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Fuel contamination

I think it’s 1/4” to the hose with the tee and 3/16 from the tee to each wheel cylinder. And 3/16” to both front caliper hoses too. If your installing yourself get you a brake line flaring tool and some nuts for the lines. I can try to look online tomorrow and see if the nut thread is SAE or metric
 
@dbrannon79 Definitely installing my self... Haven't done this before. Cause never new you could but line that was this easy to bend.. I never wanted to screw with doing brake lines cause to expensive if you screw up and pinch one bending.. but these are seriously easy to hand bend...
As for fittings.. I'm going to go buy brake flaring tool in a.m. at AutoZone.. (do I need a specific one). I was told I should reuse the original fittings because we didn't know the exact ones needed and that the one that goes into the abs box is a different kind than others or specialty kind or something.. not sure if that's true or not . If anyone knows the exact sizes and such that I need I would greatly appreciate it ..in that case Id just go buy new ones in the morning for it.
I was reading an article earlier on another forum don't remember which one, that said that if you lose pressure on a line like if it blows you can get air into the abs box and it will continuously act up and can cause the remaining brakes to act up and possibly even lock up .. obviously we know these abs boxes are designed to react to a broken brake line by still allowing the remaining brakes to function.. but that's a safety feature basically designed to let you get the vehicle stopped not to let you keep driving continually..
This is just on side note by the way, because when my truck got messed up those years back, the guy doing the work broke the 3/16 line that went from the t to the wheel cylinder. Because he was working on the brake shoes at the time he just let it drain and figured we would refill it later after we repaired that broken line which turned out to be many hours later. I'm thinking that when he broke the line all the fluid completely came out of the quarter inch line from the ABS to the back and allowed a substantial amount of air to get in the ABS box. Which probably tripped the ABS to go into its basically limp mode allowing the front brakes to still work.. once he repaired the brake line he just dumped fluid in the master cylinder and kept pumping it up until he got fluid to the back like most people would.. I do remember that it was a real pain in the ass to get it to bleed but eventually it did... A lot of work has been done since then but the ABS box has never been messed with.. so I'm wondering if the box is still registering as being in its save the truck mode. And it's intermittently screwing with the front brakes... And causing them to drag occasionally.. again this is just a working theory after I get the brake line repaired I'm taking it to get power bled and have the ABS trip to couple times.. and see if that by chance helps.. you pretty much have to power bleed it anyhow so I don't see the harm in paying the extra 15 bucks to have them do the abs test or whatever it's called to make sure there's no air in it and it is functioning correctly..
 
Stoney said:
@dbrannon79 Definitely installing my self... Haven't done this before. Cause never new you could but line that was this easy to bend.. I never wanted to screw with doing brake lines cause to expensive if you screw up and pinch one bending.. but these are seriously easy to hand bend...
As for fittings.. I'm going to go buy brake flaring tool in a.m. at AutoZone.. (do I need a specific one). I was told I should reuse the original fittings because we didn't know the exact ones needed and that the one that goes into the abs box is a different kind than others or specialty kind or something.. not sure if that's true or not . If anyone knows the exact sizes and such that I need I would greatly appreciate it ..in that case Id just go buy new ones in the morning for it.
I was reading an article earlier on another forum don't remember which one, that said that if you lose pressure on a line like if it blows you can get air into the abs box and it will continuously act up and can cause the remaining brakes to act up and possibly even lock up .. obviously we know these abs boxes are designed to react to a broken brake line by still allowing the remaining brakes to function.. but that's a safety feature basically designed to let you get the vehicle stopped not to let you keep driving continually..
This is just on side note by the way, because when my truck got messed up those years back, the guy doing the work broke the 3/16 line that went from the t to the wheel cylinder. Because he was working on the brake shoes at the time he just let it drain and figured we would refill it later after we repaired that broken line which turned out to be many hours later. I'm thinking that when he broke the line all the fluid completely came out of the quarter inch line from the ABS to the back and allowed a substantial amount of air to get in the ABS box. Which probably tripped the ABS to go into its basically limp mode allowing the front brakes to still work.. once he repaired the brake line he just dumped fluid in the master cylinder and kept pumping it up until he got fluid to the back like most people would.. I do remember that it was a real pain in the ass to get it to bleed but eventually it did... A lot of work has been done since then but the ABS box has never been messed with.. so I'm wondering if the box is still registering as being in its save the truck mode. And it's intermittently screwing with the front brakes... And causing them to drag occasionally.. again this is just a working theory after I get the brake line repaired I'm taking it to get power bled and have the ABS trip to couple times.. and see if that by chance helps.. you pretty much have to power bleed it anyhow so I don't see the harm in paying the extra 15 bucks to have them do the abs test or whatever it's called to make sure there's no air in it and it is functioning correctly..
Click to expand...
If You cut tube and want to flar it for the brake/fuel style fitting, you will need the double flare tool set.
Just be sure to get the clamp tight enough and DO NOT FORGET TO SLIP THE FERREL FITTING ONTO THE TUBE BEFORE CLAMPING THE TUBE. ! ! !
 
if you are able to save the nuts, game on. just make sure that the threads are good and no meat from the threaded hole stayed with the nut threads. I think you should be able to loosen the nuts on the ABS unit without too much trouble, it's the ones on the under side of the truck where the hoses connect and the wheel cylinders / calipers are that I would worry about trying to save without rounding the head or the line being stuck rusted in them.

to keep the air intrusion at a minimum while installing the new lines. get you a gallon of brake fluid and keep the MC full at all times. it will slowly gravity feed while you have things open. get all the lines up and installed to the 4 wheels first and have the bleeders open. wait till you have them all setup and ready to swap over into the ABS box last. as you pull one line off the ABS box at a time. cutting the line and slipping the nut on the new line, flaring and installing. the fluid should just slowly seep out of the ABS box. when you connect the new lines, leaving the bleeders open at the wheels will allow the fluid to start flowing out and eventually you will have the air out while you work on each one.

tools you'll need is a brake line tubing bender for the sharp bends. and a medium can of beans to make the coiled wraps similar to how the factory lines are under the hood. also a double flare tool.

use anti-seize on each nut going in so the next guy working on it will thank you :) and remember tighten them up but not over tight, since this is a softer more malleable than steel line over-tightening them can squash the flare and not seal well.

cleanup is easy, brake fluid dissolves with water. so wash it all down with the garden hose. if you get any fluid on the rear shoes, just use the garden hose sprayer on them and blow off with air.

Your gonna go through a lot of fluid bleeding them so keep that MC full and constantly check it throughout the whole process. once you get all four wheels working, then it's time to power bleed them to get the ABS working. after that, it's the fun part testing the ABS on a gravel patch :D
 
while you are working the rear brakes, you might want to consider installing a new set of parking brake cables too. although you will have to pull the shoes off again to do that. unless you plan to have a shop do that part.

just think, soon you'll be able to do some drifting in your dually haha!
 
dbrannon79 said:
if you are able to save the nuts, game on. just make sure that the threads are good and no meat from the threaded hole stayed with the nut threads. I think you should be able to loosen the nuts on the ABS unit without too much trouble, it's the ones on the under side of the truck where the hoses connect and the wheel cylinders / calipers are that I would worry about trying to save without rounding the head or the line being stuck rusted in them.

to keep the air intrusion at a minimum while installing the new lines. get you a gallon of brake fluid and keep the MC full at all times. it will slowly gravity feed while you have things open. get all the lines up and installed to the 4 wheels first and have the bleeders open. wait till you have them all setup and ready to swap over into the ABS box last. as you pull one line off the ABS box at a time. cutting the line and slipping the nut on the new line, flaring and installing. the fluid should just slowly seep out of the ABS box. when you connect the new lines, leaving the bleeders open at the wheels will allow the fluid to start flowing out and eventually you will have the air out while you work on each one.

tools you'll need is a brake line tubing bender for the sharp bends. and a medium can of beans to make the coiled wraps similar to how the factory lines are under the hood. also a double flare tool.

use anti-seize on each nut going in so the next guy working on it will thank you :) and remember tighten them up but not over tight, since this is a softer more malleable than steel line over-tightening them can squash the flare and not seal well.

cleanup is easy, brake fluid dissolves with water. so wash it all down with the garden hose. if you get any fluid on the rear shoes, just use the garden hose sprayer on them and blow off with air.

Your gonna go through a lot of fluid bleeding them so keep that MC full and constantly check it throughout the whole process. once you get all four wheels working, then it's time to power bleed them to get the ABS working. after that, it's the fun part testing the ABS on a gravel patch :D
Click to expand...
It's easier with 2 people.
 
@dbrannon79 . Drifting....😏😏 Oh you have no idea..😂. When she was still healthy I would power slide her around corners on the back roads doing 60...lol.. nice thing about a dually, wide rear stance makes them really hard to roll,.lol. And Dunkin donuts used to yell at us in winter when we were drifting trucks and cutting donuts in there parking lot after a little snow fell.. they have absolutely no sense of humor...lol 😂
 
Not going to mess with parking brake right now..it's still working good.. I always keep the cable greased.. once it's all working good I'll probably redo the rears and I'll do the cable then... Don't want to sink extra $ into that till I know it's going to work..my thinking is that if I get all the brakes working correctly, and no possible way there causing the problem, them that only leaves the tranny to be causing it I think..and since same problem with 2 different trannys , that would mean it's not internal. Most likely wiring issue or ???
 
Ok guys need some ideas.. I decided to get under the truck and check the tranny plugs.. unplugged them all. That Gooey stuff is everywhere in them. When I pulled the big round grey plug the stuff was hanging off of it like streamers.. I pulled alot off.. but it's up in the actual plug slots where the pins go in. And it's all over the pins to.. also there was tranny fluid in the big round plug and one other. Any ideas as to why fluid would be in them and any ideas how to get that goo out of the slots and off the pins?? Can I spray out the fluid with brake cleaner??
 
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that gooey stuff might be dielectric grease. if that is what is in there, it's to help seal out moisture and prevent corrosion and better contact. if someone smeared regular grease in there, then yes by all means spray away with some brake cleaner and blow out with an air blow jun.

the big round one that has tranny fluid in it has probably got a bad seal since the other side sits in the fluid it's seeping through. you can get a replacement harness with that plug that goes in the trans. you'll have to drop the pan to replace it. I would just clean it out good with brake cleaner for now, smear some fresh dielectric grease in there and see if that helps anything.
 
@dbrannon79 .. it's not dio grease, it's the sticky stuff they put around the outside of the plug to seal it.. you heat with heat gun to get the plugs loose.. but somehow it's in the actual plugs not just around the outside..so I'm thinking it could be causing bad contact in the plugs..gonna try using heat gun to get it to melt out. Don't know if it will work but worth a shot.. was hoping someone would have better idea.. I'll spray the big one with brake cleaner before plugging back in
 
Stoney said:
@dbrannon79 .. it's not dio grease, it's the sticky stuff they put around the outside of the plug to seal it.. you heat with heat gun to get the plugs loose.. but somehow it's in the actual plugs not just around the outside..so I'm thinking it could be causing bad contact in the plugs..gonna try using heat gun to get it to melt out. Don't know if it will work but worth a shot.. was hoping someone would have better idea.. I'll spray the big one with brake cleaner before plugging back in
Click to expand...
I don't use brake clean for that sort of thing. Not all brake clean is on plastic friendly. I got some on my a loom once and watched it shrivel instantaneously.

Not all looms are creat we d equal either.

All I remember is I was on the driver's side front with the front wheel off. It was an OEM loom.

I use CRC Electronic Cleaner.

Be sure to read labels on the products you use
 
I put in all new rear brake lines from ABS back today and new rear brake hose as well..that copper brake line is easy to work with but hard to get a good seal.. after couple attempts I got them all to seal at flanges. (Debating on keeping the brake flare tool I rented at AutoZone)
Tried bleeding them got fluid to the rear no prob. But pedal is still spongie as hell goes almost to the floor.. so I'm thinking I didn't get all the air out of the new master cylinder when I put it on... So gonna pull it off tomorrow and try to bleed it better.. I don't have a vice so going to ratchet strap it to trailer rail..
 
If you have tubes and the plastic fittings for the master for bench bleeding:
Just remove the lines and bleed it in the truck. The screwdriver and vice is faster before it goes on the truck. But will bleed just fine with the pedal. DO NOT start the truck for that part.

Time of removing and reinstalling will be same as using the slow moving pedal.
 
Ok so the fun had begun.
My neighbor has a power bleeder that he let me borrow we went to bleed the back brakes better cuz my pedal was still spongy after fixing everything.. we would bleed it and then pedal would be good for a second and then go right to the floor. We bleed it again and have more air in it.
So checked all the connections they were fine went up to the ABS box. Everything good and snug.
He has the scanner that will trigger an ABS box and scan it. In all reality it will do just about anything to a vehicle wish I knew he had that a long time ago..lol
He cycled and auto bled ABS box multiple times. But it kept getting air.
Come to find out the little valve on the ABS you have one for the front and one for the back they have that little pin in them that pushes in and out.. the one for the front which is the one on top is fine.. the one on the bottom is either missing or broke off way inside the box.. either way it is not there. I can stick a pin a good inch and a half up in that hole and can't even feel it.
It is sucking air through that valve hole. Luckily my brother has a bunch of junk trucks, so I'm going to go salvage a ABS box off of a 2000 cab. Put that on then the neighbors going to bring his box back over to trigger it and scan it
 
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