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Another 2 door Tahoe for me

Check out headlightrevolution on YouTube they tell you what to look for in an LED. Basically the back to back LEDs need to be as close together as possible to more closely mimic the halogen bulbs. I like LEDs but I didn't want to be one of "those" guys who blind everyone so I did some research.
 
DieselAmateur said:
Do you have to run resistors when using LEDs in the front headlights? The LED tail light kit I purchased several years ago came with them, and I've heard mixed things about whether you can directly swap in an LED for a halogen with regards to headlights. Looks great, thanks for always going the extra mile and sharing your homemade wiring diagrams for us amateurs 🙃
Click to expand...
Resistors aren't needed for LED headlights in most cases. The reason you needed the resistors for your taillights was so the turn signal flasher would function properly, since an LED has a lower resistance value in the circuit than an incandescant bulb does. However, I've heard there are cases in some newer vehicles where resistors are needed due to features such as dead bulb detection.
 
Where is everyone getting the glass lensed headlight housing for these rigs? @n8in8or those housing look like glass but also look factory too! was there an option from GM?

I installed LED's in mine and it was a night and day difference as far as being able to see down the road. but I have never been able to get them to point in the right direction. mine have a tiny set screw that allow me to rotate the LED filament on the base so it will lock into place at different positions. I have played with that but only made the light shining out ether wide or tall. I'm sure it's the square LED's in there as the bulbs I have are two faced having LED's on two sides shining away from each other.
 
I remember being frustrated at the start with the glass lensed headlights I bought.

I get real annoyed when I have to mess with something I just bought to make it work.

Has anybody tried glass lensed headlights for 94 to 99 GMT400's ?

Has anybody tried glass lensed headlights for 94 to 99 GMT400's ? http://www.xtralights.com/88-98chevyck150025003500blazerfullsizetahoesuburbangmcc10pickupsuburbanyukonglasslensesheadlights-chromepair-2
www.thetruckstop.us
 
I had forgotten about that style setup. I wonder if those lights will fit in the grille hole without having to trim it. if that's the case only the headlight buckets would need to be sourced from a salvage yard!
 
I got the wiring on the fuel system wrapped up this evening. The relay system that Jeff had put on the Tahoe worked well, so I was going to reuse it, but I realized it was right where I would be putting the cruise control module when it gets a mechanical conversion in the future, so I decided to do a whole new electrical system on it to go with the rest of it. I made a bracket out of some square tubing I had laying around.

38299911-D622-4FF4-9389-F082FBB7A664.jpeg

I set up the relays the same way Jeff did because it worked really nice being triggered off of both the glow plugs and the oil pressure switch.

D7E51E4D-DD27-4D5C-8470-99272EF3C506.jpeg

Here’s a video of the system being primed for the first time. It builds pressure pretty quickly. It would have done even better if I had known that the batteries were sitting at only about 10 volts…..

 
dbrannon79 said:
Nice work there! that's kinda the way I wired mine too. mine is more crude on the wiring, but it's really nice to have the LP prime the system before cranking :D
Click to expand...
I also added the functionality so the lift pump would run with the glow plugs when I wired the dually…..but for that one, I used just 1 relay and then added diodes to the trigger circuits so they wouldn’t back feed. It isn’t intuitive to me to use the normally-closed terminal on the relay, so I was glad to see how it was used on this truck. I also used that for inspiration for wiring my headlights - when I did the headlights on the dually, I used 2 relays, but I also added a diode for the 4-high mod…..which was an unnecessary component I now see. For the lift pump circuit, I’m not sure which I prefer - 1 relay with diodes or 2 relays, I’ll probably let it marinate until the next truck.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I had forgotten about that style setup. I wonder if those lights will fit in the grille hole without having to trim it. if that's the case only the headlight buckets would need to be sourced from a salvage yard!
Click to expand...
Yes they do.
The grill is trimmed for them.
I salvage yarded the mountings, lights and pigtails from a 1989 and the grill on my 2000 was all cut to fit.
I love the older setup.
The PO of my 2000 had even relayed off the brights to power the dims when brights is illuminated.
 
ak diesel driver said:
Check out headlightrevolution on YouTube they tell you what to look for in an LED. Basically the back to back LEDs need to be as close together as possible to more closely mimic the halogen bulbs. I like LEDs but I didn't want to be one of "those" guys who blind everyone so I did some research.
Click to expand...
Also, if you have separate bulbs for high and low beams like our trucks do you can just buy LED high beams, and leave the lows halogen so you don’t blind people when passing
 
n8in8or said:
I also added the functionality so the lift pump would run with the glow plugs when I wired the dually…..but for that one, I used just 1 relay and then added diodes to the trigger circuits so they wouldn’t back feed. It isn’t intuitive to me to use the normally-closed terminal on the relay, so I was glad to see how it was used on this truck. I also used that for inspiration for wiring my headlights - when I did the headlights on the dually, I used 2 relays, but I also added a diode for the 4-high mod…..which was an unnecessary component I now see. For the lift pump circuit, I’m not sure which I prefer - 1 relay with diodes or 2 relays, I’ll probably let it marinate until the next truck.
Click to expand...
I only used one relay on mine without the diode for the LP. so far I haven't seen any ill effects yet. some 5 pin relays have a built in diode in them, the trick on them is to make sure it's connected in the right direction to use the built in diode. Mine are just normal relays though.

MrMarty51 said:
Yes they do.
The grill is trimmed for them.
I salvage yarded the mountings, lights and pigtails from a 1989 and the grill on my 2000 was all cut to fit.
I love the older setup.
The PO of my 2000 had even relayed off the brights to power the dims when brights is illuminated.
Click to expand...

This will be next on my list of things to look for on my next adventure to the pick a part yards!
 
Last weekend I wrapped up this truck for now - it’s good enough to start driving again.

No pics, but I installed the updated front diff actuator and harness so the 4wd engages faster.

A couple months ago I got a used tire to replace the mismatched one that came on it, so I put the 265/75/16s back on it. They fill the wheelwells much better and looks more like it should.

E9E29284-01A9-4B7D-8791-416F9DC32DF0.jpeg985254C1-A578-424D-8073-0872885E786F.jpeg

I worked on the wastegate vacuum system and even with no vacuum leaks and a new solenoid it still wouldn’t work, so I finally scrapped it and decided to go with a turbomaster. I only had one for the later GM8 style turbo in stock here, and since this will eventually be getting a turbo upgrade I didn’t want to spend money on another turbomaster, so instead I made an arm for the turbo to work with the earlier turbomaster. It maxes out at 7psi, so I think that’s fine.

FC7C057F-D089-4299-9DA3-3C4500135CDF.jpeg

To address the fuel gauge issue, I robbed a fuel gauge motor out of another cluster I had laying around.

6ED60AE7-A0A0-4E97-BCFE-00F9DABBB4E9.jpeg

I have driven it a couple times since getting this stuff wrapped up and I have noticed a couple things…. It still stumbles once when I first get on the road and then again first time I floor it, even if it’s 5 minutes into the drive, so I’m not sure if I’m getting some air intrusion, if there’s still some air in the system being worked out, or if the IP is hurt. I’ll keep monitoring it, but it seems good enough to drive now. I have also noticed that while the fuel gauge is working now, it does have an 1/8 tank twitch, though when I was on the way home from filling up the tank, I noticed it stopped twitching about halfway home, so maybe it’s working itself out? We’ll see.

I’m glad to have it back on the road and be able to work on other projects.
 
@n8in8or I see you got your cluster apart, one of the guys here had wanted some pics of the circuit for the tach. would you take some pics of the circuit and components to share?

Here's his thread.

TACH signal from alternator

my Yucon is 95 so to read the correct RPM i must have diesel pulley on alternator (2-5/8" OD) upgraded my alternator to CS-244, more reable, and works fine from more then 10 years but it cames with gasser pulley, also later diesel alternators 96-99 works with smaller gasser pulley (2-3/8" OD)...
www.thetruckstop.us
 
dbrannon79 said:
@n8in8or I see you got your cluster apart, one of the guys here had wanted some pics of the circuit for the tach. would you take some pics of the circuit and components to share?

Here's his thread.

TACH signal from alternator

my Yucon is 95 so to read the correct RPM i must have diesel pulley on alternator (2-5/8" OD) upgraded my alternator to CS-244, more reable, and works fine from more then 10 years but it cames with gasser pulley, also later diesel alternators 96-99 works with smaller gasser pulley (2-3/8" OD)...
www.thetruckstop.us
Click to expand...
The cluster has been back together for a week now and the parts cluster I used to rob the fuel gauge motor was a gasser cluster so that won’t help him unfortunately.
 
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