What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

[Will L.]

Maybe I shouldn’t say circuit boards. They were a whiteish plastic housing with some kind of metal strips going from connector plug to bulb holder that the heat would turn the plastic yellow to brown. It would disrupt the connection and fail to carry proper current.

 

[WarWagon]

Yeah the 1993's have boards. Yeah they fail like @Will L. described. Just had to fix the brake light board on my friends 1993 gas 454 rig. Yes the boards on the Dodge, 2003, fail often too. Yes, I replaced the turn signal front sockets due to failures as well on the Dodge. The contact to the bulbs have been my recent failures where cleaning and new bulbs only fix it for a short time. Lamp out on the Dodge is sensitive and will drive you nuts when the conection "flickers" but still works. Pinholes in wires corroding the wire open - oh wait that was in snow country. You should see the running light failures, even with the new lower heat bulb, on the 1999+ SUV's/ pickups. Stupid implementation. The Yellow DRL on Bucks are Dangerous as they can flicker with bumps when going bad and look like a turn signal. Perfect set up for a wreck.

 

[Big T]

In the middle of the refurb on the DS door. New interior handle, latch, actuator. Unfortunately, broke the outside handle, so off to the boneyard I go.

 

[MrMarty51]

Removed the fuses and relay switches, one at a time, scrubbed the yellow corrosion from each spade terminal of them, applied some corrosion preventive to each one. I don't know if it`ll help any thing but it sure could not hurt. The upper circuit breaker in the fuse panel at the end of the dash even had a buildup of what looked like greyish ash on its terminals.
Maybe why the door locking mechanisms was so slow ? Time will tell.

 

[Big T]

Finished the DS door today. No more rattles. Now I need to do the PS Side door. Also replaced the broken dome light on my son's '94.

 

[Big T]

Finished the DS door today. No more rattles. Now I need to do the PS Side door. Also replaced the broken dome light on my son's '94.

Replacing the door latch eliminated the door rattle. New actuator did nothing for the door locks. I get some clicking, but none of the doors lock. Occasionally I will get the horn.

 

[MrMarty51]

Replacing the door latch eliminated the door rattle. New actuator did nothing for the door locks. I get some clicking, but none of the doors lock. Occasionally I will get the horn.

Might try running a ground wire from the door to a good grounding source, see if that helps.
Took the K3500 to Billings Tuesday evening, about 35 to 40 miles of solid black ice, after breaking traction a couple of times, I slowed down and locked in the front end. No more breaking of traction then. LOL

 

[Big T]

Might try running a ground wire from the door to a good grounding source, see if that helps.
Took the K3500 to Billings Tuesday evening, about 35 to 40 miles of solid black ice, after breaking traction a couple of times, I slowed down and locked in the front end. No more breaking of traction then. LOL

You’re out in Eastern MT. Winters must be brutal there. I heard they use Chain for wind socks.

 

[MrMarty51]

You’re out in Eastern MT. Winters must be brutal there. I heard they use Chain for wind socks.

Got down to only 32 below New Yours day, getting too mild around here, might have to move to Yakist{spelling might be off some} Russia. I seen in last nights paper it was down to somewheres around 87 degrees F below, now that is winter.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Colder be than I've had so far.

 

[Paveltolz]

Replacing the door latch eliminated the door rattle. New actuator did nothing for the door locks. I get some clicking, but none of the doors lock. Occasionally I will get the horn.

I should have seen this one earlier. When I got my Burb, the door actuators weren't reliable or functional at all. I replaced one and had the same, disappointing, results.
So, I went after the inside door handles, actuator rods and their plastic guides with much greater success.
Removed the rods from the guides but, not from the door, and cleaned them of all the gack that accumulated along with some rust with WD-40 and steel wool.
The plastic guides I hit with WD-40 and rags. I then lubricated the rods at the guides with White Lithium grease. I did have to replace some of the clips and that ended up with a trip to the Steelership but the damage wasn't what I expected.
Door handles were removed, cleaned and Lithium Grease applied. I need to replace the PS Rear door unit as it just doesn't want to cooperate. Dorman replacements are around $20 at O'Reilly's. Actuators, depending on the door can run up to $70 at LMC. Haven't checked Rock Auto's prices on either the handles or actuators.

 

[Big T]

I should have seen this one earlier. When I got my Burb, the door actuators weren't reliable or functional at all. I replaced one and had the same, disappointing, results.
So, I went after the inside door handles, actuator rods and their plastic guides with much greater success.
Removed the rods from the guides but, not from the door, and cleaned them of all the gack that accumulated along with some rust with WD-40 and steel wool.
The plastic guides I hit with WD-40 and rags. I then lubricated the rods at the guides with White Lithium grease. I did have to replace some of the clips and that ended up with a trip to the Steelership but the damage wasn't what I expected.
Door handles were removed, cleaned and Lithium Grease applied. I need to replace the PS Rear door unit as it just doesn't want to cooperate. Dorman replacements are around $20 at O'Reilly's. Actuators, depending on the door can run up to $70 at LMC. Haven't checked Rock Auto's prices on either the handles or actuators.

The rods did have funk on them I replaced one of the clips with a used one from the wrecking yard. I broke several of the plastic pins for the door panel. Also I get a bind screech in the final inch or two of the window’s travel. So this needs to be revisited.

It did seem like the rods were rubbing against each other. I had the rod to the actuator in the clips, but they crossed over each other. I reversed that when the inside handle would not return on its own (does now). I will confirm rod positioning when I take apart the passenger side.

I took the weekend off and spent it up in Big Bear Lake.

 

[MrMarty51]

Two sets of heavy duty chains, both sets to short for the 185 tires, took the old set apart and added some cross links and some side links. Waiting for daylight to see if they are still too short. LOL
Aint going to try and pull the camper into some of those ponds without a good set of chains.
The inspector general is making sure they are right and proper. LOL

 

[Big T]

So your ***** likes chains? Wild life them Montanans live.

 

[MrMarty51]

So your ***** likes chains? Wild life them Montanans live.

LOL, caused from living in the extremes. LOL

 

[MrMarty51]

Just got off Leroy diesel web site, Carter lift pump kit is on the way.

 

[Big T]

Revisited DS door and the inside handle rod became disconnected. I had installed it upside down. Gravity helped it come out of the handle as did the window pushing down on it. I also figured out the door lock actuator issue.
When the rod is inserted into its clip on the door, too much resistance for the actuator. No matter how much cleaning of the rod and clip, greasing the rod, adjusting the rod, when it's in that clip, no go. Leave it out of the clip and everything works fine. So that's the solution.

Passenger side latch is also replaced. I need to make a run to the boneyard and harvest a grip (9) of those plastic pins for the door panels. Also need the larger speakers (2) for the doors.

With the learning curve, this was much easier this go around.

 

[MrMarty51]

Revisited DS door and the inside handle rod became disconnected. I had installed it upside down. Gravity helped it come out of the handle as did the window pushing down on it. I also figured out the door lock actuator issue.
When the rod is inserted into its clip on the door, too much resistance for the actuator. No matter how much cleaning of the rod and clip, greasing the rod, adjusting the rod, when it's in that clip, no go. Leave it out of the clip and everything works fine. So that's the solution.

Passenger side latch is also replaced. I need to make a run to the boneyard and harvest a grip (9) of those plastic pins for the door panels. Also need the larger speakers (2) for the doors.

With the learning curve, this was much easier this go around.

If it is those ring shank plastic nail things, those can be had from most any parts store for not too much money.
I do try to reuse the old ones, just sometimes the rings become stripped and they don't grip as well as they should.
Also on the inside of the door panels is these plastic positioning studs, molded on. I managed to break off one of those, used some J-B Weld Plastic Bondo, pasted that begger back on, it is holding as good as if nothing had ever happened toooit.

 

[schiker]

Had to replace the alternator and did the idler pulley too. The bearings in both were starting to get noisy and compete with the 6.5 clatter. They were making pesky squeaky squealing noises that are irritating. Has a nice engine sound again.

 

[Big T]

If it is those ring shank plastic nail things, those can be had from most any parts store for not too much money.
I do try to reuse the old ones, just sometimes the rings become stripped and they don't grip as well as they should.
Also on the inside of the door panels is these plastic positioning studs, molded on. I managed to break off one of those, used some J-B Weld Plastic Bondo, pasted that
back on, it is holding as good as if nothing had ever happened toooit.

Yes, the damn plastic nail things. I got a handful for my $3 entrance fee, plus bought some speakers for the front doors. All back together and working with the remote. Doors are tight with no rattles.