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6.5 doesnt get fuel to the lines

R

Russell Burkhart

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Stuart, Virginia
My name is Russell, I have had this problem b4 but eventually figured it out. Well this time, I am stumped. Replace the IP , PMD, guy sent me a used IP and nothing on it worked, so, I put my original pump back on. Now we have fuel to the IP, but my battery and starter are getting too hot and all I get is a CLICK from the solenoid, so I jump it from there just to get it over the HUMP, and back to cranking the engine. To no avail does the fuel go to the injector lines but, if you disconnect it and crack the nut open on the IP some fuel will come out. I know that it is a long and frustrating procedure, is there any way possible for this to be easier? or am I overlooking a step somewhere? There was a thread with ten steps on how to eliminate some of the problems from previous attempts, is anyone familiar with the thread? My truck is a 95 6.5 2500 4x4 chevy Silverado turbo. Runs great when it is running, need help from someone if possible. Thanks
 
Sounds like a lot of air. Take out the glow plugs to make it easier to spin over until injector lines are purged. Jumper the lift pump to run constantly until you get it running to insure you are not sucking more air and look for a fuel leak.

Let starter cool down. And charge batteries back up. Slow cranking speed is not good.
 
schiker said:
Sounds like a lot of air. Take out the glow plugs to make it easier to spin over until injector lines are purged. Jumper the lift pump to run constantly until you get it running to insure you are not sucking more air and look for a fuel leak.

Let starter cool down. And charge batteries back up. Slow cranking speed is not good.
Click to expand...
 
In addition to slow cranking not being effecient pumping action and less compression for start up when battery voltage gets too low it can cause flakey problems with electronics and harder on starter.
Diesels usually start up or there is a problem with air/fuel/compression/cold. Not quite same as gas engine that longer cranking can clear and start.
 
I don't advise jumping from another auto, you may burn out the glow system...

Clean and charge the batteries, remove the glow plugs, crack open the injector lines at the injectors, hot wire the LP so it runs constantly, start purging air at the filter top and once it's clear of air and your battery's are charged then spin the motor, a few seconds each time till you have fuel squirting out at the injectors, then tighten the lines leaving the glows out for now... spin the motor until you have fuel mist coming out the glow holes, then install the glows and give it a try... You should also install a clear piece of line on the return line from the injection pump, you will be able to see if their are any air bubbles coming from the pump...
 
Need 100 RPM cold and 150 RPM Hot to start. The starter can burn a field or brush and still spin at reduced speed. 30 seconds continuous cranking is the limit on what the starter can take before melting. Cool at least 2 min after a long crank.

The above advice is demonstrated in my project thread.

If it's not cranking fast enough it simply won't start.
 
Is your lift pump pushing fuel to the filter? You should be able to hot wire the lift pump and make it pump, and you should be able to open the bleeder on top of the filter and fuel come out.. if no fuel the lift pump isn't working and you will never get it to crank...
 
sctrailrider said:
Is your lift pump pushing fuel to the filter? You should be able to hot wire the lift pump and make it pump, and you should be able to open the bleeder on top of the filter and fuel come out.. if no fuel the lift pump isn't working and you will never get it to crank...
Click to expand...
I'm getting fuel all the way up and into the IP, just nothing coming out the back where all the lines connect.
 
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