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Pseudo-Resto 96 K-1500…Um, when was this a good idea?

Almost collected a Toyota yesterday and tried to use the horn while locked up and sliding towards his rear bumper (abrupt lane change on his part at his going 5mph and me doing 50). No horn? Did some deep diving in the manuals and since I'd had a similar issue with my short lived 95 Tahoe, I had a couple of the pages photocopied. Still, trying to find that one schematic....
Trouble shooting lead to a splice in the main wiring harness. Confirmed by the fact that the underhood lamp and underhood reel lamps don't work either and are all fed from that splice. Cue the 'ah ha' music. Took some work getting to it but, when I found it and started moving things around to work on it the lights started working again. Intermittent Open in the circuit confirmed. So, now I have horns, underhood lighting and can get my LED lights wired back up again. Slow, steady progress. Fittings from Air Dog arrived so I can address the slight fuel weep at the pump now too. They sent them free of charge even though I wasn't the original purchaser of the system. Good group of folks there at PureFlow.
 
SS FORCE said:
We (all the other Utahns) aren't ranked the 2nd worst drivers in the nation for nothing.
Click to expand...

So true. There used to be 2 really wide rubber streaks in the right hand lane and shoulder on I15 north, just after the 10400 exit in SLC. Those were from my wrecker when a minivan pulled the same idiotic stunt in front of me.
 
I picked up a front differential this week and after I got over some sort of stomach thing, I cleaned off the 161K miles of gooey grease and gack before putting it back in this afternoon. I figured it would be a bit of a struggle and I wasn't disappointed. Thankfully, I made myself some instructions when taking it out in Oct 2014. DS Pumpkin went up and in as I figured it would. Only real issue was it kept slipping around on the transmission lift I was using. The PS was the real challenge trying to get the two bolt holes lined up. Required a bit of leverage and ratchet strap. Since I'm installing to get some measurements, I didn't install the Half-Shafts and there's a couple issues with connectors that will require some splicing so...

MEASUREMENTS
When talking with some 'experts' on front ends, they said the distance between the output shaft faces to the wheel hubs should be equal...I'm a half inch off of 'equal' though. Driver's side was 16.5" and the Passenger's side was 16". Wheels are straight too, at least not kanted enough for a half inch difference.

So, favor request from someone in the group with a little time and a tape measure...would you please take a measurement from the differential hub faces to your hubs and let me know if there is a difference in your set up(s) too? It would be much appreciated. I'm not in a hurry as there's some issues with electrical connectors I need to work on and I'm leaving town for three weeks on Monday.

I've attached a PDF of the Front Axle Components to help with visual references...REVU Blue Beam program I'm playing around with. Hope it works.
 

Attachments

  • Front Diff Call Out.pdf
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Put the Half Shafts back in, installed a four prong thingy that threads in above the actuator (replacement Diff came with a two prong connector) and spliced a new connector to the harness for the front differential actuator.

I got some measurements for the half-shaft distances between differential and hubs. My Burb is 16.0' on both sides. AkDieselDriver came through and we measured his and there was about 3/8" differences in sides. So, I put a 1/2" worth of spacers on the driver's side since it's 16.5" vs. 16" on the PS. We'll see.

The Passenger's side half-shaft fought the install and I used two different units to see if it might be a manufacture issue. Drivers side was a piece of cake given the extra half-inch of room to work with.

I do have an issue with the front drive shaft though. It's a bit too short now. It's not been a problem in the past when I've had to swap out front differentials.

So, question for the group: Is the front drive shaft adjustable? I thought it telescoped but, it ain't playin' today.
 
Sprayed the slip yoke's choke nut/whatever down with Kroles penetrating oil and let it set for a while. Set up the bench vice the way i've been meaning to do for some time now and was easily able to loosen the yoke and move extend the drive shaft the additional ~inch. After that, it bolted right in.

I took the truck for a run around the trails in the area and while it didn't go into four-wheel drive (another project), the Half-shaft stayed together even though I went over some pretty good bumps, dips and tight right turns while going over bumps and dips. Since it initially started the differential tantrums while going in a straight line over a bump, I see that as a good sign.
 
Under the truck today after the failed Airdog DF-165. There's power all the way to the pump, just like there's supposed to be. Unfortunately, the pump just saying "no, I quit." OEM unit going back in with an after market fuel filter (no FFM). Had to order the fittings from Leroy so I can use 3/8" rubber lines throughout.

I did sort out the non-four wheel drive issue. Seems I got into an attention deficit mode when replacing the salt encrusted actuator plug. Brown to Brown, Black to Black and Blue to sorta Blue is the right way. Black to Blue...not so much. All better now. I hear the happy buzzing as it activates on cue. No driving though as the lift pump is toast.
 
The fittings I ordered from Leroy arrived today as promised, thank you.
Unfortunately I was still fiddle farting with the Air Dog's removal. I did check for AMPs but, my multi-meter doesn't show any on any circuit I checked. I removed the Gerator assembly to inspect for debris and clean them as per the instructions. No debris and the assembly was very clean. After getting the pump out and inspecting the wires at the motor and discovering they are dried out and cracked through to copper, I'd say that the motor is toast.
So, I removed the lines going back to the tank, installed a new 5/8"-16 F to 3/8" barb at the tank's fuel sender after dropping the tank. That was fun seeing as how it was still full minus 40 miles of driving. That and reassembling the fuel filler neck at the tank and the filler. The rubber wasn't cooperating in going back on and the angles are very odd. TGFC (TG for Chiropractors).
Got the new 3/8" line attached and the tank back in place.
Will finish the plumbing job tomorrow. Fuel Filter set up should be here but, I don't know if I'll get to it or not.
 
I have found it easier to remove the box than it is to drop the tank.
I do have one of those motorcycle/atv lifts and that comes in handy if a full tank needs to be dropped.
 
I just put my adjustable transmission cradle attachment on my 3 1/2 ton floor jack and have no problem maneuvering around fuel tanks. The arms do a great job of holding a tank.
 
While waiting for NAPA to open so I could start getting parts for an aftermarket filter set up, I decided to play around with an old Fuel Filter Manager (FFM) to try out the "Feed the Beast" (FTB) mod myself. I had a machinist drill out my original FFM which got gifted to someone else when I put in the Air Dog. They, in turn, gave me this one so, what the heck, I'm putting an aftermarket filter on it anyway (2 Micron).

Pulling the inlet and outlet barbs was easy enough. Simply grab them by the flare at the FFM with vice grips w/o crushing and gently work them outwards.
Drilling the ports to accept the 1/4" NPT threading was interesting given I don't have a drill press (Oh no, he's going to mess it up....). The outlet went smoothly enough. It took a couple of attempts to get the depth. I didn't want to over drill but, why have a 3/8" FTB mod if the hole is still 1/4" inside the FFM. No issues with the handheld drill. The Inlet side though...yeah, it wasn't as easy as one has to go all the way into the heater tube w/o punching it. Given the FFM is aluminum and the tube is steel, I needn't have worried but, I did so I drilled several times and adjusted holds etc. and ovaled the hole. I tapped it deep with the 1/4" NPT tap and shouldered the 1/4" 6AN fitting but, even with teflon tape and thread sealant, I ain't going to trust it. There's room and material there that I can correct this using a 3/8" NPT-Male to 1/4" NPT-F sleeve/fitting left over from when I was un-goofing the taps on the intake manifold a few pages back (not my fault on that). I'll be getting a Drill Press for Christmas (Harbour Freight or Ryobi, I don't need a pro-shop unit).

Then I went to NAPA for the parts for my set up. They only had a 6 Micron filter so I'll use that initially until a CAT 2 Micron shows up in the mail. Love my local shop as they sell me stuff pretty much at cost. FIL-4770 filter base, 1/2NPT-M to 1/4 NPT-F sleeves and the filter plus a filter for the FFM was a lot less than expected. Hose and Rubber Supply of Provo carries all kinds of fittings so I got the 1/2" NPT-M to -6AN-M fittings so I don't have to use the reduction sleeves from NAPA (need to take them back anyway, they didn't charge me for those).

Since the 6 Micron Filter is longer than expected, it will go underneath on the frame rail downstream from the LP instead of in the engine bay.

I'll get some pictures up later when I find my phone. Too early to start rummaging around the bedroom in the dark while the Frau catches up on some sleep.
 
So, I R confused. Are you running the stock ffm for the 30 micron and then running a separate 2 micron after? Or just doing FTB on the backup unit that will sit on the shelf?
 
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