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1990 F350 4x4 7.3 IDI

IMG_0892.JPG since you have a vacuum pump and gauges then it would be worth investing in a micron gauge like this. Especially if you have to do a couple vehicles. Pull it down to 500 microns and you've got a real good dry vacuum. I paid about $100 at the local HVAC parts house the last time I bought one.
 

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Jaryd said:
View attachment 50370 since you have a vacuum pump and gauges then it would be worth investing in a micron gauge like this. Especially if you have to do a couple vehicles. Pull it down to 500 microns and you've got a real good dry vacuum. I paid about $100 at the local HVAC parts house the last time I bought one.
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Ok cool, I'll probably have to invest in one of those.
 
It was fantastical, and I think it was only around $6! My brother picked it up for me and I think it was maybe in a Sorenson box? I did a quick search on Amazon and I didn't find the exact tool, but I did find a 5-piece set for multiple sizes of loom. I may have to pick this up.....

5 Piece Wire Loom Cable Insertion Tool Set for 3/8" to 2" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OKXP0C6/?tag=jhdiesel-20
 
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79jasper said:
Never seen that convulted tubing tool.
Might have to get one. I know a lot of the loom on our new suburban is gone.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
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1994ch said:
That looks a whole lot better than wearing a sore spot on a finger sliding it down the loom!
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I meant to quote you guys in my previous reply so you'd be tagged.
 
Well, as one would expect there wasn't any vacuum left in the system, so when I picked up the new condensor I also ordered a new accumulator. Next step I will install the new condenser and check for leaks - if no leaks, then the new accumulator will be going in, along with some more oil and dye since I had poured some oil in the other accumulator before.
 
Replaced the condenser tonight and the system has been holding 30 inches of vacuum for 2 hours, so yay!! So tomorrow I'll swap the accumulator and vacuum the system for a couple hours again and if there's time still I'll charge the system.

Another cool thing happened today, too - they powdercoated the wheels for the truck for me. Time for new tires soon. IMG_9114.JPG
 
Air conditioning works! I don't have a thermometer to stick in the vent so I used an IR gun. I'm not sure I believe the reading, but it was definitely cool air coming out that made the cab chilly so I'm satisfied. Tomorrow will be devoted to picking up all of the tools and parts around the truck so the final stage of the project can be started: body work. IMG_9137.JPG
 
Oh, there was one complication: when I removed the hose from the low side port the shrader valve started leaking!! I hadn't leak-checked with the gauges removed. So I swapped that and luckily fast enough so all the refrigerant didn't leave the system, which would have forced me to vacuum all over again....so just a top off of refrigerant and it was good to go again.

On a positive note: all of the dash controls for the system work properly, so that's good.
 
Finally got it unburied - it sure is easy to put a lot of junk on a flatbed over the course of working on it for 3 months!!

I still have a bit more cleaning to do in the barn, but it's getting there.

I took a couple pics of it after driving around the yard and driveway a bit. It's sitting on 215s in the back and 235s in the front right now. Even so, the front end sits a little low relative to the rear for my tastes. Eventually I'll do a reverse shackle lift on the front so that should take care of that - I may even have to lift the rear just a touch to compensate....

So far the brakes feel GREAT though the real test will be out on the road.

IMG_9140.JPG IMG_9142.JPG IMG_9143.JPG
 
Most of Sunday was spent finishing cleaning/organizing the barn. What a mess I had made!! I did get a little more on the truck done: I got the mirrors, inner door panels and lock cylinders off the doors. I need to remove the window channels to get the outer doorhandles off so I'll do that later - I want to get most of the sanding done with the windows in so I can keep the lion's share of the dust out of the interior and not get masking filthy.

Tonight I got the visor and the clearance lights removed and one fender DA'd with 80 grit. I'll go back later with a finer grit. IMG_9149.JPGIMG_9150.JPG
 
A little bit of a redirect: I had decided a week or two ago that if I was going to be painting the cab and doghouse I should also try to clean up the rest of the outside of the truck. And as I was looking at the truck I realized I should paint that stuff first since I could clean up the overspray on the body with the DA when I'm prepping for paint. So last night I wire wheeled the front bumper and the edges of the bed and then tonight I wiped them down with xylene and spray bombed them with Rustoleum. I decided on Rustoleum because I wanted something pretty durable and also something readily available so I could easily do future touch-ups since I plan on USING this truck. It ended up taking 3 cans of primer and over 5 cans of Black. It definitely looks nicer now and once the body is one color and the shiny black wheels are in it, it should look pretty nice. Tomorrow I will be back to DA work. IMG_9177.JPGIMG_9178.JPGIMG_9179.JPG
 
ak diesel driver said:
Did you use the rusty metal primer? I really like it and use it alot. Seems to take awhile to harden up though.
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Yep, I used the rusty metal red oxide primer. I've used it before, but not in such volume or on such a highly visible application, so I'm hoping it holds up relatively well.
 
I've found that it scratches pretty easy but it seems to really help with rust. I don't think it's as good as the old fish oil formula but still pretty good
 
Something I recently learned a out primer... difference of a primer and paint is primers leave tons of microscopic holes through it, and layers like a honeycomb. The key desired point of primer is to bond the top layer paint through the primer and to the base material. That's how it bonds the paint better than not having primer.

Unfortunately I learned this because we would primer stuff, and the primer didn't seem to withstand the sun or something and wear out allowing rust to start. Turns out, the rust was starting almost right away underneath the primer and letting it grow through the primer. Since things don't rust quickly here this was a slow lesson learned before I did research to understand what was happening. So when primering anything know that you are. Ot really buying ny time before needing to paint. Oops.

I'm guessing most of you all in the rusty areas knew this, but just incase there is someone in a drier place than me-Idk- Death Valley maybe? haha
 
Will L. said:
Something I recently learned a out primer... difference of a primer and paint is primers leave tons of microscopic holes through it, and layers like a honeycomb. The key desired point of primer is to bond the top layer paint through the primer and to the base material. That's how it bonds the paint better than not having primer.

Unfortunately I learned this because we would primer stuff, and the primer didn't seem to withstand the sun or something and wear out allowing rust to start. Turns out, the rust was starting almost right away underneath the primer and letting it grow through the primer. Since things don't rust quickly here this was a slow lesson learned before I did research to understand what was happening. So when primering anything know that you are. Ot really buying ny time before needing to paint. Oops.

I'm guessing most of you all in the rusty areas knew this, but just incase there is someone in a drier place than me-Idk- Death Valley maybe? haha
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Yup, us in wetter areas of the country have this problem all the time. A primer/sealer will help with the problem and give you a little more time to leave it uncoated, but eventually those too allow rust.

I didn't realize the mechanism of how primers worked, so that's cool info to have, thanks!
 
n8in8or said:
Oh, there was one complication: when I removed the hose from the low side port the shrader valve started leaking!! I hadn't leak-checked with the gauges removed. So I swapped that and luckily fast enough so all the refrigerant didn't leave the system, which would have forced me to vacuum all over again....so just a top off of refrigerant and it was good to go again.

On a positive note: all of the dash controls for the system work properly, so that's good.
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This is common esp in areas that use the AC more. before doing any AC work make sure you have new high and low side
shrader valves on hand. Then when the system is empty change them out. Every single time. Small window of 30 days you might get away with them sealing back up, but, have them on hand. Hotter temps and system operating temps like we get just bake the high side valves down beyond reuse. (The high side sees 160 to nearly 200 degrees, around 450PSI and slightly hotter 500 PSI the relief vents the system.) Any wear debris will cause a leak as well.
 
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