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Huge problems :( Engine maybe

Grounds is a good place to start.

The LP is not run by the PCM though. It runs on startup by that relay by the fuse on the firewall then the OPS when running. could be the OPS, how is your oil pressure guage looking? You getting good readings? because it also controls that.

Although if LP stops running you dont get a limp mode, air in the lines will though. did you mess with the filter assembly at all? make sure all those hoses are secured as well.
 
buddy said:
Grounds is a good place to start.

The LP is not run by the PCM though. It runs on startup by that relay by the fuse on the firewall then the OPS when running. could be the OPS, how is your oil pressure guage looking? You getting good readings? because it also controls that.

Although if LP stops running you dont get a limp mode, air in the lines will though. did you mess with the filter assembly at all? make sure all those hoses are secured as well.
Click to expand...


Now, mine being OBD-2 year vehicle, I bleive TD has proven that the Lift pump will still be powered without a workign OPS.

My Oil pressure guage works what appears to be normal, and I replaced that about 2 years ago.

I just went outside (0 df) out atm, crawled under truck and was going to check things out with test light when I noticed the OUTLET side flarenut on the LP was wet.

I gave it a snug and got another safe 1/4 - 1/8th turn on it.

I'm not sure if that is enough of a leak to allow air to get in or not. We will tell.
 
Matt Bachand said:
Now, mine being OBD-2 year vehicle, I bleive TD has proven that the Lift pump will still be powered without a workign OPS.

My Oil pressure guage works what appears to be normal, and I replaced that about 2 years ago.

I just went outside (0 df) out atm, crawled under truck and was going to check things out with test light when I noticed the OUTLET side flarenut on the LP was wet.

I gave it a snug and got another safe 1/4 - 1/8th turn on it.

I'm not sure if that is enough of a leak to allow air to get in or not. We will tell.
Click to expand...

I think you found your problem. Mine was like that when I replaced it with the FRB-5 (don't tell the wife:nono:). It was letting air in enough to cause a stumble at load.
 
Ok, went for a 10 mile test drive, and

NO ENGINE LIGHT
PLENTY OF POWER

It was a great run.

Occasionally/always/sometimes/load/quiet there is a rapping noise, typical engine sound, lifter tap I think.

I understand I just put 1 rebuilt head on an engine w/120k miles on it. Think this is normal? Sometimes it sounds loud, at times its not even present.

IF it wasn't for this tapping sound, the truck felt brand new

I'm sure the rebuilt head has to wear in a little bit, and diesels make things worse when it comes to tappy noises.

One of my buddies says, I don't get these things, (diesels), they always sound broke.
 
The more I think of this. My knock sounds ALOT like when the engine is bone cold w/no plug in (VERY RARE for me) and the cold advance sounds really load.

The same reason why people get scared when they advance thier timing.

So, since I am still in dire suspect of my injectors due to mechanics tampering, and 120k on them.

The excess white smoke defanately sounds injector all the way
The knock/tinny /intermittent sound is probably that injector's cylinder to fire a tad bit early.
 
Same deal as before, Matt... if you loosen an injector line, it will not build up enough pressure to 'pop' ... that cylinder will just be a miss. If the knock disappears when a miss appears, that's the one.

A Tech-II would be easier... turn off one cylinder at a time without touching a wrench...
 
JiFaire said:
Same deal as before, Matt... if you loosen an injector line, it will not build up enough pressure to 'pop' ... that cylinder will just be a miss. If the knock disappears when a miss appears, that's the one.

A Tech-II would be easier... turn off one cylinder at a time without touching a wrench...
Click to expand...

Forgot to tell you it only does the knock when driving, never at idle. So basically only under load, I will try to powerbrake it and see if I can knock, then find out what cylinder! Great advice!

Thank you.
 
Make sure your aluminum coolant line isn't touching an injector line....make sure all injection line clamps are tight....
 
If it's only doing it under load, I doubt you'll find it by powerbraking, Matt... check Chris' advice and make sure nothing it touching and that the lines are snugged-down in their holders.

You might need to find somebody with a tech-II to check that out for ya...
 
I'm not sure if I missed it somewhere but did you pull the piston or just put the head back on ? If the bearing on that cyl was damaged that could be your knock. After 7 hrs I would think any air in fuel would be purged. How's the oil pressure and is knock louder when warm or cold ?
 
Acesneights1 said:
I'm not sure if I missed it somewhere but did you pull the piston or just put the head back on ? If the bearing on that cyl was damaged that could be your knock. After 7 hrs I would think any air in fuel would be purged. How's the oil pressure and is knock louder when warm or cold ?
Click to expand...

Just cleaned up the piston and head rebuilt.

I had no reason to suspect lower end damage, as even when it was running with a valve problem it was not knocking at all, and I could hear the piston making its compression run and squeezing out the valve problem every stroke.

Piston didn't seem too bad at all, afterthought. Still no reason to suspect lower end damage.
 
Update.

Ok. I think I am getting somewhere now.

I actually had 3 individual problems, and This is what I think.

Problem 1. Fuel Delivery problem.

I had a new fuel tank and fsu put in at the garage.

While they had the tank out, I had them change my Rear AUX Lift pump with my old carter I had (works, just changed it as PM with Delco). This LP is In between the front fuel tank (62 inches long), 14 wide, and the frame. Actually, its inside the frame, and the fuel tank is about an inch away, so real PITA to get in there on your back with the tank in the way.

Anyhow, This Aux LP Hasn't run for about a year. Thus, Whatever was in that thank that I wasn't able to pump out in February got stirred up again, as I filled up both tanks to check for leaks.

The guy who changed my fuel tank said I did good by leaving the tank bone dry for him to change. I planned it. Then he said to me, the little bit of fuel that he sucked out got him just far enough to get out of the lift and it died.

WTF, you put that shit back in my tank???????????? I saw the fuel transfer system, and it was what it does, and I hope to god it does some filtering. It had some name like gas buddy or something and that was its purpose. Anyhow....... This pissed me off because I had a 5 gallon thing of fuel and the fuel station on the way closed down and i was in a rush to drop it off for the fuel tank so i didn't go else where.

Problem 2. The day my valves failed I was really pushing the truck up long steep highway grades with my plow on front blocking all sorts of air (9' plow), not to mention making the truck work through the air resistance. As I said, i watch guages carefully, knowing she likes to get warm fast with the plow blocking the airflow. Then Head Failure.

While dealing with the head failure problem, My fuel delivery problem showed its ugly face.

Problem 3.
I have one more injector still in her that the guy who swapped my head felt the need to take apart and tinker with even though I told him not too, before he did a compression test. The other injector was easy to find, it atomized the fuel back into the engine compartment when i cracked it instead of drip, drip, it was Pssst, pssst, perfect cloud of diesel that just vaporized. didn't even get the injector wet.

The other Injector is proving to find itself hard to find. I may just replace the other 4 in suspect, but Napa wants 80 a piece, I'd rather find the bad goose, and replace it for now, as money going all over the place lately.

So, Had to work today, I have all weekend to fix her up.
I need to end this post to save before I begin on a few questions.
 
Ok, Where exactly do I blow low air pressure (3 psi?) back into the tank? Before lift pump? Would blowing it after the LP backwards through the LP to tank hurt the LP?

It would be awesome if I could disconecct the LP outlet, and blow backwards from the t-valve. That would be too easy and probably not work due to the water separater/fuel manager?

Or just the LP inlet to tank?

I was on the highway today, and i could just tell i had no fuel pressure and when I get out and check filter mgr its empty. when truck stops, pressure stops, amnd i think the clog frees up. When i prime it after it stops, it primes fast, and flows hard and strong outta the filter, then it runs great, until eventual clog up, took 20 mins of driving this morning and afternoon until symptoms.

Defanately starving for fuel, and empty at the bowl under effect.
 
Your tank sock may just keep sucking the crap up until the tank is cleaned out. I don't know but to be safe I would blow back between the LP and the tank. Leo
 
Matt Bachand said:
The other Injector is proving to find itself hard to find. I may just replace the other 4 in suspect, but Napa wants 80 a piece, I'd rather find the bad goose, and replace it for now, as money going all over the place lately.
Click to expand...

This would be a PITA but if you believe you only have 1 bad injector. Buy 1 new injector and swap it with each of the injectors you suspect are bad. You've got a 25% chance of hitting the bad one the first time, 33% the second time and 50% the 3rd time and 100% the last time you swap.
 
packratt said:
This would be a PITA but if you believe you only have 1 bad injector. Buy 1 new injector and swap it with each of the injectors you suspect are bad. You've got a 25% chance of hitting the bad one the first time, 33% the second time and 50% the 3rd time and 100% the last time you swap.
Click to expand...

That is going to be the plan. I got an injector installation kit ordered from napa, i assume these are going to be the clampless return lines?

BTW, how much pressure is in the returns? I noticed I have one without a clamp on it on the OTHER SIDE (PS) than my head work was done on. Hasn't popped off (except when I cracked that inj I knocked it off).

I don't mind the injector games at this point, Its the damn return line clips that slow me down to a crawling halt. Its a shame to do all that work and not just change em out with new ones, but I know i can get a set of 8 for around 250, why would I want to get 4 for 320?.. I just don't have time to wait, or money not to wait :)

At least its not the turbo side. Well, if the head was the turbo side, I would have bought new injectors /glows while it was all out anyhow.
 
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