Recent content by Gekkoen

I was going to replace the upper ball joint on my Tahoe and found the new one to be quite different. On the new one the bolt flange is angled and the stud has a larger taper and threads compared to the old one. The new one is a mevotech mk6344, the old is a moog problem solver that I don't...

got the calpers ready, but i need to take the rotors with me to work and chuck them up and skim them in a lathe because one of them had some grooves in it. The thickness on the thinnest bit is 32.4mm and minimum is 30.80. what's left of the pads, just in time, less than 2mm on the inside one...

I ended up ordering Raybestos calipers with pads, they were cleared through customs yesterday so hopefully i can pick them up on friday. hopefully the rotors aren't too bad as i replaced them in 2014, but we'll see when i take them off.

I need to replace the calipers in the front of my tahoe since they are not retracting from the rotor and wearing out the inside pad. I've been looking on rockauto and it's all remanufactured calipers as i can see, so my question is which manufacturer is the best to buy?

wouldn't think the air filter is plugged yet since it's only 5 mo. since i replaced it. but it won't hurt to change it out anyway, just to see if it helps. i put in about 0.5 liters of two stroke oil for every 40-80 liters of diesel, while i don't note any difference in economy it does seem to...

i have noticed lately that my fuel economy isn't as good as it used to be, and it seems to smoke black more than it used to at medium acceleration. sometimes at hot idle it has a slight random clacking. i'm thinking new injectors would help somewhat,? any thoughts on these issues?

i managed to break the guide thing on the trans end of the shift cable when doing a fluid and filter change, don't ask how, i probably stared at it too hard ;) is there a writeup on this somewhere? if not, any tips for doing this. is there any adjustment needed after replacing the cable is it...

That was what I was thinking as well. I'm going to try to use the cooler end of the stock lines as a template for bending lines the same length to get away from the cooler and rad, and then use hose from that point and back to the block ports.

you got me thinking with the lines rubbing there, i have a set of oil cooler lines with bad hoses, and i have access to pipe bending machines at work so maybe i can bend new stainless pipes from the cooler and past the rad. and hoses from there and back to the ports in the block. I'm probably...

I'm planning on doing the oil cooler hoses soon and i'm getting proper high-temp hydraulic hoses with pressed ends from work. first thing is Diameter, should i go with 12mm (1/2" )or 16mm (5/8") i.d.? my engine is a '97 and the stock fittings in the block look pretty big. second is how much...

In the book i borrowed it said bolts 9, 11, 13 and 15 are exposed to the crankcase and therefore needs sealant. i did put sealant on them, even though i didn't see any on them when i pulled them out.

The lift pump gets power from the Ops when oil pressure comes up after cranking for a bit. My tahoe had a defective lift pump relay when I got it and the pump would still run when the engine was running.

I haven't had any issues with the Glowshift gauges i have in my Tahoe. although i might have jinxed it by saying this.

this morning when i went out to fire up the Tahoe, turn on the ignition and wait for the glows as usual, when i tried to start it it just cranked and sputtered a little. i turned the key off and back on and it fired up just fine. so i checked the codes and found P0251 IP fuel metering control A...

After a weekend spendt standing on my knees crouched over the engine, I finally have the non egr intake and the ATT installed. It's quite a lot stronger above 2000 rpm now, and it sounds much throatier now than before. There is only one thing I couldn't get done and that was the pcv tube. Does...