• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Chinese 6.5 block

Turbine Doc said:
Even Bill Heath ran my FTB when he set the record to beat at Bonneville https://www.motortrend.com/reviews/1006dp-500hp-65l-diesel-race-engine
Click to expand...
And frum the website, a copy annda paste wuz nessary. 😹

Fuel Injection System

The limit on power imposed by the 6.5L's comparatively fuel-stingy Stanadyne DS-4 injection pump is a very real one and Heath knew the only hope was to squeeze every last bit of power from what fuel it does provide. The Heath Diesel IDI engine used the off-the-shelf HO Bosch fuel injectors. These were combined with factory high-pressure lines and a new Stanadyne 5521 injection pump. The only modification to the injection pump was the addition of Tim Outland's Feed the Beast fuel inlet fittings. Heath runs an AirDog fuel lift pump adjusted to 7 psi of fuel pressure. The higher engine speed substantially changed the amount of fuel necessary, which began to stretch the limits of the regular heavy-duty lift pump.
 
Out here we used to donit to the db2 & db4 pumps- but also had those horrible square box fuel filters that would often leak. So changing that to a spin on canister that had 1/2” we reduced to 3/8 was common. And it’s just a regular barb fitting for the db pumps so it was easy. Many of the guys did it not for any gains, just so the fuel hose was all the same when we would replace the filter unit to the spin on.
 
Will L. said:
I have an optimizer I bought new and the original plan was run it for 100,000 miles, then rip it all apart and make all the changes. I wish I had just made all the changes when it was brand new. That’s why that has become my new standard, I have seen too many brand new 6.5, including P 400, that have failures in under 100,000 miles. I am of the opinion now that all brand new 6.5s MUST BE disassembled and make the changes required.
Click to expand...
Partially due to your suggestions @Will L. that's where I am now with a completely torn down brand new Optimizer. It's @Twisted Steel Performance shop now for lots of fun ($$$) stuff. I'm 70 now and the truck is 30, with these improvements it should outlive me and still be going strong for my grandson who helping me rebuild the slushbox now whilst we wait for the motor. BTW transmission is from Monster Transmission (not recommended) with less than 3000 miles on it and was slipping in first and reverse when first installed, lots of clutch material in the pan and he said it looks like converter material in the fluid.
 
93detroit said:
Still sitting on it while I finish changes to my pulling tractor. I hope to send the block for machine work (make sure everything is square and in line) next month, and I need to get the pistons first.
Click to expand...
I woonder if line boring would make bearings all one size, most likely not as thats mostly on journal diameters.
 
I've been going over things lately looking more and more into a summer project of attempting a cylinder hone and re-ring job on my 93 to try and save the engine. the more and more I look into it I am seeing the cost factor for what it would accomplish and thinking it's not worth it. if the parts weren't so high in cost I would do it. looks like I would be spending almost 1k in parts to trim the ring ridge, hone the cylinders and replace all the rings, along with all the gaskets timing chain and oil pump. Just to slow down blow-by and be able to trust it for longer trips.

Remembered this thread and thought I would look into usable blocks.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I've been going over things lately looking more and more into a summer project of attempting a cylinder hone and re-ring job on my 93 to try and save the engine. the more and more I look into it I am seeing the cost factor for what it would accomplish and thinking it's not worth it. if the parts weren't so high in cost I would do it. looks like I would be spending almost 1k in parts to trim the ring ridge, hone the cylinders and replace all the rings, along with all the gaskets timing chain and oil pump. Just to slow down blow-by and be able to trust it for longer trips.

Remembered this thread and thought I would look into usable blocks.
Click to expand...
I might have a usable 1999 block, though not a Navistar. I lost the engine at idle speed when I lost a braided stainless oil cooler line. Engine seized but never overheated. I have it in a crate in the garage at our Montana home, but have yet to tear it down for inspection. I know that shipping is profusely expensive. If the heads are good, I promised them to MrMarty.
 
Big T said:
I might have a usable 1999 block, though not a Navistar. I lost the engine at idle speed when I lost a braided stainless oil cooler line. Engine seized but never overheated. I have it in a crate in the garage at our Montana home, but have yet to tear it down for inspection. I know that shipping is profusely expensive. If the heads are good, I promised them to MrMarty.
Click to expand...
I would be interested in that! something that may be rebuild-able or might be able to parts from my engine and make a better running one. question, lets say if seized at the crank, possibly a spun bearing, is a block still usable in cases like that? Idk enough about engines to know what is workable without needing major machine shop work on top of hopes and prayers LOL

I've never "rebuilt" an engine but have watched others do it. Feel like I could do a lot of it other than the actual machine shop work. Mine might be a worthy block to be rebuilt only because I think the reason for all the blow-by is from it eating a couple of GP tips in the past. meaning it would most likely need at least 3 pistons replaced. Just wish a bore scope would fit into the cylinders to confirm this. when I pulled the last set of GPs, the #8 was missing it's tip and it was the only one that was different, the other 7 were or had been replaced. three of the cylinders had really low compression, #8 was one of them. iirc #3, #4, and #8 but I would have to go back and look at what my last reading were. the others were on par with what my 95 has which was right around 300, not great but still good. other than that, that engine runs circles around the 95 with no knocking. my 95 on the other hand has a bottom end knock if you goose it in park that may be telling me the web mains are cracked.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top