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1990 F350 4x4 7.3 IDI

n8in8or

I never met a project I didn’t like
Messages
4,285
Reaction score
8,286
Location
Kalamazoo, MI
Well, looks like I'm going to be trying my hand at another flavor of IDI diesel! This lump followed me home earlier this week and I can't wait to get it on the road.

I already have a 94 F150 with the 300 six in it. Super reliable truck, very useful, not rusty, just not strong enough for some things I want to do. I have other Ford truck parts so I had thought about beefing it up with a different drivetrain or even dropping the body on another frame, but I just didn't need that kind of a project. This summer I will be removing a retaining wall and pushing the dirt back into a slope, so I will have LOTS of dirt to move. I don't want to rent a dump trailer out of inconvenience and throwing money away on rent. I looked at buying a trailer but dang they're expensive! So then I thought about replacing the F150 with a 1-ton 4x4 dumptruck. I found one nearby, an 86 F350 with a noisy 460 needing repair, but they wanted too much money. As I was waiting for the price to go down I remembered insurance.....I had a 1990 F350 stake truck already. After owning it a couple years, Progressive noticed it was a cab & chassis, not a pickup, so they decided they didn't want to insure it!! My agent found another company that would but it was going to be stupid expensive - so dumb. Well at that point the truck was getting so rusty that it wasn't worth driving anyway so I just took it off the road. Oh and I didn't use the truck for a business, just a heavy duty truck to haul with or do whatever with for myself. Nice. Thanks insurance.

So anyway...looking at the dumptruck I realized it was a cab and chassis and that I'd have the same insurance problem. So I kept looking. Then I found the rig I ended up bringing home. It was a flatbed, which I reasoned I could turn into a dump bed if I had to, but also in the meantime I could just push the dirt off the side when I move it. Also, judging by the axles it started life as a pickup, not a cab and chassis. So I contacted the owner and they were nice enough to send me the VIN. Sure enough, a pickup!!! So I drove the 2 hour trip with trailer in tow to bring it home. It was everything he said it was, just an honest old work truck - perfect. We came to an agreement and I loaded it up. It was a nearly 3 hour drive home. Yes, the Hoe was technically overloaded, but she's all I had that could manage bringing this huge lump home. Luckily it was only in the upper 40s outside - and that helped keep temps in check with my intercooler currently unhooked. Even so, I still hit 1100* going up one grade. Power was never a problem, but I sure hate my torque converter!! The darn thing is so loose at my power level, it's hard to accelerate unless the clutch is locked, and I have to be careful about the timing of the lock so I don't break something when it engages. Anyway, made it home just a little after 10:00 at night and I was very satisfied. She's gonna be a cool rig I think. I hope to start working on her later this week so she can be my new second vehicle and I can sell the F150 to recoup the cost.

Short term plans:

Fix the mushy brakes. For some reason these F350s have weird brakes. I finally got the ones in my stake truck feeling ok before I took it off the road so I'll swap the oversize master cylinder from that to the flatbed. Then a good once-over of everything else. Probably needs the drum brakes adjusted too.

Fix the starter. He pull started it to show me how it runs, but the starter won't turn it over. He said the truck had been sitting a while and when he went to start it, it wouldn't do it. I found some loose connections, but the starter still just clunks. He said it was a newer starter from Oreilly. It is visually. But I have read that these IDIs have aftermarket starter problems, just like the GM diesels. So I already bought a Powermaster starter to go on it. That will fix it.

I want to fix the AC because it's nice to have that when you're working.

There will be other odds and ends to take care of to make it something reliable and nice to drive, but not much overall. The frame and all of the mounts are rock-solid and that is the important part. There's even paint on the frame still, which is unheard of for older trucks up here. I'll post as I get things done. Some day it will be a tough mother that will be a truck capable of doing any heavy work I want to do. Future upgrades will be: turbo, bigger IP, intercooler, and other upgrades, who knows what all. Should be fun!!

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Here's some paperwork that came with the truck when he bought it. Someone put a lot of work into this thing in the past. Plus the guy I bought it from said he did injectors, front brakes and tie rods. I bought the truck for $2300. I feel like I did alright!51260457592__6BC3186D-0226-4CB7-A44B-044CE34CE172.JPGIMG_8109.JPG
 
Yeah, and I think the long blocks are more durable than our GM IDIs.

I deny your reality and substitute my own.

It should be a good truck if you can deal with the little details of the Fords from the era. Brakes, steering, and suspension ride are all a unique feel to them. They are reliable, the oil pressure/ fuel system is wacky but works ok.
 
Yeah, and I think the long blocks are more durable than our GM IDIs.

The original GM blocks are weaker than ford idi blocks but the Ford blocks do have a cavitation problem. Also Navistar doesn't cast new Ford idi blocks.

Navistar does cast 6.5 blocks and they are better than the Ford idi blocks
 
I deny your reality and substitute my own.

It should be a good truck if you can deal with the little details of the Fords from the era. Brakes, steering, and suspension ride are all a unique feel to them. They are reliable, the oil pressure/ fuel system is wacky but works ok.

My stake truck had the same Dana 60 straight axle front as this flat bed has and I always liked how it drove. Now my F150 with it's TTB is always an adventure to drive. This flat bed does seem to be a bit stiffer in the front than my stake truck so I may do a spring swap to see if that helps. I also am figuring on doing a shackle reversal on the front to address the weird shackle situation they have on these in the front. Yeah the brakes are weird on the one tons that I don't get. The brakes are awesome on my F150 so it's always been puzzling to me. I got them pretty good on the stake truck so I should be able to get this flat bed figured out too, with some work.

The original GM blocks are weaker than ford idi blocks but the Ford blocks do have a cavitation problem. Also Navistar doesn't cast new Ford idi blocks.

Navistar does cast 6.5 blocks and they are better than the Ford idi blocks

Yeah I've heard about the cavitation issue, but the cracks that the GM blocks and heads get always worries me. I was surprised to hear when 6.5L said his Optimizer heads had cracks. That makes me worry about my Optimizer. He had block cracks too, but his block had some abuse so that isn't a definitive failure in my mind. The guy that owns R&D IDI has pushed a stock bottom end 7.3 to 400+ whp and 800 wtq and I'm not sure I'd try that with my Optimizer.....but then again....;)
 
I'd use a p400 if I wanted to be crazy.

The Optimizer in Morgan's truck saw more boost than alot of 400hp trucks, I think cylinder pressure is to blame there.
 
I deny your reality and substitute my own.

It should be a good truck if you can deal with the little details of the Fords from the era. Brakes, steering, and suspension ride are all a unique feel to them. They are reliable, the oil pressure/ fuel system is wacky but works ok.
I think you're thinking of the powerstroke with heui injection. The idi's used a db4 injection pump similiar to the db2 that the 6.2/6.5 used(turns the opposite direction, and is a 4 piston instead of 2, capable of alot more fuel). My uncle still has a 92, and at 1 time I knew quite a few people with them. I know glow plugs and the glow plug system is fairly problematic. It uses 6 volt glow plugs and a big resistor to drop the voltage down. When a glow plug goes out, it increases the voltage to the other plugs, and also leads to extended glow times since it doesn't have as much load on the timer circuit leading to exploded glow plug tips. You can swap in a set of 60g glow plugs and go with a solenoid and manually activate them, or add in a timer to run them(or you could probably use a 92-93 6.5l glow plug relay setup). I know the stanadyne injectors are a long skinny design, and seemed to give alot more trouble than GM's did at higher miles, but if you change them out when you're supposed to, they're fine. Most everybody I know with them had starter troubles. So the powermaster should take care of that. The only real complaint my uncle had with his 92 was stock it didn't have a turbo. At 5K ft of elevation he said it became gutless and you just drove it by the amount of smoke coming out the tail pipe. He added in a banks turbo and took care of that. I do know if the starter doesn't kick it over fast enough, forget getting one to start. My neighbor had to use a rag soaked in gas if he let his sit parked for more than a week.

As to the brakes, I think a good hydro-boost setup would take care of alot of the problems. They used a pretty small vacuum pump that doesn't turn that fast, and there was no reservoir for it. You get one decent application, then you gotta wait awhile for vacuum to rebuild. Dodge had the same problem up to around 96-97 when they finally started going to hydro-boost systems, then there brakes got ALOT better.
 
Yeah, I was thinking the heui on the oil/ fuel thing.

Kinda grouped a whole series of engine years together I guess.
 
There is a 1988 crew cab long bed down the road with a Banks turbo on it. Went to start it one day and the engine cylinders were full of water from cavitation. (Neglect.) Replaced the engine $$$$ and years later the top of the radiator cracked and leaked while pulling a 5th wheel up the known 6.5 killer hill. The owner proved IDI rings are just a prone to heat damage as our 6.x engines as he has a lot of blowby sudden like because he didn't get his foot out of it for high ECT. Nevermind he was going 6.5 slow at 33 MPH or so flat out. Truck has 1/2 million miles on it.
 
Very cool old truck. I'm a fan of the IDI and 90's Ford Trucks.

I'm just starting to learn about the IDI, but I think it's going to be fun to try out. And for some reason I've always had a soft spot for the 80-96 Fords even though my first truck was a 70 C10. Maybe it's because of the phenomenon that Bigfoot was when I was kid? Not sure, but I like them.

Can't wait to see what you do to this one Nate. Tuff looking bumper on that thing to.

Thanks Jaryd. Yeah, I love that big ugly bumper on the front of it. I think it will get some more bars added to it though, just in case I have to drive through a wall or something :D. I just saw an Australian truck online that had one of their kangaroo stopper bumpers and it looked really sweet.

There is a 1988 crew cab long bed down the road with a Banks turbo on it. Went to start it one day and the engine cylinders were full of water from cavitation. (Neglect.) Replaced the engine $$$$ and years later the top of the radiator cracked and leaked while pulling a 5th wheel up the known 6.5 killer hill. The owner proved IDI rings are just a prone to heat damage as our 6.x engines as he has a lot of blowby sudden like because he didn't get his foot out of it for high ECT. Nevermind he was going 6.5 slow at 33 MPH or so flat out. Truck has 1/2 million miles on it.

Dude, are you contagious? Even your neighbors majorly break stuff!? :p

I do need to learn more about the cavitation problem and how to prevent it. I'll be draining and replacing the coolant in the truck first thing though because I know that's part of the prevention - making sure you have good coolant with good....or not depleted....SCAs. Anything else you know?
 
I think you're thinking of the powerstroke with heui injection. The idi's used a db4 injection pump similiar to the db2 that the 6.2/6.5 used(turns the opposite direction, and is a 4 piston instead of 2, capable of alot more fuel). My uncle still has a 92, and at 1 time I knew quite a few people with them. I know glow plugs and the glow plug system is fairly problematic. It uses 6 volt glow plugs and a big resistor to drop the voltage down. When a glow plug goes out, it increases the voltage to the other plugs, and also leads to extended glow times since it doesn't have as much load on the timer circuit leading to exploded glow plug tips. You can swap in a set of 60g glow plugs and go with a solenoid and manually activate them, or add in a timer to run them(or you could probably use a 92-93 6.5l glow plug relay setup). I know the stanadyne injectors are a long skinny design, and seemed to give alot more trouble than GM's did at higher miles, but if you change them out when you're supposed to, they're fine. Most everybody I know with them had starter troubles. So the powermaster should take care of that. The only real complaint my uncle had with his 92 was stock it didn't have a turbo. At 5K ft of elevation he said it became gutless and you just drove it by the amount of smoke coming out the tail pipe. He added in a banks turbo and took care of that. I do know if the starter doesn't kick it over fast enough, forget getting one to start. My neighbor had to use a rag soaked in gas if he let his sit parked for more than a week.

As to the brakes, I think a good hydro-boost setup would take care of alot of the problems. They used a pretty small vacuum pump that doesn't turn that fast, and there was no reservoir for it. You get one decent application, then you gotta wait awhile for vacuum to rebuild. Dodge had the same problem up to around 96-97 when they finally started going to hydro-boost systems, then there brakes got ALOT better.
Hydro-boost, that's a good idea. I'll have to research that. Thanks for the idea.
 
It's alive! I got the Powermaster starter installed today. I also put new cable ends on most of the battery cables. This thing has 2/0 battery cables from the factory! I took a video of the first start with the new starter and cable ends. It cranked slower than I expected and took longer to start than I would have hoped so I'll have to look into that.....EXCEPT after starting it I noticed that I had left one of the grounds off the battery - so it had started on just one battery! Oops, and yet pretty cool too. Of course it was about 80* outside, so that had to of helped. I'll see how it starts on two batteries cold and decide if I need to start looking for air leaks or glow plug problems.


I started it again a couple times after a short drive up the road just to hear the starter. Love that Powermaster power. Again that was with just one battery.


I ended the day starting to do a 3G alternator conversion to get rid of the external regulator alternator on the truck. It boggles my mind that Ford was still using external regulators into the 90s. The alternator I'm putting on is the one that I had already swapped onto my 90 460 before. It's a small case alternator, so not my first choice, but it will be better than what was there before. I'll find a better alternator to swap later - I may even spend thw cabbage to get a Powermaster alternator, we'll see. Gotta get some other stuff taken care of first before I do that.
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I will give Ford credit FOR using an external regulator and keeping the trons that matter out of the heat vs. the noisy piece of s#it firecracker CS-130 GM gave us on everything in the same era. I am sure I wasn't the only one to use anti seize on alternator bolts due to how often I had to swap them out.

I can do without V belts... :p
 
I will give Ford credit FOR using an external regulator and keeping the trons that matter out of the heat vs. the noisy piece of s#it firecracker CS-130 GM gave us on everything in the same era. I am sure I wasn't the only one to use anti seize on alternator bolts due to how often I had to swap them out.

I can do without V belts... :p
Good point about the external regulator. It just seems so antiquated and unrefined I guess. But now that I'm typing that.....why would that bother me????
 
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