• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Hayden 2886

P

Potluckslammy

Member
Messages
78
Reaction score
89
Location
Arkansas
Anybody have an actual Hayden 2886 fan clutch laying on the bench and able to take a few decent pics? Just got one in ordered off fleaBay. It's in a box marked "Hayden Automotive 2886"...but damned if it looks anymore robust than the one I had! The cooling fins are actually a tad SHORTER!
 
Reason I asked was because what few small pics I turned up while researching seemed to show larger cooling fins. That, plus there's nothing that says "Hayden" on the actual clutch, nor on the install instructions in the box. Just have a funny feeling, because it's not a stretch to imagine some reboxed Chinese crap coming from fleaBay.
 
I recommend Kennedy’s.

The Kennedy’s I had were haydens that he had them basically over fill the fluid on so they lockup faster and at a higher percentage of lockup.
I called Hayden years ago and asked about it, they said after 3 years, it should be like a new regular one because of the constant loss of fluid that occurs in all viscous clutches.
Hayden recommends new clutch at 5 years.

Hope to get my engine together soon and rig back on the road. After it is, i will push the hmmwv fanclutch mount to spin on after that unless my new wazoo radiator solves the problem 100%. Then I will do bigger turbo next and hmmwv fan clutch afterwards.

Other than that- check out AK Diesel Drivers set up
 
I agree, Kennedy developed what he sells and backs them up.

I haven't seen AK's but believe what he says about it..

I have a all together different animal that I have yet to see anything compare to, but it's not readily available.

Received my new fan system today

This fan system has been developed and custom built by Unique Diesel, it's been a 2 year project that got started when I decided I wanted something better than what was available. I am a "one off" kind of guy, I like thinking out of the box. I knew I wasn't capable of figuring out the electronic...
www.thetruckstop.us
 
Yes, what Twisted Steel has is my dream except for the spin on waterpump. The hmmwv fanclutch is rebuildable with a few basic hand tools and for under $100. The run lifespan they get on hmmwvs is well over 100,000 miles and no “age” issues. Complete controllability, 100% lockup, drool, drool, drool. Haha
 
Will L. said:
I recommend Kennedy’s.

The Kennedy’s I had were haydens that he had them basically over fill the fluid on so they lockup faster and at a higher percentage of lockup.
I called Hayden years ago and asked about it, they said after 3 years, it should be like a new regular one because of the constant loss of fluid that occurs in all viscous clutches.
Hayden recommends new clutch at 5 years.

Hope to get my engine together soon and rig back on the road. After it is, i will push the hmmwv fanclutch mount to spin on after that unless my new wazoo radiator solves the problem 100%. Then I will do bigger turbo next and hmmwv fan clutch afterwards.

Other than that- check out AK Diesel Drivers set up
Click to expand...
I did a post a few years ago on his clutch. It's a standard run of the mill fan clutch, but the engagement shaft is clocked slightly differently, and it uses a custom spring on it.
 
@ THEFERMANATOR

I was talking to a guy at hayden about them making me custom fanclutch. They had 1 guy that deals with all custom requests. At one point HE brought up Kennedy as what I should buy. Told him I used and liked it, but wanted it to go further. He didn’t give me all details, (I wasn’t asking for his magic mix) but told me the biggest impact they did for Kennedy was higher content of fluid. He said there was more to it than that, but didn’t go into details.

In the end, a person needs to drop over 5G to get anything done. And the level I was asking for he said can not be accomplished, and just buying Kennedy’s was the best option.

Clocking it is a trick known by many, undoing the spring was a common trick from the stock car drag races back in the 70’s and I think it carried over from there. I remember reading about “fan clutch mod” and going ‘yeah, I see that...’

The spring- you mean the bi-metal coil in front?
 
Potluckslammy said:
Anybody have an actual Hayden 2886 fan clutch laying on the bench and able to take a few decent pics? Just got one in ordered off fleaBay. It's in a box marked "Hayden Automotive 2886"...but damned if it looks anymore robust than the one I had! The cooling fins are actually a tad SHORTER!
Click to expand...

I posted in your other thread that this needs to be returned for the KD clutch. Now IMO it's because you got a "light duty" rather than a "heavy duty" fan clutch from the cooling fin difference. Maybe even a knock off part labeled to look like a Hayden. From gas engines that have 2 different part numbers with a HD cooling option... You can see the difference and the LD clutch won't last because the HD blade pitch and or fan diameter is different and requires more torque to spin. The LD clutch can't provide this, doesn't have the fins to cool down, and simply overheats and unlocks when you need it the most. (The garbage OEM 6 bolt fan clutch does this even when new. GM improved the fan and clutch with a 4 bolt fan mount later. )

From Hayden's site:

Standard Duty Thermal
Turns fan 60-70% of shaft speed when engaged
Disengage to 20-30% of the shaft speed
Used with lighter pitch fans. (1-1/2” of pitch)
Flat plate impeller design with up to 11.4 Sq. In. of working surface
Identified by a smooth steel faceplate & thermal spring assembly on the front side

Heavy-Duty Thermal
Turns the fan 70-90% of the shaft speed when engaged for increased cooling
Turns the fan 25-35% of the shaft speed when disengaged
Used with deeper pitch fans. (2-1/2” of pitch)
Land and groove design with up to 27 Sq. In. of working surface
Identified by finned aluminum faceplate and thermal spring on the front

Severe Duty Thermal
Turns the fan 80-90% of the shaft speed when engaged
Turns the fan 20-30% of the shaft speed when disengaged
Used with deeper pitch fans. (2-1/2” of pitch)
Land and groove design with up to 72 Sq. In. of working area
Larger working surface provides cooler running and longer life expectancy
Thicker body and deep finned faceplate dissipate more heat
Can be used in place of many heavy-duty clutches

Truck Fan Drives
Turns the fan 80-90% of the shaft speed when engaged
Turns the fan 20-30% of the shaft speed when disengaged
Used with larger fans found on medium-duty truck applications
Land and groove design with up to 150 Sq. In. of working area
Larger working surface provides cooler running and longer life expectancy


| HaydenAuto

www.haydenauto.com www.haydenauto.com
 
Well, here's what I've got:

The supposed Haden 2886 on the left, and a new AC DELCO 15-4691 (GM 15029405) on the right.
 

Attachments

  • P_20190414_135627.jpg
    P_20190414_135627.jpg
    145.1 KB · Views: 15
  • P_20190414_135659.jpg
    P_20190414_135659.jpg
    94.3 KB · Views: 16
  • P_20190414_135710.jpg
    P_20190414_135710.jpg
    126 KB · Views: 16
Yeah, a couple hummer guys and I sent in some new fanclutches for testing. And their advertising of 80-90% is a bs marketing dream. 2 of their own clutches that were never installed neither ever hit 80%. One was 78.5 the other 79.5. They were severe duty. We also sent in a nee Kennedy- it hit 84.3 iirc
The rate of lockup was half of the stock ones. 30 seconds vs a minute.
There were a couple non Hayden clutches tested, similar results compared to advertised levels.

Nothing we all haven’t heard before. They said it’s a peak performance spec, but 25% varience is industry standard.

There is cheap reflective tape tachometers you can diy to see the numbers yourself. We just had such crappy results (low numbers we thought) with diy that one of the hummer owners pulled $ out of his pocket to have tested. They sent him results since he is the one that paid. He told me over phone and that our diy was pretty spot on.

Their “unlocked” numbers are all in the advertised range.

Yet one more reason for hmmwv fanclutch. Zero applied load when off, just bearing friction causing minimal drag of fan. Iirc the hmmwv clutch disengaged was 3-5% of pulley speed. And a person could get silly and ceramic coat the bearing...
 
@Husker6.5 please don't encourage him!

On second thought....please DO! 😂. But seriously, I'm glad you brought up the issue of fan blades, because it's another thing that's been on my mind...and I keep forgetting to bring it up. Are the factory fans, #15992650, REALLY the best option for moving air? I mean, yes, I'm reading and getting up to speed on what's been written up to this point, but I'd appreciate some up to the minute opinion. Because this was my factory fan, and I opted to "upgrade" to the Duramax fan because; a) the metal fan was rusty, and b) I was swayed by the logic of using the larger diameter, lighter fan with more blades. So now I an go with either one when it come time, but I which?!
 
I have used the 2886 / DMax fan combination.

From what I could tell, the DMax fan did the job it was supposed to do.


The 2886 was a bit more of a wild card.

Remain convinced that first one I got (new) was stuck in a partially locked stage. Symptoms were that on hot days the ECT was lower than I expected (IIRC, low 180*'s F with 195 T-stats) and took longer than expected to get up to that lower than normal operating temp. When towing, I struggled to stay cool on anything but flat ground.

A second new 2886 worked like it should. The annoying thing about the 'good' clutch was that it periodically disengaged while pulling hard and I wanted it to stay locked-in. It was definitely not comfortable to hear the fan spin up / down while pulling the 8K# trailer and a lot of 6% uphill grade still in view . . . If there was a way to force the clutch to stay locked, am certain I could have asked for more power. But, that is less a fault of the 2886 and more of a thermal spring thing.
 
So there is an un-nameable hummer owner with more dollars than sense who because of work industry can’t be outed as a hummer owner or would loose future income.
I have done some pretty involved hummer mods with them and the fan/ fanclutch thing obviously hit the list.

In hummers, you cant trim the shroud, have to trim the dmax fan. So...

Kennedy says he tested the 2 fans and the metal was better and only started selling the dmax after the metal was nla.

I owned already a metal 15992650 fan.
The other hummer owner bought a new dmax fan. Also an electric motor, had a hub mount made, and a bought wind speed meter.

Kennedy either got lucky and his guess was right, or actually tested (which I always believed or why would he loose parts sells to guys going to junkyards) and got same results. The metal fan moved more air than the dmax. That was before trimming to fit inside the hummer shroud, which go Figure- trimming the fan moved a tad less than full size.

So does that prove the metal is the hands down winner?

After talking to a hydrological engineer he says NO, or MAYBE. Explanation:
water pump A can push higher volume of water at a faster unrestricted speed than pump B. But pump A may or may not create more suction or vacuum than pump B. (He was showing 2 different pumps at hand to demonstrate.)
The negative pressure created is not proportional to the air speed in free flowing air even if a shroud is used. The actual restrictive force of a radiator must be used. There are 2 different forces applied. Just because it can move more volume at top rpm does not mean it has the ability to draw that volume through a restriction.

So it is possible the dmax fan could create a better negative pressure behind the radiator than the metal one. Meaning if the plastic fan sucks 10% more air through the radiator, but the metal fan only moves 7% more air free flowing, then he dmax fan wins. Not actual percentages btw, just an example.

So after shipping my fan to daddy big bucks for the testing, it seems more accurate testing is required, not just a shroud and meter. If there was a radiator in use and the actual numbers were done...

Whats Next in this line? my newly made 4 row dimple core radiator is currently in Redding Ca. awaiting a ride home. I can mount the shroud on the radiator. Need to get my own electric motor and adapter plate. Contact between myself and the other hummer owner is always 1 way. Hoping I get a call so I can ask to ship me the motor and mount. Kinda doubt it, because tends to give away test stuff to whoever helps that day when done.

I also have now a trimmed down dmax fan to test with to fit in the shroud.

If all the stars align right and I can find a free or near free motor strong enough to spin said fans up to speed...
And get a wind speed meter- I can do them and will freely share all the numbers - which the other hummer owner was supposed to do with me but instead only said, yes the metal fan wins by a little bit and since threw away the paper the actual numbers were written on (SUPER AGGRAVATING!!)

I also would like to take ambient air temp, fill radiator with 215f water and measure time to get to ambient. So even if no wind speed meter, a btu displacement test. This is arguably more important than air speed/ volume because maybe more pressure differential affects it too. After all, we don’t really care if final fan air speed is X or Y. We want more heat shedding.

Then if 2 more stars align— my radiator is not yet coated with the thermal dispersant— so I could repeat the tests after coatings and share some actual numbers. I have seen street results and track results from it. But imo numbers are irrefutable and show people what they get - bang vs bucks.

If someone were to jump in with parts or make it to my place to help great. I have a factory hummer fanclutch and a Kennedy fanclutch that if someone machined a male thread from waterpump mounted on flat plate, I could Throw fan clutches into the mix also. They wre of similar age and use, but not brand new- so speculative comparison there. I have a contact tachometer, but not the reflective tape ones really needed for testing, depending if motor has exposed rear shaft for tach contact.

If rpm is measurable by my tach or if someone rings reflective one, then also if motor is variable speed or i can get my hands on a vfd, i could also show the difference in time of cooling at 100% fanclutch lockup vs losses viscous.

Ideas on it are obviously welcome, along with anyone else wanting to put on their grease covered lab coat.

Nay sayers could always say I misrepresented things, or the moon was in retrograde, blah blah blah. I liked math in school, i liked science lab in school. As wonky as it may be, I would enjoy doing these bench tests as nearly much as cruising a trail by a camp site. Money and time of course is the biggest factor. I almost always have 2 days a week available just don’t have the cash to spend on buying all the stuff to do everything the best way I envision it. Anybody wanna come play and has a 240v variable speed motor they can bring with?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top