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6.5 blues

W

woolydogg

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i got a code of 98 from my truck i looked it up on the codes it stated cylinder balance system on the # cylinder
. replaced the injector and still the same issue. i wonder if it could be another injector in a different cylinder or should i replace them all. hope fully some body here has some knowledge to which direction or directions i should check next. thanks
 
Be extremely careful where you buy injectors (or most any part for these). There is more junk out there than good stuff.

Injectors on these engines are best changed or rebuilt at 100,000 miles. You can get away with more but it’s really hard on it.

There’s a gamit of stuff to test.
You need a T at the ip (injection pump) fuel inlet for a pressure gauge.
Spec is 8-14psi. But it will run ok from 3psi up but its weak on power & mpg.
The fuel (along with the stanandyne lube) is what lubricates the ip & injectors. And since we don’t have sulfur diesel anymore the additive is needed. What additive are you running- some actually make it worse (this engine is very different than modern diesels).

On front of the ip, there is a 1/4 inch diameter by 5 inch long hose in an upside down U shape. Replace that with clear tubing. You can get cheap stuff at hardware store for $5 that lasts a few years. Or buy some from https://fuel-line.com/collections/fuel-line/products/1-4-fast-flow-fuel-line-1. That is $11 but is actually rated fuel hose. Buy a couple of screw style hose clamps for that because the spring loaded clamp won’t fit it. with the clear hose on permanent, you can instantly diagnose when things are going on. I tell everyone to add that fuel pressure gauge permanently mounted in the dash as well. It’s cheap insurance versus the price of an ip.

The clear hose you should see clean clear fluid going through it when running or cranking to start. Any visible contamination is a problem, as is bubbles traveling through it. One piece size bubble that gets trapped in the hose is normal, anything more than that tells that you are sucking Air in before the LP (Lift Pump).

There are two things not related to your issue to worry about that I try to tell people asap.
Oil cooler hoses that seep oil are about to blow and instantly ruin the engine.
Harmonic balancer should be replaced at 100,000 miles interval and at minimum needs thorough inspection. If the outer ring slips or comes off- engine hand grenades.
So take 3 minutes while doing the clear line & pressure gauge and check those out.
We have places we can recommend good parts to come from and some places to avoid so speak up before buying.
 
ak diesel driver said:
Haven't seen that user ID in awhile!
Click to expand...
Makes a person wonder how them folk is doing today.
Hopes that they are still alive, well and getting along just phine.
A HD forum I’m a member in.
There was one person that was real active.
Every year there is a gathering of however many people can attend.
The last time we seen Him and his wife was at the gathering in Arkansas. He had drove over from Louisiana to Arkansas in his motor home with bike in tow.
Sunday everyone has left and He was staying an extra day or two.
He had a heart attack after everyone had left.
He survived that with lots of medical attention and had got home okay.
He remained active in the forum then one day not another word.
I and several others reached out through the messaging system, that leaves members notification that they have a message, through their email, and not another word, other than his hometown no one knows where to look for people such as that.
Not knowing their real name there is no way to check obits for them too.
Done with this morbid post.
 
Will L. said:
Be extremely careful where you buy injectors (or most any part for these). There is more junk out there than good stuff.

Injectors on these engines are best changed or rebuilt at 100,000 miles. You can get away with more but it’s really hard on it.

There’s a gamit of stuff to test.
You need a T at the ip (injection pump) fuel inlet for a pressure gauge.
Spec is 8-14psi. But it will run ok from 3psi up but its weak on power & mpg.
The fuel (along with the stanandyne lube) is what lubricates the ip & injectors. And since we don’t have sulfur diesel anymore the additive is needed. What additive are you running- some actually make it worse (this engine is very different than modern diesels).

On front of the ip, there is a 1/4 inch diameter by 5 inch long hose in an upside down U shape. Replace that with clear tubing. You can get cheap stuff at hardware store for $5 that lasts a few years. Or buy some from https://fuel-line.com/collections/fuel-line/products/1-4-fast-flow-fuel-line-1. That is $11 but is actually rated fuel hose. Buy a couple of screw style hose clamps for that because the spring loaded clamp won’t fit it. with the clear hose on permanent, you can instantly diagnose when things are going on. I tell everyone to add that fuel pressure gauge permanently mounted in the dash as well. It’s cheap insurance versus the price of an ip.

The clear hose you should see clean clear fluid going through it when running or cranking to start. Any visible contamination is a problem, as is bubbles traveling through it. One piece size bubble that gets trapped in the hose is normal, anything more than that tells that you are sucking Air in before the LP (Lift Pump).

There are two things not related to your issue to worry about that I try to tell people asap.
Oil cooler hoses that seep oil are about to blow and instantly ruin the engine.
Harmonic balancer should be replaced at 100,000 miles interval and at minimum needs thorough inspection. If the outer ring slips or comes off- engine hand grenades.
So take 3 minutes while doing the clear line & pressure gauge and check those out.
We have places we can recommend good parts to come from and some places to avoid so speak up before buying.
Click to expand...
thanks for the response so im wondering if i will need to take off the intake manifold to check the fuel pressure at the I.P? Also i went ahead and put in all new injectors so now i have the same isssue different cylinder. Im also wondering where to get the small rubber return hose and clamps that go from injector to injector. Im also curious if it matters how your injectors are clocked when fully installed. there are two ports one on each side of the injector is one the inlet side and the other the outlet side or does that matter? and is there any way to do a compression check on a diesel?
 
woolydogg said:
thanks for the response so im wondering if i will need to take off the intake manifold to check the fuel pressure at the I.P? Also i went ahead and put in all new injectors so now i have the same isssue different cylinder. Im also wondering where to get the small rubber return hose and clamps that go from injector to injector. Im also curious if it matters how your injectors are clocked when fully installed. there are two ports one on each side of the injector is one the inlet side and the other the outlet side or does that matter? and is there any way to do a compression check on a diesel?
Click to expand...
Even new injectors need to be tested and balanced before installing.

Where did you get your injectors?
 
they are bosch injectors i called the store this morning and asked if they were tested and balance they told me that they were now i have two of them that i can see leaking it looks like they are leaking at the bottom but really no way to tell for sure they threaded in smoothly so i dont believe its the threads maybe the return hoses are the culprit. very frustrating however.
 
woolydogg said:
they are bosch injectors i called the store this morning and asked if they were tested and balance they told me that they were now i have two of them that i can see leaking it looks like they are leaking at the bottom but really no way to tell for sure they threaded in smoothly so i dont believe its the threads maybe the return hoses are the culprit. very frustrating however.
Click to expand...
I'm guessing they lied to you.
I seriously doubt autozone would sell tested and balanced injectors
You need to take them to a good rebuilder or contact rockabilly here
 
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