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4x4 Chevy 6.5 turbo diesel van project.

n8in8or said:
Ok. My injectors were popped to 2500 and I had some hot start problems with my Moose that weren't there with my DS4.
Click to expand...

So basically we have two leak point potentials, the pump plungers and the injector. High pop pressure can cause enough leakdown on hot thin fuel that it doesn't want to start? Hmmm

I should think with lower pop pressures you should get more power since more fuel is being delivered. :) However your efficiency may suffer due to less atomization.

Yeah setting these pop pressures is time consuming. But as I am only halfway through it, now is the time to reconsider those pressures. Thanks for the heads up on that pump. I have to get this engine done for our trip east to WI. The temptation to just run the current engine is pretty strong. I hate running an untested engine for long trips. I'll be pulling a trailer this time. Maybe I should stick a spare engine in the trailer. :) haha I already carry spare starters and alternators with me wherever I go. Lots of spare serp belts too.
 
consaka said:
So basically we have two leak point potentials, the pump plungers and the injector. High pop pressure can cause enough leakdown on hot thin fuel that it doesn't want to start? Hmmm

I should think with lower pop pressures you should get more power since more fuel is being delivered. :) However your efficiency may suffer due to less atomization.

Yeah setting these pop pressures is time consuming. But as I am only halfway through it, now is the time to reconsider those pressures. Thanks for the heads up on that pump. I have to get this engine done for our trip east to WI. The temptation to just run the current engine is pretty strong. I hate running an untested engine for long trips. I'll be pulling a trailer this time. Maybe I should stick a spare engine in the trailer. :) haha I already carry spare starters and alternators with me wherever I go. Lots of spare serp belts too.
Click to expand...
Yeah the theory is that the hot thin fuel leaks past the plungers at the low rpm of cranking speed.

A new engine always makes me nervous. I still wait for mine to puke and I've had it running for over a year and a half. Of course I'm possibly pushing the limits of the 6.5 architecture with mine so that adds to my apprehension.

Sounds like you know how to be prepared for whatever comes your way!
 
n8in8or said:
Yeah the theory is that the hot thin fuel leaks past the plungers at the low rpm of cranking speed.

A new engine always makes me nervous. I still wait for mine to puke and I've had it running for over a year and a half. Of course I'm possibly pushing the limits of the 6.5 architecture with mine so that adds to my apprehension.

Sounds like you know how to be prepared for whatever comes your way!
Click to expand...

I just realized I am not carrying an extra fuel pump. hmm Must be because I still have the one for the second tank hanging under there. Still I should have a spare because those parts house pumps are crap.
 
Yes you need a new gauge for your pop tester. Liquid filled is a must. I was taught to set at the breaking point of the injector- the "pop" pressure, not the injection event pressure- because that will always flutter. Infact, i install a pressure relief button like compression tester uses so it reads only maximum pressure obtained.

So yes lets say 150ish psi lower event pressure than pop pressure- that could be a big reason in different results vs other peoples levels maybe.
 
Will L. said:
Yes you need a new gauge for your pop tester. Liquid filled is a must. I was taught to set at the breaking point of the injector- the "pop" pressure, not the injection event pressure- because that will always flutter. Infact, i install a pressure relief button like compression tester uses so it reads only maximum pressure obtained.

So yes lets say 150ish psi lower event pressure than pop pressure- that could be a big reason in different results vs other peoples levels maybe.
Click to expand...
Ooh, I like that. Being able to register and read the maximum pressure achieved would be very helpful for setting injectors. Thanks for sharing that!
 
ugh! If i could find a gauge id be happy but with this pump I don't thing it is possible to put a one way valve with a pressure relief in there. I guess that would depend on the valve. got any sources for either?
 
n8in8or said:
Ok. My injectors were popped to 2500 and I had some hot start problems with my Moose that weren't there with my DS4. I brainstormed with Conestoga and came up to the conclusion that it was the high pop pressure. I just recently dropped my pop pressure to 1800 (yes 1800). I am still compiling my data so I can do a thorough comparison, but I can tell you there pretty much isn't a difference on the dyno between 1800 and 2500. I have yet to have a day hot enough to see if it took care of the hot start problem though. I think I would go a touch lower than 2400 if I were you, but I don't know how low, sorry. 2200? 2100? 2300? Dunno. Sorry that's all the help I can be, but hot start issues are no fun and I'd rather not see you struggle with that and have to pull your injectors and have them repopped. I will post my data once it's compiled - hopefully a week or so. I hope that helps.
Click to expand...


Was the head and rotor new or used in the pump they built for you?
 
IIRC, you typically have to specify if you want a new head and rotor.
I think that adds about another $500.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
EWC said:
What tester do you have ?
Click to expand...

Ok I was wrong. there is a number on that tester. S60H Still pretty sure it is straight from china. The gauge is odd somehow. Doesn't look like a pipe thread. I haven't removed it to be sure but pretty sure it isn't.
 
Update:

The waterpump backing plate that was suppose to arrive today turned out to be gaskets.
And my main splurge for rockers from Harland Sharp showed up at standard ratio instead of 6:1 like I asked for.
I wonder what else can go wrong.
I'm down another week for the backing plate and if H and S wanted to make that right I'd be down another 6 weeks.
Oh and have to ship back to them as well for more money. :(
Anyone know where I can find shims for the precup chambers? Seems the machine shop countersunk them too deep and thought some gobs of red threadlocker would make it right.
 
Umm. Crap. I am with Nate. I think i would start fighting now with the machine shop and get them to put something on paper that says what ever their fix is will take care of it, and that they are responsible for an entire engine and all the labor of R&R if the gaskets fail at the precup location.
I would be making them give me different heads. FTS.
 
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