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6.5L Performance

WarWagon said:
I suggest they last longer than standard rings - because you change rings due to blowby. I don't have any blowby. Of course you get any IDI rings hot and you ruin them. (Overheating takes the temper out of the rings and instant increase in blowby.) Further less soot in the oil = less abrasives and longer engine life.

Really hot days removing the radiator will run the transmission hotter and reduce AC performance. My trans shop plumbed in the air to oil cooler wrong and I suffered for years with high trans temps and poor AC performance. The AC condenser runs at 160 degrees on a hot day. Put a oil cooler that is 220 degrees in front of the condenser and you are heating the condenser up. I've blown off the emergency vent on the AC compressor several times due to this.

With both oil coolers going through the air to oil cooler first trans temps = 210. AC sucks.
Without the radiator in the loop trans temps = 220 and AC still sucks.
With the oil going through the radiator first and then the air to oil cooler trans temps = 180 and AC works in 121 degree weather. This is what I run now and thought I had all the time.

(AC has VOV orface for all configurations.)

Note: if you have an engine oil cooler in front of the condenser, well, the next step is it needs to be moved behind the condenser. You need air temps less than 160 degrees hitting the condenser or you are heating it up. Engine oil in the cooler is over 160 degrees... Yes head pressures are high at 160 degrees. I have not done this to my 1993 yet.
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I'll be doing the total seal rings too. I'm at the point of figuring where to locate the aux coolers after I install a 2nd gen Dodge CAC/IC been thinking a HMMWV condenser as they are massive.
 
Burning oil said:
I completely relocated both trans and oil cooler. One under driver seat with puller fan. Trans cooler under bed with fan also. Both fans are hooked to my LP relay harness so the fans run when engine is on.
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Trans, and Oil cooler without fan installed under seats works?
 
Looking forward to seeing the dual alternator setup. Where did you get the parts?

Only downside that I have read about the dual alternators was that it blocked / restricted access to the power steering pump's cap.
 
JayTheCPA said:
Looking forward to seeing the dual alternator setup. Where did you get the parts?

Only downside that I have read about the dual alternators was that it blocked / restricted access to the power steering pump's cap.
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My dual gen/alt setup homemade bracket etc. it does not block p/s pump cap you just have to move your arm father to the right to remove it.1999 K2500 Burb dual gen.jpg
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, duals no matter the amp output when controlled by pcm share the total output required for any given load so each one would have 50%+- less work to do.
 
FellowTraveler said:
Correct me if I'm wrong, duals no matter the amp output when controlled by pcm share the total output required for any given load so each one would have 50%+- less work to do.
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Not always. I know some use the 2nd alternator strictly as backup using the primary to do the brunt of the work. And not many trucks having dual alternators use PCM controls, DODGe was about the only one I knew of. The 6.5L sure doesn't have PCM controls. Late model GM gassers had it with single alternators, but most of the time the 2nd alternator was just a mirror of the primary. And if 1 regulator is set even a fractional bit higher than the other, it will do all the work until the voltage gets pulled down for the 2nd one to kick in. So in reality your still only using 1 of the 2. Curious why you have 2 alternators to begin with? I know there isn't much need for snow plows in Florida? I know I can run both airs on high, I also have an electric fan mounted on my condenser, all 6 lights on, and neevr have any problems even at a 600 idle holding 14 volts or better. Even with my travel trailer plugged in and charging it's batteries, a single 130 amp AD244 still holds 14 volts.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Not always. I know some use the 2nd alternator strictly as backup using the primary to do the brunt of the work. And not many trucks having dual alternators use PCM controls, DODGe was about the only one I knew of. The 6.5L sure doesn't have PCM controls. Late model GM gassers had it with single alternators, but most of the time the 2nd alternator was just a mirror of the primary. And if 1 regulator is set even a fractional bit higher than the other, it will do all the work until the voltage gets pulled down for the 2nd one to kick in. So in reality your still only using 1 of the 2. Curious why you have 2 alternators to begin with? I know there isn't much need for snow plows in Florida? I know I can run both airs on high, I also have an electric fan mounted on my condenser, all 6 lights on, and neevr have any problems even at a 600 idle holding 14 volts or better. Even with my travel trailer plugged in and charging it's batteries, a single 130 amp AD244 still holds 14 volts.
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Ok, I had problems w/single alt getting hot and thermal limiter would stop the charging until it cooled down again, had changed more than a few alt's too and it would just repeat it mostly in traffic or around town, it was determined because I had CAC/IC in/out installed by it restricting air flow around it was the reason so the dual alt's was chosen as a fix and it worked.

I could swear the wire between both alt's goes to inst cluster & PCM for some reason I'm thinking idle control, but not really sure until I get back into the shop manuals to refresh my old lack of memory, "sometimers."

I run an inverter, laptop, fridge freezer, microwave, com gear etc. on a regular basis I run dual AGM batteries under hood and have a big AGM house battery inside for when engine is off.
 
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Ok FERM, I was confused and think I have it right now; it's the chip inside the regulators not the PCM that adjusts pulse wave modulation PWM over a very narrow band and both alt's had to be connected via same wire to the voltage gauge in the cluster otherwise they would fighting each other for the dominant role of charging.
 
Some dual alts are setup in lead lag. Where one alternator is the lead and has a different size pulley than the other one. This keeps them from fighting each other for the load. One with the smaller pulley comes up to voltage faster than the other, high load then lowers the voltage, and the second alternator picks up some load. Light load has the primary alternator doing all the work.

PCM control is awful as the Duramax dual alt setup will 100% fail if the lead alternator fails. It doesn't even bother or try to light up the second alternator when the first one has failed. Those of us who see the CS130 firecrackers go off like redundant alternators even if modern alt failure is rare.
 
FellowTraveler said:
I'll be doing the total seal rings too. I'm at the point of figuring where to locate the aux coolers after I install a 2nd gen Dodge CAC/IC been thinking a HMMWV condenser as they are massive.
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Nice..... You gave a good tip, I'll talk to my mechanic to install Trans, and Oil cooler on the line underneath the seats. So I'll have space to install the HMMWV condenser. You think Works?
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
I run an updated style SUBURBAN condenser in mine with a single 10" electric fan, and I have NO problems having ice cold A/C in my BURB.
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Is it the one with fin/plate design, or?
My burb was ok o the highway but it warmed up at slower stop & go or idle it had factory aux oil and trans coolers blocking the condenser and no room for that 10" fan.
 
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