Did you even check the other things? Sounds like your throwing parts at it.
Already did all of that about 1.5 months ago. Clear line, fuel pressure gauge, lead to my son replacing lift pump and OPS. We know the PMD is good as it's be tested on mine and vice versa. It's not air in the fuel system. Ran great for a month, then this stalling with codes. When I saw the crank reference code, I ordered the CPS. It's behaving like the CPS experiences I've had before. $43 is no big deal and my time is very limited.Did you even check the other things? Sounds like your throwing parts at it.
What does the OS test prove? How do I unplug that without removing the intake? If I’m removing the intake, I’m replacing the IP.If your time is limited than do the OS and CPS tests
For $43 a new CPS will tell whether it's the CPS. If not then it's the OS and we're looking at a new IP, for which we just pull it off the other engine.It will tell you if it's really the CPS or the OS. The code is a somewhat generic code for timing. It could be either. And you should be able to unplug either with out pulling the intake.
I've seen where a guy placed a steel bar with a hole in it across the CPS and used a bolt to pull it out. Sorta like a puller.May as well order the timekeeper to replace the chain and have it on hand when you change the CPS.
Some CPS sensor's don't exactly come out without a fight. First thing is anything you can grip on the old sensor comes off with a brittle plastic "SNAP!" sound followed by blue smoke. Then you drill it and attempt to remove it with a bolt run into it, more blue smoke when the bolt comes free with the CPS still stuck. Finally you remove the entire timing cover and press it out after drilling it clean through to weaken it.