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1969 IH 1300D 4X4 - Pump Truck

Got a bit done over lunch!:
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One thing I now realize is that the axle shaft oil seal must be inward towards the carrier? I really think I should replace these but am a bit hesitant on removing the gearset. I have never messed with that before. Lots of clean up will take place Monday but I ran out of time today.
 
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I'd sure want to replace those seals while you're in there. But yeah, you may struggle with removing the carrier because you probably need a case spreader to get it back in.
 
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If it has a preload on the bearings that's about the only way to get it right. Fair amount of trial and error. Theoretically you can find zero and then add the correct amount of shim to it. In your case should be already set so maybe you can fight it out and back in.
 
Interesting device. I will have to do some Youtubing on it. Monday the plan is to clean up all the grease from the passenger side components. Then I will have to remove the drivers side stuff to get the carrier out. Was hoping to leave the drivers intact as a full reference just in case my pictures were lacking.
 
Another lunch update.

Clean Ball:
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Beginning cleaning the socket:
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Upper bushing & lower bearing:
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Some wear on the upper bushing:
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Clean axleshaft, really contemplating u-joint replacement as they are in excellent shape:
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Spicer joint:
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Started chiseling the bulk crud off the knuckle. More tomorrow. Also removed the brake line supports following this picture. I cant find any black beneath the red on the drivetrain. Really confusing me.20191111_161529.jpg
 
Wanted to get some feedback on sand blasting drivetrain parts. My company has an old industrial blasting pot with black media inside currently. Was told this is the way to remove debris and rust from parts.

I'm sure you all know a 50 year old vehicle has debris caked on the drivetrain like concrete. I have to chisel and then wire wheel. Will the sand blaster handle this?
 
My plan was not to recollect and do the blasting outdoors. With the debris on these parts the contamination will be extreme. If I go this route I will have to make sure I go over everything with shop air and then a wipe down with some solvents. Still on the fence if its worth it dragging out the big pot, reviving it (since it was last used 5 years ago) and buying media at $50/50lb sack.
 
A little progress done today.

Some chiseling and soaking of connection points:
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Just some documentation of steering components:
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New rubber required on both sides:
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Spotted a little more rust:
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Backing plate and spindle removed:
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Begin jackhammering:
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I am all for getting down to metal, I hate working on things full of garbage. If you have the time, worth the effort imo.
Definitely have to seal everything up. The $30 portable harbor freight plastic pot is even useful.
A quality leaf blower is helpful in clean up afterwards. Then a pressure washer, the sand will find nooks that the water will get out.
Only thing worse than road dirt in the eye working under a truck is silica sand in the eye...
I use swimming goggles when pressure washing under a rig. Keep a pair in my tool cart for regular repairs if needed too.

You have to repaint everything when done so plan that out too.
 
Will L. said:
I am all for getting down to metal, I hate working on things full of garbage. If you have the time, worth the effort imo.
Definitely have to seal everything up. The $30 portable harbor freight plastic pot is even useful.
A quality leaf blower is helpful in clean up afterwards. Then a pressure washer, the sand will find nooks that the water will get out.
Only thing worse than road dirt in the eye working under a truck is silica sand in the eye...
I use swimming goggles when pressure washing under a rig. Keep a pair in my tool cart for regular repairs if needed too.

You have to repaint everything when done so plan that out too.
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Good points. Still on the fence if I am going repaint these parts IH red or convert to rustoleum black. Looking for a semi-gloss or satin finish. I wont be able to get that with the IH red, plus I prefer black running gear (red just looks like a quick shot paint job from Earl Scheib).

The current technique of chiseling and wire wheeling/flap disc-ing is working well, just very time consuming. See drum pics earlier.
 
Pressure wash, if your going to blast TSC / RURAL KING and others have Black Diamond It will clean fast wont last as long as the $50 stuff and you will lose some. The best part it's $ 7 / 50lb I think it is Coal.
 
Got a tiny bit done first thing today.

Removing the cotter-pin tiny chunk-by-chunk as it was seized in the orifice:
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Tie rod assembly removed and orientation noted:
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Boot is shot:
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Removal of remaining castle nut for steering:
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Bound the steering up so everything can go back right in the same place:
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