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2013 Escalade ESV w/ SLP TVS2300

n8in8or

I never met a project I didn’t like
Messages
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Kalamazoo, MI
This is more of a “new vehicle” thread than a project thread, though I’m sure I will be doing some things to it in the future, so I thought I’d start a thread to document what I do to it.

Getting this truck was not really in the plan, though it has been a bit of a dream vehicle for me for years. In additions to that, for a little over a year I’ve been slowly piecing together an LSA supercharger kit for my Envoy. Earlier this year I started to wonder if I should instead get an 07-14 Escalade to LSA swap because it would give me some extra room, a nice interior and it would already have the 6L80 that I want as part of the swap, plus I’ve always liked these Escalades. I weighed my options and decided to just stay the course of doing the Envoy conversion…..I even recently got a 6L80 core to build for it. Well a little over a week ago, my brother sends me an ad for a 2013 Cadillac Escalade ESV Platinum with an SLP supercharger on it. It was a beautiful truck with a supercharger even bigger than the LSA charger (this one is 2300cc versus the 1900cc LSA) on it already and the price wasn’t too bad. I couldn’t get it out of my mind. So I did some financial planning and talking to the credit union and came to the conclusion that I could make it work. It was at a dealership in Wisconsin, 3.5 hours away from me. I didn’t have any concrete plans last Saturday so I went to look at it.

The interior was in great shape. I had never touched an Escalade with the Platinum interior before and I fell in love with it - it’s like the nicest leather jacket I’ve ever touched, much different than typical automotive grade leather upholstery. It drove really nice - so much more comfortable than the Envoy, which I’ve definitely diminished the ride quality of with the lowering suspension bits and poly bushings. I was afraid the ESV version would be too big (the ESV is the Suburban-sized Escalade, as opposed to the Tahoe-sized one), but it really wasn’t that bad. It wasn’t what I would call “fast” due to the weight of this truck, but it’s adequate…..and the speed is also deceptive because it’s so quiet inside while accelerating, though you do get a little supercharger whine when you’re on the throttle, which is super cool. While it was in really nice shape overall, it did have a little rust starting on the driver side quarter that would need to be addressed before it got bad and the frame coating was flaking off and there was a solid coating of rust on the frame, which could also be addressed.

Since this was such a rushed thing, and there were other people looking at it as well which diminished my bargaining capabilities, I passed on purchasing it. But I kept my eye on it…. I also convinced myself in the meantime that I could buy it, and if I didn’t like it (either due to the size of it or the cost of it) that I could remove the supercharger and sell the truck NA for close to what I could buy it for, so that felt like a risk reduction and a bit of a justification. It still hadn’t sold by Wednesday evening, so I called to try to make a deal. We ended up at a price just above what I told myself was my max, but it was still $1000 off asking, so I said “ok”.

A friend of mine (a very good friend of mine) drove me the 3.5 hours there yesterday to pick it up. I’m really loving it so far! The power curve is really interesting. I think it’s tuned to deliver the power gradually so it won’t hurt the drivetrain or the engine itself since it’s just a bolt-on kit that doesn’t require regapping the rings or doing any drivetrain upgrades. The kit supposedly takes the factory output of 403hp and bumps it up to 525hp……sometimes when I get on it I believe it, other times it feels overrated, but I haven’t really driven it enough to fully shake it down yet.

I’ve found a couple things to fix/upgrade in the near future, but first I need to replenish my bank account and also keep chugging along on the Frankensquare project, which still needs a bit of financial investment as well.

As far as the Envoy goes, the initial plan was to sell it to help offset the cost of the Escalade……however, I’m also weighing the idea of continuing with the LSA swap, but do it in a cheaper fashion since it won’t be a daily driver any longer - I can make it a toy that can be my LS project outlet, and not make bad decisions with the Escalade. Not sure what the direction will be yet.

Here are a couple pics I took when I got it home.

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I tried parking it in the garage. I knew it was just a touch long with everything as-is, but it is super close. I already need to replace the garage door, so I’m going to change the framing up so the door sits out a little further, which should buy me the extra couple inches I need. In the meantime, I’ll park it in the barn so it’s out of the weather.

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Nice looking ride. They are a nice to drive for sure.
I would recommend just enjoying the cruise of it for now, knocking out other projects and take time to decide on the improvements. Mind you, this from the guy who is still looking for a 59 caddy with great body and interior to rip off the frame and drop on an lmm running chassis… because I need that project to go with my hummer and 43 Willy’s.
 
On our trip to the coast, friends that went with us had borrowed their brother's burb to drive out there. I'm not sure what year it was but it had to be at least a 2010. it had all the bells and whistles, back door was motorized, had LOTS of room, two tv's, even air conditioned seats!! I got to drive it while we were down there and it was nice and had a smooth ride. if I ever have the chance and money I would want one like it but in a diesel variety.
 
Did a couple things this evening.

Removed the front license plate bracket. We’re fortunate in Michigan to not need one of those.

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Installed the Banks iDash I had in the Envoy so I could monitor things.

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I checked the coolant level in the intercooler reservoir and it was empty. Hmm. I turned the ignition switch on and the pump wasn’t running. More hmmm. I found the fuse for the pump and it was removed. I installed a fuse and the pump ran fine. Even more hmmmm. I put a cooling system pressure tester on the reservoir and found a hose connection leaking on it. I replaced the hose clamp with a new one and tried again - no leaks. I put some distilled water in the system and once again installed the fuse. That should help power.

Once that was done I took a drive to see what the iDash read. At first it was reading 2.9 pounds of boost, but eventually it dropped a little….not sure why, regardless, it’s not a lot of boost, but it moves out ok so I’ll leave it this way for a while so it’s reliable. I think I’ll put a new belt on for both reliability and see if maybe I’m getting some belt slip.

15-75 pull


0-60 pull

 
Follow up to earlier posts. I have done some more investigating and have found that the truck has the wrong MAP sensor on it - it has the stock 1 Bar MAP sensor and not the correct 1 Bar sensor that the supercharger kit would have come with. After doing a datalog, it also looks like it has the stock Escalade fuel injectors in it and not the LSA injectors that it should have. It's also dropping to 40psi of fuel pressure from the correct 58psi when I do a full throttle pull. So based on all of that I am working on fuel system upgrades so it doesn't go lean and hurt itself. I have ordered almost all of the parts except for the larger injectors. I am going way oversize on everything so it's able to handle future upgrades - buy once, cry once.

More to come on that.
 
Not exactly related to this project, but it was part of the reason for this, so I'll include it here......

Our garage door has been needing to be replaced for a few years as it was about 15% rotten wood at this point. It also didn't help that I accidentally backed into it earlier this summer, so definitely time for replacement. The garage has always been kind of tricky to use because the door was offset in the garage by about 2 feet, which made the left stall a little bit more of an ordeal to get into - something I've always dealt with fine, but now not really a possibility with the land yacht that the Escalade ESV is. To further reduce interior space, the garage is constructed of cinder blocks, so more of the footprint is consumed by the thickness of the blocks and then the wood cladding that is added for mounting the door. I did some looking at the construction and came to the conclusion that with some new framing I could gain about 5" of interior space if I was thoughtful with my framing. I made my plans, bought the materials and got started.

Here's the before pic. Note how the door is offset. You can also see where the retaining wall was before based on the angled line of the siding on the left. I believe this is why the door was offset - the PO didn't want to excavate any more dirt, so he just decided to offset the door when installing it on this side of the garage (the door was actually on the other side of the garage originally, but then the driveway location was moved when an addition was added to the house in the 80s).

Garage 01.jpg

Night one was removing the gutter and the vinyl siding.

Garage 02.jpg

Day two was removing the door and the original framing, plus removing the cinder blocks that needed to go. The dude used all the nails he could find when nailing the header together.

Garage 03.jpgGarage 04.jpgGarage 05.jpgGarage 06.jpg

He also used railroad track parts at the end of the steel I-beam where he embedded them into the block wall. Who was this guy, Casey Jones???

Garage 07.jpgGarage 08.jpg

The opening was a full 20' wide once I got it all demolished.

Garage 09.jpgGarage 10.jpg
 
The fancy interim door I installed the two nights before I had a door installed.

Garage 11.jpg

The end of day 3 I had the door opening self-supporting again (the two supports that are visible aren't functioning at this point - I just hadn't removed them yet.....in fact they were floating 1/4" off the floor, so the framing was working well). I reused the I beam that was over the opening before, but I cut off the railroad track parts and welded some rectangular tubing to the end to extend it just a little bit for a little more support.

Garage 13.jpgGarage 12.jpg

At the end of day 4 I had more of the wall work done and the door panels held in place by nails. A lot of day 5 was spent installing the door....it took longer than I anticipated and even then, it wasn't working to my satisfaction - it still needed some adjustment.

Garage 14.jpg

Day 6 was spent adjusting the door and then installing trim around the door and edging the siding. Day 7 I finished adding siding trim, then I removed the vinyl siding from the back wall of the garage to use on the front of the garage - I wasn't sure I'd be able to match the siding perfectly, so I decided it made sense to use the existing siding so the pattern would be the same and hopefully had the same amount of fading as the rest of the siding on the house. At this point the project was to a point of being functional, I just had to reinstall the gutter and finish some plywood sheathing on the inside as well as finish up some electrical routing.

Garage 15.jpg

Day 7 was cleaning up all of the debris from the project and then doing some cleaning/organizing in the garage so vehicles could be parked again. I still have all of the tools in there so I can complete the last tasks this coming weekend, but even so, the vehicles both still fit. Sweet success.

Garage 16.jpg

And I have about 5" to spare with the door closed, so I guess the extra work I put in with the new framing paid off.

Garage 17.jpg
 
Oh and I forgot to mention that I have also prepaid for a year of remote tuning from a reputable tuner. After the fuel system I will be building a performance 6L80 for this, then make some intercooler upgrades and then do some pulley changes…..so it will be important to get multiple tunes done in the future. I guess I put this truck in the right section of the forum after all…..
 
I forgot to post the winter wheels and tires I picked up. I wanted to go with 20s for the winter instead of the factory 22s so I would have a little more protection from curbs and such hidden under the snow. I first found some 275/55/20 Blizzaks on Marketplace for $300 earlier this year and then some chrome 6 lug 20s for $200 shortly after. They are fine, but I don’t love the look. I also want a bit more sidewall still, so before next winter I’m going to look for some 18” factory Escalade wheels and another set of Blizzaks. IMG_8457.jpeg
 
Last week the power fold function quit working on the driver side rear view mirror (here we go…..luxury options that stop working…..). I did some searching and it’s common for the plastic gears in the mirror to break. I found a place that makes replacement gears that are steel and they also come with a new motor……perfect, these parts will cover either thing that failed.


Last night I opened up the mirror to begin the repair and found a different problem - a broken wire right at the motor connector.

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I cut back the insulation to expose some of the terminal.

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I first tried soldering the wire to the side of the terminal stub, but I wasn’t confident it would last very long so I desoldered that repair. Instead I cut the plastic insulation off a butt connector and crimped one end to the stub and then crimped the wire in the other end. After that I covered the repair with heat shrink.

I apparently got so excited about my repair that I forgot to take a picture of the result.

I ended up not replacing the motor and gears at this time - I also found some broken tabs on the chrome mirror housing piece, so I’m going to find another one of those as well as a replacement harness and refurbish the entire mirror at a later date.
 
I forgot to post the winter wheels and tires I picked up. I wanted to go with 20s for the winter instead of the factory 22s so I would have a little more protection from curbs and such hidden under the snow. I first found some 275/55/20 Blizzaks on Marketplace for $300 earlier this year and then some chrome 6 lug 20s for $200 shortly after. They are fine, but I don’t love the look. I also want a bit more sidewall still, so before next winter I’m going to look for some 18” factory Escalade wheels and another set of Blizzaks. View attachment 85323

Very nice indeed. I have had great luck with the Blizzaks on snow and ice. I have an extra set of wheels with Blizzaks for my 2006 Chevy 2500HD and an extra set of steel wheels with Blizzaks for my beater 2002, S-10. I just put the Blizzaks on the S-10 the other day and will run them until about the end of March. Right now I have the Michelin LTX tires on the 2500HD, probably won't put the Blizzaks on it unless I need it a bunch. In the winter I pretty well drive the S-10 in the snow and ice, it's got rust on it, plus it has 163,000 some odd miles on it. If I crash something, better the S-10 than the 2500HD.
 
Very nice indeed. I have had great luck with the Blizzaks on snow and ice. I have an extra set of wheels with Blizzaks for my 2006 Chevy 2500HD and an extra set of steel wheels with Blizzaks for my beater 2002, S-10. I just put the Blizzaks on the S-10 the other day and will run them until about the end of March. Right now I have the Michelin LTX tires on the 2500HD, probably won't put the Blizzaks on it unless I need it a bunch. In the winter I pretty well drive the S-10 in the snow and ice, it's got rust on it, plus it has 163,000 some odd miles on it. If I crash something, better the S-10 than the 2500HD.
We’ve been running Blizzaks for almost 10 years now. Without them, Kelli’s Impala couldn’t make it up the driveway sometimes, now she never struggles…..which makes me feel better when she’s out driving in the winter weather. I’ve had them on the Envoy for the last 3 winters and they made a big difference on that. I had General Altimax Arctics on my Subaru and Tahoe and was pretty happy with those as well.
 
We’ve been running Blizzaks for almost 10 years now. Without them, Kelli’s Impala couldn’t make it up the driveway sometimes, now she never struggles…..which makes me feel better when she’s out driving in the winter weather. I’ve had them on the Envoy for the last 3 winters and they made a big difference on that. I had General Altimax Arctics on my Subaru and Tahoe and was pretty happy with those as well.

Yelp I'm sold on the Blizzaks, I have actually backed up snow covered driveways without spinning, trying them out. They help a bunch about stopping, the front tires don't slide as much. They seem to be made of a soft rubber compound, which I'm sure helps with traction, plus being directional. When they wear out I will buy 4 more for my beater truck. The beater truck has the DM-V2 s on it and the ones for my 2500HD are the W965 s.
 
Yelp I'm sold on the Blizzaks, I have actually backed up snow covered driveways without spinning, trying them out. They help a bunch about stopping, the front tires don't slide as much. They seem to be made of a soft rubber compound, which I'm sure helps with traction, plus being directional. When they wear out I will buy 4 more for my beater truck. The beater truck has the DM-V2 s on it and the ones for my 2500HD are the W965 s.
I didn’t realize they had a new truck tire, I thought it was just DM-V2s.
 
Did not see this thread when it started.

Rig looks nice! :)

Just a couple thoughts from the gallery.

If the Caddy still has its AFM active, look for a way to disable. Simply cannot see how AFM causing the engine to consume extra oil as it ages is a good thing for the engine or environment.

At this age and not knowing when the blower was installed (along with other commentary about what was not exactly done correctly), I'd consider prioritizing a lube change.
 
Did not see this thread when it started.

Rig looks nice! :)

Just a couple thoughts from the gallery.

If the Caddy still has its AFM active, look for a way to disable. Simply cannot see how AFM causing the engine to consume extra oil as it ages is a good thing for the engine or environment.

At this age and not knowing when the blower was installed (along with other commentary about what was not exactly done correctly), I'd consider prioritizing a lube change.
Thanks! I’m REALLY enjoying driving it.

The AFM is already disabled thankfully. I am currently collecting parts to build a whole new engine because I want to take advantage of what the supercharger can do and I hear about 6.2s cracking liners too often to make me feel good - plus this one has some piston slap that I can’t stand listening to.

Good call on the lube change.
 
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