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506 BLOCK WORTH ANYTHING?

@Husker6.5 it's also a gear slap making a tick noise as well. They have a procedure to "sync" the 6.7 HPCR injection pump pistons with the engine to reduce gear slap from injection events vs. what the pump is doing.

The length of gears to go overhead cam is likely why they used a chain. Maybe they just couldn't stand the thought of a high maintenance timing belt?
 
Or said belt going snap and there go the valves, pistons, heads and possibly block in that zero clearance engine.
 
I'm pretty sure mine came without the spacer, I know I had to machine it a little to get it to fit the crank properly. I bought it back in 2013 or 2014, I'll try to dig up the receipt. The spacer would be for a DB2 without the reluctor or the balancer hub is longer than the DS4 setup.
 
Ok everyone, I have several GM diesel engines that I have acquired and I would like to build one of them using some of the leftover parts that I have. So the parts that I have that are worth anything are as follows... Harland Sharp 1.6:1 Roller Rockers, new P400 rockers & shafts, Heath Towing cam, new P400 timing chain & gearset, new P400 valves & valve springs, Holset Super HX 40 turbo and a couple of .310 DB2 IPs. So these are just some of the not so generic parts that I have to use. So here is a list of some of the blocks that I have... the 506 warranty replacement engine that was in my Burb before the P400 was installed which I know the history of it and it only has 50K on it with AmsOil but I let the cylinders rust up in my Florida shop so it needs to be bored and new pistons installed. I have a 10149599 block out of a 93 GM which has a broken crank. I have a 12552929 block that had a blown head gasket and water pitted the #7 cylinder and I'm not sure a .030 bore will be enough to get rid of the pits. And finally a 6.2 block # 14022660 which is a Jasper rebuild but supposedly has a bottom end knock possibly due from using Ether to start it. So none of these engines have been disassembled and inspected for cracks and so on. So I'm just asking for opinions on these block numbers so on and so forth. Could the 6.2 block be stronger depending on the bore? How about using the 6.2 heads for the bigger valves? I have two trucks to use, first I got a 1993 Chevy C10 short bed that I was going to use for a hot rod truck but then I got a 95 Chev K2500 which I think is the truck I am going to use for the intended engine, any engine will be a DB2 IP even the 95 K2500. The C10 has a running 5.7 and I think I will just sell it and use the K2500. Let me know your opinions, Thx.
 
Disassemble everything and verify exactly what you have.
I never bought into the 660 blocks being amazingly stronger, it’s just more of them survived because they were 150hp 350 torque engines. Yes the oil squirter holes COULD BE weaker, but that is not where the cracking starts. I hate the idea of boring a block and buying oversized pistons, unless it is making a 6.2 into a 6.5. That is the one place the 6.2 is the better block. The heat issues we have is bad enough and when the #7&8 get hot and squeeze down on the rings and pistons. I am talking with a guy currently about making gapless rings sized so they could actually fully collapse to fight this issue because he wants to run some really hot fuel.

yes 6.2 valves are larger and flow better. But you need to know if the heads are good first.
If I was rich and famous I would jump to p400 heads in a heartbeat. Remember they can have 6.2 valves fit in there. You didn’t mention heads in your possession.

roller rockers always win over regular, and afaik p400 is same rockers as gep&gm.

the truck itself is your preference. 2wd is faster if thats your desire.
Most people doing a gas to diesel conversion isn’t smart, but your skills means no big deal. But of that gasser is running- pickups sell for a premium right now.
 
spdgofast said:
Ok everyone, I have several GM diesel engines that I have acquired and I would like to build one of them using some of the leftover parts that I have. So the parts that I have that are worth anything are as follows... Harland Sharp 1.6:1 Roller Rockers, new P400 rockers & shafts, Heath Towing cam, new P400 timing chain & gearset, new P400 valves & valve springs, Holset Super HX 40 turbo and a couple of .310 DB2 IPs. So these are just some of the not so generic parts that I have to use. So here is a list of some of the blocks that I have... the 506 warranty replacement engine that was in my Burb before the P400 was installed which I know the history of it and it only has 50K on it with AmsOil but I let the cylinders rust up in my Florida shop so it needs to be bored and new pistons installed. I have a 10149599 block out of a 93 GM which has a broken crank. I have a 12552929 block that had a blown head gasket and water pitted the #7 cylinder and I'm not sure a .030 bore will be enough to get rid of the pits. And finally a 6.2 block # 14022660 which is a Jasper rebuild but supposedly has a bottom end knock possibly due from using Ether to start it. So none of these engines have been disassembled and inspected for cracks and so on. So I'm just asking for opinions on these block numbers so on and so forth. Could the 6.2 block be stronger depending on the bore? How about using the 6.2 heads for the bigger valves? I have two trucks to use, first I got a 1993 Chevy C10 short bed that I was going to use for a hot rod truck but then I got a 95 Chev K2500 which I think is the truck I am going to use for the intended engine, any engine will be a DB2 IP even the 95 K2500. The C10 has a running 5.7 and I think I will just sell it and use the K2500. Let me know your opinions, Thx.
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I've got a 95 929 I'll give you if you want it. It came out of my Sub with 162k miles on it. The heads had the typical cracks between the valves. The only reason I pulled it was it lost coolant under boost, if I drove it easy around town it didn't lose hardly any coolant. The only real issues it had was the injectors were bad in it and it lead to some damage in the piston on the very top on the bottom of the cylinder where fuel would puddle from the injectors dripping down, and when it started up, that raw fuel igniting burnt some of the piston crown. Most would have run it without a second thought. Unfortunately it's been sitting in my shop and mud dobbers made nests in it, so it needs pulled apart to clean out all the nests and grit. The cylinders bearly have surface rust on them and it turns over free as can be. I need it out of my shop and it's getting ready to go to scrap metal if somebody doesn't take it as I'm getting into some LS stuff and need room(I just haven't been able to bring myself to throw away a good short block, but nobody has followed through on picking it up in 12 years now).
 
Freight is the killer.
About 400 pounds on a pallet, through Old Dominion, to Anchorage Alaska, I think Kory said it was a shade under $400.00.
Seems from Florida to here would be about that same distance.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
I've got a 95 929 I'll give you if you want it. It came out of my Sub with 162k miles on it. The heads had the typical cracks between the valves. The only reason I pulled it was it lost coolant under boost, if I drove it easy around town it didn't lose hardly any coolant. The only real issues it had was the injectors were bad in it and it lead to some damage in the piston on the very top on the bottom of the cylinder where fuel would puddle from the injectors dripping down, and when it started up, that raw fuel igniting burnt some of the piston crown. Most would have run it without a second thought. Unfortunately it's been sitting in my shop and mud dobbers made nests in it, so it needs pulled apart to clean out all the nests and grit. The cylinders bearly have surface rust on them and it turns over free as can be. I need it out of my shop and it's getting ready to go to scrap metal if somebody doesn't take it as I'm getting into some LS stuff and need room(I just haven't been able to bring myself to throw away a good short block, but nobody has followed through on picking it up in 12 years now).
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Ferm, I'll come get that block if you can wait about three weeks, my wife is having some major surgery this coming Friday and I need to be around to take care of her for at least a least a week after and I don't think I can get there before this Friday with everything going on. Your about 2:45 minutes from me so let me know when or what time of day would be good for me to come. Thx Dave
 
spdgofast said:
Ferm, I'll come get that block if you can wait about three weeks, my wife is having some major surgery this coming Friday and I need to be around to take care of her for at least a least a week after and I don't think I can get there before this Friday with everything going on. Your about 2:45 minutes from me so let me know when or what time of day would be good for me to come. Thx Dave
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I'm around most of the time anymore. My back doesn't let me do much, but I need my shop space back so I can try and do a few things. I just picked up 3 other engines is the reason I'm in a crunch trying to get room back.
 
spdgofast said:
Ferm, I'll come get that block if you can wait about three weeks, my wife is having some major surgery this coming Friday and I need to be around to take care of her for at least a least a week after and I don't think I can get there before this Friday with everything going on. Your about 2:45 minutes from me so let me know when or what time of day would be good for me to come. Thx Dave
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Well, thats getting it a little closer to Me. 🤪😹😹😹😹
 
Well, it doesn't look like I'll be rebuilding the 599 block I have
 

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So I have 2 929 blocks and a 506 block that was a warranty block in my Suburban before the P400. One of the 929 blocks is Ferminators old 6.5, the other came from a 95 K2500 Florida Forestry truck, which has a cylinder pitted from a blown head gasket. So my next move is to disassemble my 506 block and check it out, I know the history and I ran Amsoil in it so we'll see what it looks like when I get it tore apart.
 
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