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Ds4 fitting for fuel pressure gauge

iirc this fitting requires a male 6an to #4 male boss fitting to thread into the larger IP nut that is a filter screen. Then on the end of your fuel inlet hose will need the female 6an to barb to connect it all together.
 
OEM IP Inlet 7/16 ORB to 1/4" Barb and the aftermarket with the -6 AN.
IMG_2647.jpg

IP Fitting to -6AN Push Lock example.
IMG_2648.jpg


Realizing this thread was pretty much all about a fitting for a cleaner Fuel Pressure gauge set up, here's a couple of under $15 solutions for those using a Leroy type FTB kit using brass "T" blocks and 3/8" barbs.

1/4 NPT "T" fitting, 1/4" NPT - 3/8 barbs and a 1/4 - 1/8" NPT adaptor for the fuel pressure gauge sender (two shown for clarity).
IMG_2650.jpg

OR, 1/8" NPT "T" and 1/8" - 3/8" barbs which saves having to use the neckdown adaptors for the fuel pressure gauge sender.
IMG_2651.jpg

Caution, while the threaded end of the barb is 3/8" I.D., the barbed end on some will neck down. Easily drilled out I'm sure.
IMG_2652.jpg
 
That inline fitting that @Will L. is talking about will fit in between the two in the second pic above. but it will make everything taller. you will also need to build a riser to lift the FFM up so the fuel hose can run over the top of the intake and have clearance to connect to the FFM, not unless you relocate the FFM over to the fender. iirc Leroy sells a harness extension to relocate the FFM. That's what I have on my 93 other than I don't have the fitting tee on the IP. I have the brass one like pictured above that is inline on the hose as the hose leaves the engine and routes up on the firewall, the gauge is near the GP solenoid.
 
I'm just presenting options. How one makes things work is up to the individual. I mean, I guess one could try to stuff the T and the sender under the intake but, not recommended. Heat, clearances, access in the future etc. makes going under bad idea in my book.
Earlier, I'd remoted my FFM to the fender area. Didn't like the raised option via extended threaded rods as I'd seen other's do. I'd replaced the heating element and the replacement came with about 3-4 feet of wire. Figured it was a good time to try relocation. Fender was alright but, I went for home made bracket over the power steering pump.
1777945337549.jpeg
However, once the Air Dog set up went in, the FFM was out.
 
Paveltolz said:
I'm just presenting options. How one makes things work is up to the individual. I mean, I guess one could try to stuff the T and the sender under the intake but, not recommended. Heat, clearances, access in the future etc. makes going under bad idea in my book.
Earlier, I'd remoted my FFM to the fender area. Didn't like the raised option via extended threaded rods as I'd seen other's do. I'd replaced the heating element and the replacement came with about 3-4 feet of wire. Figured it was a good time to try relocation. Fender was alright but, I went for home made bracket over the power steering pump.
View attachment 99358
However, once the Air Dog set up went in, the FFM was out.
Click to expand...
Nice!

Yeah I wasn't thrilled about having those hoses under the intake ether!
 
I built a bracket that bolts to the FFM manifold mountings, and, also turned the Feed the Beast FFM 90* with the outlet ports facing towards the left side fender.
Now the hoses are run over the top of the intake manifold.
I also installed the Air Dog lift pump but kept the FFM intact.
I had the sender unit mounted on the AN fitting adapter but after having to pull the intake manifold three times to replace tge faulty glow shift sending unit I screwed a barb hose fitting into the AN adapter and remote mounted the sending unit to a more accessible location.
I know some say to not mount the sender to a hose but I was tired of pulling the IM to get to it.
IDK if other gauge company sending units is more dependable than the GS units but seems this is what I soent my money for and they have warranty replaced them on an as needed basis so guess this is what I’ll be running. I did buy a spare sending unit but since I did that this last warranty unit has not yet failed in a lot of miles.
Just be sure to buy a snubber to install between the T fitting and the sending unit.
Maybe thats why this sending unit has not failed, the hose might be absorbing some of the shock waves of the gear rotor pump.
 
Given the function of the Air Dog II-5G and 4G series pumps removes air as well as water and gunk, the water and gunk being retained in the filters where the air with excess fuel is returned from the pump to the tank under pressure via a 3/8" hose. Delivering what is similar to the foam we see while filling up, above the tank to then flow down the fuel filler neck and settle vs. blowing bubbles up in the fuel at the bottom of the tank in close proximity to the pick-up tube being preferred is probably one side of their thinking.

Cutting a small section out of the rubber fuel filler neck pipe vs. the smaller diameter steel fuel line being considered safer, easier and less prone to "installer error" may be another (plus blowing bubbles in the fuel next to the pickup....).
 
The T fitting for the fuel pressure gauge- you don’t want any rubber line after that T. That becomes a frequent failure point and you THINK everything is ok, however a restriction in the line occurs there. There was a “tool” at the dealership that was part of a fuel pressure test kit that would fit between the two items in 2nd picture like Mentioned, but it had a hose and a mechanical gauge that we would go out the back of the hood and trap against the windshield with the windshield wiper to see while driving. You are best to read the gauge as close to the ip as possible.

DO NOT USE ANY RED METALS in the fuel system. Brass, bronze or copper. You get a very nasty reaction with both bio fuels and with ethanol.

You had a picture of a 1/4” nipple in there- no, don’t use that. 5/16 line is the original- 3/8” is better. The only 1/4” is the ip output return line.
 
Will L. said:
You had a picture of a 1/4” nipple in there- no, don’t use that. 5/16 line is the original- 3/8” is better. The only 1/4” is the ip output return line.
Click to expand...

Uh, no. Both are 3/8" barbed nipples. Perhaps a bit of optical illusion gifted by the camera angle magnifying the differences in the orifices.

Here they are nose to nose which should clear things up just a bit.
1778034178136.jpeg
And, a 7/32 drill bit passes easily through the narrower one (right side of the picture). Obviously the same drill bit passes easier through the one on the left.
Both were sold at Home Depot as 3/8" barbs. One threaded for 1/4" NPT (left), the other one (right) is 1/8" NPT.
This discrepancy in marketing is why I pointed out the differences in the first place and included a warning. For the record, WRT my comment about drilling out the smaller one; I don't think it a good idea nor recommend it.
 
Ok, I see now. Huge difference in flow from one brand to the next.

My world is the DB2- so just a street T with the side tap in 1/8” is easy.

The best fittings I have seen for the ds4 tapping the fuel gauge is found doing search on places like Summit racing- I couldn’t get link to copy right. So cooy & paste this description in the link:
Fitting, Fuel Pressure Take Off, Adapter, -6 AN Female to -6 AN Male, 1/8 in. NPT Gauge Port,

The only thing I don’t like about most of these AN fittings is they are aluminum. In racing, ounces matter. In a DD truck, especially a diesel- I rather see steel version of it.


IMG_5614.png
 
Will L. said:
Ok, I see now. Huge difference in flow from one brand to the next.

My world is the DB2- so just a street T with the side tap in 1/8” is easy.

The best fittings I have seen for the ds4 tapping the fuel gauge is found doing search on places like Summit racing- I couldn’t get link to copy right. So cooy & paste this description in the link:
Fitting, Fuel Pressure Take Off, Adapter, -6 AN Female to -6 AN Male, 1/8 in. NPT Gauge Port,

The only thing I don’t like about most of these AN fittings is they are aluminum. In racing, ounces matter. In a DD truck, especially a diesel- I rather see steel version of it.


View attachment 99368
Click to expand...
I think there is steel versions of the 6AN fittings but they dont have the 1/8th” tap.
I think the the swivel fittings were in stock at our local ACE hardware store and I thought about buying one of those then drilling and tapping in the port.
I bought the cheaper aluminum version already tapped and though it feels a bit flimsy it has survived numerous times of being installed, removed and reinstalled and it still functions just fine.
 
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