleloader. Works good for moose too. I always use a round ball with a cloth patch backed up with genuine black powder.

 

[3bals]

Warmer weather is here again. Maybe even over 30* for you up there. Any miles getting put on the p400?

When that 6.2 rv thread showed up the other day, got me to thinking a race would be funny between you two. Any power or mpg comparison of your before and after?

I'm working on an update post. Be patient.

 

[Husker6.5]

Yep, .72 cal double barrel muzzleloader. Works good for moose too. I always use a round ball with a cloth patch backed up with genuine black powder.

.72 Cal? Shit, Jody, don't accidentally pull both triggers at once! If it doesn't knock you on your ass, it could break your collar bone! (Of course, it COULD be used to put dying 6.5's out of their misery with a shot through the block, LOL!)

 

[Jaryd]

I'm working on an update post. Be patient.

Well, it’s been almost 3 1/2 years since you said to be patient.
Got a update yet.

 

[3bals]

Well, it gets about 12 mpg, depending on terrain/weather. It seems to have more get up and go, but after you get the Rs up. It is very sluggish out of the hole. (bigger turbo)

 

[Husker6.5]

AND it doesn't need a tow from the campground entrance to its pad site by my Suburban!

 

[3bals]

The motorhome had 83,000 miles on it at the time of the engine swap. Now it has 106,000.

Problems in the 23,000 miles:
Oil leaks, burned wires too close to exhaust, alternator bearings, Brake issues 2X, serp belt tensioner, both front tires, exhaust leaks at the header and probably more that I can't think of right now. All these things failed because of quality issues and/or workmanship issues.

 

[MrMarty51]

When I had the turbo off of My 2000 K3500, I had a flat hard sheet of steel, 1/2" thick, glued a sheet of 80 grit sanding paper to it, the wet/dry black stuff, shoved the mounting flange of the turbo around on the sand paper until it became flat. the manifold flange was pulled on all four corners. I then used a flat piece of 2X4 wood block and stapled a piece of sand paper to it, shoved it around on the manifold flange unti it too became flat once more and then put it together. I used a turbo flange gasket for a 5.9 cummins engine between the flanges. The gasket is a thin steel gasket.
I once again removed the turbo after maybe 20,000 miles and checked the flanges using the same method. they both are still flat.
I had used a milling machine at the DOT when I worked there to flaten the flanges on the 3116 cat engines, the never did go back to a pulled state at the corners once they were machined back to flat. Must have had somethng to do with the heat tempering them or some such that I dont understand.
Anyhow, that ended the exhaust leak on My 6.5 diesel.

 

[3bals]

My exhaust leak was a little different. There were a couple factors with the exhaust headers. First of all, when they were fabricated, they were made to fit a different style of head. Apparently, the P-400 heads are different. Anyhow the headers wouldn't sit tight against the head mating surface, causing blow by, which ate up the gasket material. Once the gasket was gone, the bolts would loosen. We tried many things until the true problem was discovered. To fix it I sent the headers back to the fab shop to be fix/replaced. Then I used Remlex gaskets and locking header bolts. It seems to be holding.