Hydroboost Conversion

[Davkenrem]

Hello all, longtime lurker making first post. Seems there is allot of wisdom here and I would like your opinion on something.

I have an 1997 K1500 Suburban, it has a Superlift K270b 4"-6" lift, BFG 35" Tires. I just completed swapping in a 9.5" 14bolt SF rear with Dual Piston Disc Brakes from a 2002 K1500 Suburban.
The brakes on this truck have never been stellar as you know and I have been reading about swapping in a hydroboost system from a NBS truck. This past weekend I got a Hydroboost system complete from a very clean 2005 Z71 Suburban at the wrecking yard.

After reading through this thread: http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...ng-or-brakes-ps-tank-overflowing.43943/page-3,
I'm wondering if this is a good idea.
While the brakes are not stellar on the suburban, they have always worked and the power steering has been flawless.

By installing the Hydroboost it sounds like I could introduce both steering and braking issues to my truck. I know I need to do something to adjust for the braking bias now that I've added rear disc and I is possible to user the master cylinder from the the 2005 setup alone and get slightly better brakes.

I guess my ultimate question is the hydroboost braking worth the added complexity and addition points of system failure?

I'm a fairly handy with tools and I have know doubt I could install the system properply but sounds like even if I do that, there could be problems.

I'd like to hear from you all what you think and would you do the swap.

Thanks in advance.

David,

 

[ak diesel driver]

So are you converting from vacuum booster to hydroboost or just swapping to newer hydroboost?

 

[Davkenrem]

Thanks for the clarifying question, Vacuum to Hydro.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Most simply swap in the nbs master cylinder with the existing vacuum booster, and say they get a nice braking improvement. And if you can find one, GM used 4 wheel disc brakes on the 3500HD trucks from 95-02 with the same abs system. If you can find one, you can get the proportioning valve out of one to increase your rear brake bias. I've read(not verified) that the 97-99 tahoe's sold for police use with the 130mph speedo also got the same proportioning valve.

 

[Davkenrem]

I got the 4wheel disc brake proportioning valve from the 2005 Hydroboost Suburban, already plumbed to the master cylinder. I would think that it should work.

Most simply swap in the nbs master cylinder with the existing vacuum booster, and say they get a nice braking improvement. And if you can find one, GM used 4 wheel disc brakes on the 3500HD trucks from 95-02 with the same abs system. If you can find one, you can get the proportioning valve out of one to increase your rear brake bias. I've read(not verified) that the 97-99 tahoe's sold for police use with the 130mph speedo also got the same proportioning valve.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

I got the 4wheel disc brake proportioning valve from the 2005 Hydroboost Suburban, already plumbed to the master cylinder. I would think that it should work.

That's a huge mistake unless you've done away with your stock abs(that is where your current proportioning valve is), and swapped over to the new style abs system as they have brake bias function built into the hcu of them that works with the external proportioning valve. Adding another valve without the proper changed would kill your rear brake bias.

 

[Davkenrem]

So using the master cylinder alone w/o the proportioning valve or the Hydroboost Booster with the factory ABS is the best option?

That's a huge mistake unless you've done away with your stock abs(that is where your current proportioning valve is), and swapped over to the new style abs system as they have brake bias function built into the hcu of them that works with the external proportioning valve. Adding another valve without the proper changed would kill your rear brake bias.

 

[Big T]

I don't think the rear disc brakes will cause a braking imbalance, but I would have first converted to the GMT 800 front disc brakes with dual piston calipers. Those alone make a huge difference in stopping power and brake pad wear.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

So using the master cylinder alone w/o the proportioning valve or the Hydroboost Booster with the factory ABS is the best option?

Your mixxing and matching parts in a fashion that is quite honestly dangerous. In order to run the new style proportioning valve, you MUST remove your factory abs unit as it has a proportioning valve in it already. You should never run 2 valves as it will greatly cut your brake pressure down. I would have done just the master cylinder swap, and then found the CORRECT proportioning valve for your abs unit. Otherwise swap to the new style master, do away with your stock abs, and add in the new style proportioning valve.

 

[Davkenrem]

Your mixxing and matching parts in a fashion that is quite honestly dangerous. In order to run the new style proportioning valve, you MUST remove your factory abs unit as it has a proportioning valve in it already. You should never run 2 valves as it will greatly cut your brake pressure down. I would have done just the master cylinder swap, and then found the CORRECT proportioning valve for your abs unit. Otherwise swap to the new style master, do away with your stock abs, and add in the new style proportioning valve.

Firstly, I haven't done anything yet. I'm just collecting parts and doing research. I have all the parts needed to convert my GMT400 to Hydroboost (HB). Got the pedal this weekend from a diesel 96 C2500.

I have the parts to go either way, complete Hydroboost Swap or Master Cylinder only.

My original post is asking whether Hydroboost is worth the possible issues, and really if others have had the same issues as the user in the quoted post.

I'd also love to hear from someone that has actually done an HB swap. I' m not married to either path, just looking for others experience. Was it worth it and would you recommend it.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Big T]

Firstly, I haven't done anything yet. I'm just collecting parts and doing research. I have all the parts needed to convert my GMT400 to Hydroboost (HB). Got the pedal this weekend from a diesel 96 C2500.

I have the parts to go either way, complete Hydroboost Swap or Master Cylinder only.

My original post is asking whether Hydroboost is worth the possible issues, and really if others have had the same issues as the user in the quoted post.

I'd also love to hear from someone that has actually done an HB swap. I' m not married to either path, just looking for others experience. Was it worth it and would you recommend it.

Thanks in advance.

I converted to the GMT 800 front disc brakes, but that was on two K2500 Suburbans ('99 and '94). I retained the stock mastercylinder and hydroboost, though some here speculated that doing so would ruin pedal height. I actually saw improved pedal height and firmness. I still have the stock drum brakes on the 14 bolt full floater rear end, though I have a GMT 800 14 bolt full float with disc brakes prepped and ready for install on the '94. I did install TSB recommended proportioning valve which boosts rear brake pressure from 600 to 800 psi. My ABS has never worked and I have been unable to figure that out, though it might be due to transfer case. In panic stops, all wheels lock and no I don't have the rear end becoming the front end. The braking power is impressive.

I would start with the front brake conversion (look for my post threads here). That is where you will see the most improvement in braking power. Afterall, the front brakes account for 80% of the braking.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

I converted to the GMT 800 front disc brakes, but that was on two K2500 Suburbans ('99 and '94). I retained the stock mastercylinder and hydroboost, though some here speculated that doing so would ruin pedal height. I actually saw improved pedal height and firmness. I still have the stock drum brakes on the 14 bolt full floater rear end, though I have a GMT 800 14 bolt full float with disc brakes prepped and ready for install on the '94. I did install TSB recommended proportioning valve which boosts rear brake pressure from 600 to 800 psi. My ABS has never worked and I have been unable to figure that out, though it might be due to transfer case. In panic stops, all wheels lock and no I don't have the rear end becoming the front end. The braking power is impressive.

I would start with the front brake conversion (look for my post threads here). That is where you will see the most improvement in braking power. Afterall, the front brakes account for 80% of the braking.

1500's with vacuum brakes are a bit different. You can do the same swap in the front, but most have said after swapping to the gmt-800 master and 2500 front calipers(or a set of the ssbc dual piston drop in calipers), it really isn't needed.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Firstly, I haven't done anything yet. I'm just collecting parts and doing research. I have all the parts needed to convert my GMT400 to Hydroboost (HB). Got the pedal this weekend from a diesel 96 C2500.

I have the parts to go either way, complete Hydroboost Swap or Master Cylinder only.

My original post is asking whether Hydroboost is worth the possible issues, and really if others have had the same issues as the user in the quoted post.

I'd also love to hear from someone that has actually done an HB swap. I' m not married to either path, just looking for others experience. Was it worth it and would you recommend it.

Thanks in advance.

I took your post above stating you had the master plumbed with the new style proportioning valve as you had already installed the new style proportioning valve to your truck. If that is not what you've done, then I misunderstood you, and apologize for that. I just don't want you to do something that could get you hurt.

 

[Davkenrem]

I took your post above stating you had the master plumbed with the new style proportioning valve as you had already installed the new style proportioning valve to your truck. If that is not what you've done, then I misunderstood you, and apologize for that. I just don't want you to do something that could get you hurt.

Completely understand, no harm, no foul. BTW. I tracked videos of your Duramax swap and am impressed. I'd love to tackle something like that but time and money prevent it at this time.