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2013 Escalade ESV w/ SLP TVS2300

The oil pressure sensor went bad. I spent over an hour trying to remove it. I had an OPS socket that I had already done some trimming on so I could reach the sensor under the intake on a 6.5…… so I kept trimming it and trimming it until it would clear the supercharger’s intake and slide onto the sensor. By the time it would finally slide on, it didn’t have enough meat to grip the sensor. Neat. Ended up I had to remove the supercharger just to change the sensor.

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While it was off, I thought it was interesting what the ports on the supercharger were shaped like. The ports in the heads are rectangles. You can see the witness lines from the gasket.

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To live up to that plate you'll need a 6-71...
I was originally going to just build the engine so it took full advantage of what the 2300 is capable of, but now I'm planning on having the LSA supercharger I have ported. I should still be able to achieve 700 horse at the wheels.
 
The driver quarter panel is getting some rust coming through from the inside (the Rust Belt strikes again!!) so I get to do some rust repair on this vehicle sooner rather than later. I looked into buying a whole quarter panel from GM for $800+ and having that replaced professionally, but decided I didn’t want to go that route right now. Plus doing the job myself I can make sure the interior of the panels are prepped to help prevent future rust. I thought about doing the whole quarter myself, but I’m not sure I want to tackle that right now either. I have experience doing patch panels successfully, so that plan made more sense to me for this. They make a patch panel for the dog leg, but not for the wheel arch and under the gas door where I have other problems…..at least not that I’ve found. Regardless, aftermarket patch panels are so-so as far as fitment goes, so OEM metal would be best. A couple weeks ago when I was at the junkyard I noticed a Suburban that had a clean quarter panel. I had this week off of work so I went to the junkyard to cut it off. It only took about 1.5 hours, which I didn’t think was too bad considering I took everything apart properly and didn’t just rip/cut the interior parts out of the way. I can’t wait to start this rust repair……not, YUCK.

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Nate,

I assume you went with a battery operated sawzall to do this? Reason I am asking is that I have a 5-inch by 3-inch section of rot on my passenger rear wheel arch (basically top center). I see aftermarket panels for $80, but contemplating on JY hacking a panel like you did (much smaller scale though). Trying to plan for what tools to bring as I've never really done things over unbolting at the JY. I't says I cant bring a grinder, cut off wheel, or torch.
 
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