• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Pseudo-Resto 96 K-1500…Um, when was this a good idea?

Paveltolz

Доверяй, но проверяй
Messages
2,875
Reaction score
2,259
Location
Saratoga Springs, UT
As I said in the 6.5 Performance section WRT my build thread…In the spirit of 'it never ends' I'm taking the truck off line for the foreseeable future. Hopefully not for more than a year or so.
I've learned a lot in the past few years and I've learned that a few mistakes I've made REALLY need to be un-done.

For example, The lift I chose was tearing up steering components every couple of years. To reduce the wear and tear, I dropped the lift but didn’t change out the modified upper control arms. Result…instead of tearing up steering stuff to the tune of $400 every couple of years I’m destroying front differentials every time I turn around.

Error 2. The 635 rebuild was too expensive and when it came time to install the motor, I didn't allow enough time, pushed a tight schedule to get it done and have been chasing oil leaks, exhaust leaks and possible poor sealing at the water pump. Given the amount of RTV and Permatex used, it’s hard to believe but, the issues are what they are.

I am currently chasing my tail trying to do what I want and keep the truck available for day to day work related stuff and loosing. Right now it is scuffed for paint prep, running in two-wheel drive configuration along with a few other issues that all add up to frustration.

To add to that, Motor oil samples still show silicon, Potassium and sodium contamination though there is no visible signs other than a very slow coolant loss previously attributed to the weeping heater coil fitting on the T-stat. All levels of particulates, metal or chemical were down 50% or better but something is up. Same sample results from another lab stated ‘no glycol’ present. The notes from the second lab also said, “Possible sealant additive”…busted. I used an additive to try to stop some oil burn smoke a few months ago. Turned out to be a rear turbo oil seal that was cured with a new center section. With the numbers down, I’ll not panic but will still pull the motor and figure it out along with addressing other minor issues...the 'while I'm at it stuff.'

Nothing mechanically wrong with the motor so while it's only the gaskets and seals between oil and water I'll be digging into I may not pull the main and rod bearings and replace.

In order to maintain 4x4 daily available truck like capability...I purchased a 1995 Tahoe that belonged to SSForce's grandparents. It's a cream puff and was available at a great price. Only downside is that it is a Gasser but that's neither here nor there. The idea is to be able to get from here to there this winter.

So, along with tightening up the motor I’ll be addressing most of the following.

"Frame off Restoration": pull the bed, install the driver's side rear leaf spring shackle hanger; clean up frame, prime and paint; finally set up auxiliary filtering for the tranny and engine; redo/correct routing of the wiring, fuel sender, lines etc. with the bed off; clean up the engine bay with the motor out and sound dampen the fire wall; clean up the motor and fittings to include pounding out the F'n dent the front differential made in the oil pan; repaint the motor; lift the body enough to get at the frame and clean it up and paint that half too; sound dampen the rest of interior; replace passenger side fender; return upper control arms to OEM units and adjust torsion bars correctly; replace door hinge pins and bushings; body work on the truck that I can do; reassemble; farm out body work & paint; restore to 4x4 ("New" front Diff and CV Half Shafts); proper lift (BDS); install the new grille, bumper etc. sitting in the basement and then try to enjoy the thing for a while. Of course there will be the ‘while I’m in here’ stuff that will create the dreaded ‘mission creep’ projects but that’s the fun of it too.

Most of the stuff to do this project I have on hand but, of course, some new tools will be needed (darn). With the addition of a great shop air compressor, I’ve got the ratchet, air chisel and impact wrench along with a basic boogie set of paint guns.

Parts and materials I have on the shelf include: new bed bolts and isolation pads; bumper(s) with bolts and trim, new molding (thanks Steve), grille, fender, turbo(s), all OEM stuff I’ve taken off, plethora of gaskets (upper/lower intake, heads, exhaust, turbo return line and others), tubes of black RTV and other Permatex products.

The main thing though is, I now can take the time I need/want now and not worry about having to take leave or 'have the thing back together because I need it for work next morning.'

Speaking of morning, tomorrow I'll probably finish a wiring druthers on the Tahoe's headlights and then start back in on this project by:

Dropping the front differential and storing it for spare internal parts (front drive shaft and Half Shafts already pulled as well as 'shop tires and rims' swapped on), toss the old half-shafts, make room on the shelf for the plethora of rubbermaid containers I'll use to hold the small parts.

Hang on, here we go again!
 
Oil sample silicon, a traditional dirt/dust leak, also comes from RTV silicone make a gasket sealer.
 
I wish I could come help
Come on down. My garage is way warmer, comparatively speaking, in the winter than yours. Guest room available in the house too.

Oil sample silicon, a traditional dirt/dust leak, also comes from RTV silicone make a gasket sealer.
That is a point I hadn't thought of. Much appreciated.
 
Im looking forward to seeing your truck back on the road again. My hands are free any time you need them. I need a winter project and since my truck is the daily driver looks like yours will have to do :hihi:
 
If I had time and lived closer I would be happy to lend a hand as well. Good luck and looking forward to seeing this one come together!:thumbsup:
 
All offers for assistance and best wishes are greatly appreciated. Feel free to swing in and say hi at least. I may or may not have a wrench to fit your hands but friendly banter is always fitting.

Slow week for truck work. Got roped into helping neighbors in ‘need' which translated to 'in need of a truck' to haul sod.:skep: Bad part is, once there’s sod on the truck, the only way to get your truck back is to help unload it. Once you’ve got a roll of sod in your hands, might as well lay it down where it belongs. Rinse and repeat. I digress, as usual.

I pulled the Half Shaft a while ago and the one that ‘banged’ is a mess inside. That grease should be smooth, not chunky and the chunks shouldn't be attracted to a magnet either. That one is in the trash now.:rolleyes5:
IMG_4026.jpg

I did pull the front differential and took notes as to wrench sizes etc. for re-installing later.
IMG_4025.jpg


Even made a pictorial instruction sheet for putting it all back together. A couple of the bolts holding the pumpkin mount to the lower control arm brace are much longer than needs be so I picked up replacement Grade 8’s and put those in the box labeled appropriately and put it on the shelf along with the Half-Shaft parts. Place for everything…everything in place.

Damages. Apparently I’m the only one who does this to his parts.
IMG_4029.jpg

IMG_4028.jpg

IMG_4037.jpg

Salt on the actuator circuit! Now where did that come from? It explains the vibration issues I experienced at Bonneville though...the 'weather pack' on that aftermarket harness connector is molded plastic, not the flexible silicon we see on OEM equivalents.
IMG_4035.jpg

I’ll start removing hood and fenders to see if I need to actually pull the motor or if I can get done what I need with just the skin removed. I found the main source of the oil leak I’m trying to correct and it is the oil dipstick tube. It doesn't fully seat into the oil pan so I’ll have to get a solution worked out for that.
 
Good luck with it Paul. As usual, you are sure to make an adventure of the project. Always makes me wish we were living closer together so I could pitch in from time to time.
 
Just got back from a great road trip around southern UT and northern AZ and decided I would finally start in and start by taking one thing of the truck and working on it...the Grille.

Old unit was purchased with pre-installed 4mm billets through LMC 6 years ago. I've removed and reinstalled it many times with my projects over the years and it now has cracks, busted tabs, etc. and I've had a replacement in the basement for a while.
I did want to transfer the 4mm billeted inserts that came with it over to the new grille but these have seen a lot of miles and showed it.

They are aluminum I figured they would clean up fairly well by wetsanding them with progressively finer grades of paper: 400, 800, 1000 & 2000. Here's a comparison of the top and bottom units after starting in on reconditioning one of them. Not too noticeable unless blown up.
IMG_4181-s.jpg

Both Done.
IMG_4182-s.jpg

Cut out the OEM inserts with a coping saw and hacksaw blade.
IMG_4186-s.jpg

Used the billeted inserts to template the holes to drill out.
IMG_4188-s.jpg

Unfortunately, one set of holes lined up in the "V" where the OEM insert was cut out. So, to ensure a good solid backing for the bolts and washers, I cut a thin steel deck plate for a bit of added strength and to reduce stress on the plastic and, hopefully, keep things from cracking and breaking in the future.
IMG_4190-s.jpg

Tightened up with Nylon locking nuts and Allen head bolts which are 10-24 x3/4" so the bolt heads were small enough to fit between the billets.
IMG_4192-s.jpg

Finished for now. Before and after
IMG_4184-s.jpg
IMG_4194-s.jpg

Bow Tie I'll use is billeted aluminum and will go on along with side marker lamps when I put the front end back together which will be a while...I don't really have it apart other than removing the grille.

Full Disclosure. These kind of projects scare the hell out of me. I know what needs to be done and how I want it to look/be at the end but the middle part...getting from start to finish...my decision and planning process probably would look like a corn field maze if drawn out. So, I've been trying to figure out where to start and juggling work and volunteer program scheduling. Start small, take off something and do what needs to be done to it and then start in on something else.

Hood is next...
 
Cancer or Salt Flat Souvenir?

I started removing smaller parts of the truck like the Fire Wall Reel Light, pulling the wires out of the fenders that power the rocker panel turn signal LED strips and taking off the front fender flares.

This is what I found under the passenger side flare. :dupe:
IMG_4198-s.jpg

I knew there was a growing rust issue there last fall but thought the 'rust fix' stuff would hold it at bay a while.:rof: You know, the sand w 50 grit, spray with 'Rust Converter', wait 24 hrs stuff in a rattle can...NOT! :dupe:

Apparently it was eaten through and the unseen part of the fender was very compromised and no amount of paint-on treatment was going to help it even if it did get back there.

After my September 2014 trip to the salt flats I found a stubborn pocket of salt packed in that area. None on the driver side though. Obviously there was an earlier episode of the same thing that I missed some time ago. I'll have to devise a means of protecting that area in the future during the project. Some sort of shielding fabricated into the fender and fenderwell so as not to compound the problem as well...my luck.

Good thing I was planning on replacing it anyway and have a white fender I scored in a strip yard last summer.
 
Spay in bed liner to bottom then body color paint over it. I've done that and turns out real nice. Looks a little like stone guard.
 
Have you guys seen the stuff that keeps water off stuff? I've often wondered if applying it to the top coat would work well on a vehicle.. [video=youtube_share;IPM8OR6W6WE]http://youtu.be/IPM8OR6W6WE[/video]
 
Good reminder.
I had thought about using the stuff under the truck in the hard to reach areas to facilitate removing Salt Flat residue. Along the rocker panels, inside and out and especially in the nether parts under the bed.
 
I don't know how I missed this thread Paul, but I'm subscribed now. This is going to be fun to follow along with, and very nice work on the grill.:thumbsup:

Matt
 
Spay in bed liner to bottom then body color paint over it. I've done that and turns out real nice. Looks a little like stone guard.
Thought about this option too and wonder if the chrome dress kit I have for the lower panels will adhere to the textured surface after painting?

Feedback, thoughts, opinions?
 
Back
Top