3500GMC
What T F, over
The cam sounds pretty aggressive anyway, not much vacuum to play with?
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
1989 Mustang LX 302 To 351W Swap
- Thread starter DieselSlug
- Start date
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Here is some info on the cam. Actually it isnt that agressive surprisingly, a lot of people use it the gt-40 heads. Till have pretty good vacuum too! My compression is only 8.8:1
TFS-51402000
Valve Setting Intake: .000 in.
Valve Setting Exhaust: .000 in.
Advertised Duration (Degrees): 275 intake/279 exhaust
Duration at .050 in. Lift (Degrees): 221 intake/225 exhaust
Camshaft Lift: .312 in. intake/.319 in. exhaust
Valve Lift with 1.6 Rocker Arms: .499 in. intake/.510 in. exhaust
Lobe Separation (Degrees): 112
Intake Cam Timing at .050 in. Valve Lift:
Opens 3 degrees BTDC
Closes 38 degrees ABDC
Max lift: 108 degrees ATDC
Exhaust Cam Timing at .050 in. Valve Lift:
Opens 49 degrees BBDC
Closes 4 degrees BTDC
Max lift: 116 degrees BTDC
Firing Order: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Characteristics: Good idle, strong mid-range power. Aftermarket intake, heads, and headers recommended. Requires modified Mass Airflow sensor. Best with 9:1-10.5:1 compression ratio.
TFS-51402000
Valve Setting Intake: .000 in.
Valve Setting Exhaust: .000 in.
Advertised Duration (Degrees): 275 intake/279 exhaust
Duration at .050 in. Lift (Degrees): 221 intake/225 exhaust
Camshaft Lift: .312 in. intake/.319 in. exhaust
Valve Lift with 1.6 Rocker Arms: .499 in. intake/.510 in. exhaust
Lobe Separation (Degrees): 112
Intake Cam Timing at .050 in. Valve Lift:
Opens 3 degrees BTDC
Closes 38 degrees ABDC
Max lift: 108 degrees ATDC
Exhaust Cam Timing at .050 in. Valve Lift:
Opens 49 degrees BBDC
Closes 4 degrees BTDC
Max lift: 116 degrees BTDC
Firing Order: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Characteristics: Good idle, strong mid-range power. Aftermarket intake, heads, and headers recommended. Requires modified Mass Airflow sensor. Best with 9:1-10.5:1 compression ratio.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Well i replaced the IAC and followed the directions for a base idle reset. The car is A LOT better now. Idle is not "hunting" as much, and its smoother to drive at cruise/easy driving speeds. BUT, its not perfect. Still has a few moments where it is not perfectly smooth, and its a little surgy at cruise. Looking into other fixes...
I went out on my lunch break and tinkered with the car a bit. I lowered the idle via set screw. I did not do the base idle reset again today though. (not enough time to wait for battery unhooking n' such) I checked my cracked hose to the charcoal canister. I pulled the hose off the intake and plugged the intake with a cap. Made no change.
I went to my kirben fuel regulator next and pulled the vacuum line and plugged it. My gauge read 40psi with no vacuum. I raised the fuel pressure to 42psi w/out vacuum an went for a drive. The car actually felt better at light accel/cruise! It now feels more like surging, not as much of the bucking. So for now i'm going to leave the pressure there for a day or so. Im possibly contemplating on going up some more to see if it totally cures the issue? Seems as if the vacuum at idle drops the psi by about 4.
While out on the drive when i came to stops and let off the gas the rpms would bounce a little bit and then finally settle down to a better idle. It did this at every light, and also stalled once when i pulled back into work. But its now idling a lot lower than it was before, still not quite as low as id like but better.
I went out on my lunch break and tinkered with the car a bit. I lowered the idle via set screw. I did not do the base idle reset again today though. (not enough time to wait for battery unhooking n' such) I checked my cracked hose to the charcoal canister. I pulled the hose off the intake and plugged the intake with a cap. Made no change.
I went to my kirben fuel regulator next and pulled the vacuum line and plugged it. My gauge read 40psi with no vacuum. I raised the fuel pressure to 42psi w/out vacuum an went for a drive. The car actually felt better at light accel/cruise! It now feels more like surging, not as much of the bucking. So for now i'm going to leave the pressure there for a day or so. Im possibly contemplating on going up some more to see if it totally cures the issue? Seems as if the vacuum at idle drops the psi by about 4.
While out on the drive when i came to stops and let off the gas the rpms would bounce a little bit and then finally settle down to a better idle. It did this at every light, and also stalled once when i pulled back into work. But its now idling a lot lower than it was before, still not quite as low as id like but better.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Figured id bring this thread back to life. A lot has changed since I left off, so here we go.
I drove the car for about 6 months just like I left off. We got the lope figured out for the most part and it was fairly smooth. Had a few issues with the car clearance wise, the lower mounts posed a new issue with the front sway bar:
I started taking the car to Watkins Glen Road Course and racing it. Very quickly the car began to loose compression in a cylinder and began puking smoke on hard acceleration and de-acceleration in gear.
Watkins Glen Picture:
I decided to pull the engine out once again. This time, for a bottom end refresh. Here is where it spiraled out of control. I began to pull the engine in my Dads garage to send to a buddys uncle for the refresh. Found out my spacer was cracked in multiple spots! This piece was torqued to factory specs.
I drove the car for about 6 months just like I left off. We got the lope figured out for the most part and it was fairly smooth. Had a few issues with the car clearance wise, the lower mounts posed a new issue with the front sway bar:
I started taking the car to Watkins Glen Road Course and racing it. Very quickly the car began to loose compression in a cylinder and began puking smoke on hard acceleration and de-acceleration in gear.
Watkins Glen Picture:
I decided to pull the engine out once again. This time, for a bottom end refresh. Here is where it spiraled out of control. I began to pull the engine in my Dads garage to send to a buddys uncle for the refresh. Found out my spacer was cracked in multiple spots! This piece was torqued to factory specs.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Continuing on the motor came back out easily:
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Purchased new Prothane motor mounts that are supposed to be taller than the convertible motor mounts i had in the car. I will now need a taller cowl, but i can remove my spacers that i put on the sway bar mounts as a temporary fix.
Pulled the heads back off to check the slugs. Cross hatching is still there! I hoped i could get away with a hone at this point.
Pulled the heads back off to check the slugs. Cross hatching is still there! I hoped i could get away with a hone at this point.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
I found one of my drive-ability issues with the car after i pulled the heads off. Apparently the spark plugs I used were stock replacement plugs, for Iron heads. These aluminum heads are thicker, thus requiring longer spark plugs. See how the tip isn't really in the cylinder at all.
Got a sweet deal on a Fenix radiator, so i purchased it:
Got a sweet deal on a Fenix radiator, so i purchased it:
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Got the engine on my little skid ready to go to the builders:
Performed a quick fix on my console arm rest instead of buying a new one, worked out great! The grey was peeling around the edges, so i re-attached with epoxy.
Also started some custom work on the console, I dont smoke so there is no need for an ash tray. Removed and picked up a couple cup holders from a Ford Freestyle in the junkyard. Im going to graft them in.
Performed a quick fix on my console arm rest instead of buying a new one, worked out great! The grey was peeling around the edges, so i re-attached with epoxy.
Also started some custom work on the console, I dont smoke so there is no need for an ash tray. Removed and picked up a couple cup holders from a Ford Freestyle in the junkyard. Im going to graft them in.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
I also figured now was the time to upgrade injectors and MAF. I was running 24's which were maxed out. Found a good deal on some Ford Lightning OEM green tops. IIRC these are 43 LBS. Also purchased a rebuild kit.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
By this time I was having major issues with the engine builder. He was missing completion dates and he had possession of the engine for 4 months now. Ended up doing a bore of 0.030 over, installed new Hyper pistons, bearings, rebuilt the heads, new EFI Cobra valve covers and ordered a custom Bullet Cam for the setup. I finally received the engine at midnight on a Wednesday giving him the ultimatum. I ended up paying approximately $2,400 for all the work and parts. We parted ways on very rough terms.
I was looking over the engine after i re-took possession. The valve-train geometry was way off. Pigeon-toed rockers that required adjustable guide plates. The engine was also filthy.
Began to pull the rockers off to install adjustable plates and found out the poly lock shoulders were also resting on the rockers! I now needed new longer poly locks.
Old non adjustable push-rod guides:
At this point I was also directed to get new rocker studs as mine were of cheap "chinese" quality, so I ordered ARP's.
New DSS polylocks VS. ARP poly locks:
I was looking over the engine after i re-took possession. The valve-train geometry was way off. Pigeon-toed rockers that required adjustable guide plates. The engine was also filthy.
Began to pull the rockers off to install adjustable plates and found out the poly lock shoulders were also resting on the rockers! I now needed new longer poly locks.
Old non adjustable push-rod guides:
At this point I was also directed to get new rocker studs as mine were of cheap "chinese" quality, so I ordered ARP's.
New DSS polylocks VS. ARP poly locks:
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
I marked up the HB this time with a paint pen to aid in timing of the car, last time was a bear to see the marks.
And this is where the engine currently sits at:
It is in my dads basement, my Fiance and i have bought our first house and we moved the Fox roller into our basement. I was informed that this car must be ready for our Wedding in October of 2016. So here goes the next round of the project!
And this is where the engine currently sits at:
It is in my dads basement, my Fiance and i have bought our first house and we moved the Fox roller into our basement. I was informed that this car must be ready for our Wedding in October of 2016. So here goes the next round of the project!
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Our new house is a raised ranch built in 1941. It has short basement ceilings, but is warm in the winter! We started some home improvements that would help with the completion of the car:
Here are the very steep stairs coming down from the kitchen (Before):
We removed the door, and relocated it:
New stairs!
Puppy contemplating on trying them out:
Old door re-installed and old opening framed and rocked:
Pulled out a ton of cloth wiring and ran some new 12 with the installation of 4' tubes for added light!
Going to build a work bench under the stairs next, so we added a 2' tube under there:
Here are the very steep stairs coming down from the kitchen (Before):
We removed the door, and relocated it:
New stairs!
Puppy contemplating on trying them out:
Old door re-installed and old opening framed and rocked:
Pulled out a ton of cloth wiring and ran some new 12 with the installation of 4' tubes for added light!
Going to build a work bench under the stairs next, so we added a 2' tube under there:
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
This brings everything up to date. I am trying to find a way to get my engine out of my dads basement and bring it over to our new house. We now have over 5'' of fresh snow and temps have been in the single digits.
Hang on!
Hang on!
btfarm
America First!
Good progress Mike!
NVW
Well-Known Member
Looks to be taking shape, needing it for the wedding should pull out all stops
I had a dog that wouldn't go up or down more than a few steps if they had no risers. He was afraid of heights and nothing else. lol
I had a dog that wouldn't go up or down more than a few steps if they had no risers. He was afraid of heights and nothing else. lol
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Got the next part in today. ARP Rocker studs. Since my head were Pro-Comps (Chinese garbage) I was urged to replace the OEM Pro-Comp hardware on them, this is the last part of the puzzle parts wise that will allow me to button up the top end.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Still working in the basement!
Started out with 1 coat of Minwax Poly, but it smelled-up the whole house so bad for days! So went back out and got some ZAR Ultra Max, man this stuff hardly has an odor. I hope it holds up to the job of greasy car parts and tools.
This was the first bench we built. About 8' long, by 4' wide on casters.
These next two are going to be installed underneath the new stairs permanently attached to the wall. The upper top is shorter than the lower tier to maximize use of space under the stairs.
Started out with 1 coat of Minwax Poly, but it smelled-up the whole house so bad for days! So went back out and got some ZAR Ultra Max, man this stuff hardly has an odor. I hope it holds up to the job of greasy car parts and tools.
This was the first bench we built. About 8' long, by 4' wide on casters.
These next two are going to be installed underneath the new stairs permanently attached to the wall. The upper top is shorter than the lower tier to maximize use of space under the stairs.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Got the poly'd table tops installed under the stairs. On the lookout for a piece of plywood to put inder the stair treds to prevent debris from falling off the treads onto the workbench.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Finally got the engine home! Of course picked one of the crappiest nights to do it too.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
More progress. We tore down the top end of the engine the other day to inspect some of the builders work.
I was a little concerned with the sloppy silicone job. By then there was already some rust forming in the upper valley of the engine. This scared me big time, the engine has sat for about 1.5 years in my dads basement and I was worried there may be rust in the cylinders. Luckily this wasn't the case.
Cleaned up all the top end components.
[
Picked up my Dad's big Milwaukee drill for eventual priming, and his tap and die set to chase all the threads out in the block and heads. Plan to work on it a little more tonight. I found out last time I built this engine i used the wrong spark plugs. They were too short not reaching all the way into the cylinder. So I need to get some Autolite 3924's to correct this. I'm also going to pickup some new fel pro 9333pt1 head gaskets.
I was a little concerned with the sloppy silicone job. By then there was already some rust forming in the upper valley of the engine. This scared me big time, the engine has sat for about 1.5 years in my dads basement and I was worried there may be rust in the cylinders. Luckily this wasn't the case.
Cleaned up all the top end components.
[
Picked up my Dad's big Milwaukee drill for eventual priming, and his tap and die set to chase all the threads out in the block and heads. Plan to work on it a little more tonight. I found out last time I built this engine i used the wrong spark plugs. They were too short not reaching all the way into the cylinder. So I need to get some Autolite 3924's to correct this. I'm also going to pickup some new fel pro 9333pt1 head gaskets.