Will L.
Well-Known Member
Extra mile? I walked from the couch to the kitchen table! How big do you think my house is, sheesh!
Good eye on the left hand threads. Haha
Good eye on the left hand threads. Haha
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Centermount turbo setup on a k3500
- Thread starter 3500_6.5
- Start date
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Ok, but surely there was a stop in between the couch and the table to get those pretty colored pencils from your kid's room....
And yes I know, stop calling you Shirley.
Perfect Will, Thats what I was thinking, just surprised there was room to make the turn and not bind on the intake.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
No worries Leroy.
I Love Airplane!
I Love Airplane!
3500_6.5
Well-Known Member
How's that look???
I got one 36" piece of all thread while I was out getting some parts for my rake. I'll try to do some cutting, heating and bending tonight to see how it turns out.
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Tim, a thought. Would it be easier to weld a divider in a side mount intake?
Will, Guess what Im picking up tomorrow? Give up?........A red Dot AC System!
Will, Guess what Im picking up tomorrow? Give up?........A red Dot AC System!
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Rodger, Rodger. Give me clearance, Clarence. Set a vector, Victor!
3500_6.5
Well-Known Member
I wanted the van intake so there was the open space in the middle for the turbo to sit and for all of the exhaust plumbing. Using the van intake backwards gives me the open space down the entire valley of the engine (minus injection pump room) and allows me to run the air charge plumbing from the intercooler all the way at the front of the engine in hopes of giving enough room to run the 3" turbo inlet plumbing and the turbo outlet piping to the intercooler. I have a lot of plumbing to run in a small amount of space so I need it to be as open as possible.
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I understand, going though almost the same as you. Started my build here http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/hummer-h1-humvee-hmmwv-center-mount-att.45475/#post-522955
The problem is any bigger turbo than stock won't fit between the intakes. I am waiting for parts to come in still, but got the van intakes just so I could see for myself. Pretty sure turbo will have to go transverse.
The problem is any bigger turbo than stock won't fit between the intakes. I am waiting for parts to come in still, but got the van intakes just so I could see for myself. Pretty sure turbo will have to go transverse.
Twisted Steel Performance
Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
Consider sitting it sideways.....
= transverse 
3500_6.5
Well-Known Member
It will most likely have to be sideways after looking at the truck. The downpipe, even with the 3" body lift I have, will not fit behind the engine with the plumbing from the heads already running back there too. Mounting it sideways would allow me to run the turbo exhaust straight over to the original downpipe location without adding any unnecessary bends to the exhaust.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Twisted Steel Performance
Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
I'm not that edgemcated...
Me toeither. I just got learned it.
3500_6.5
Well-Known Member
Here's what I got done tonight though.
I did a few of the angled all thread pieces. Will is a genius. It is so simple and easy but something I would have never thought of. It seems, as of right now, that this will be the route I'll be going to mount the intakes.
I also added an elbow to the driver side header bc there wasn't enough room to put the flange on and then add the bend. It put the exhaust too far back and would hit the firewall. So I tacked the elbow into the header and then put the flange on the backside of the head. I ran the 45* angle and a small straight piece to get the piping up to the engine valley. I tacked it all together with the stick welder. I have a new welder that should be here Monday, so I'll wait to do all of the final welding until then.
These were the two option I was thinking for the turbo. The transverse one will most likely be what I will be going with after going out and looking at the truck. This is a 18cm non gated hx35 that I will use to mock up everything. It will sit a little higher and I will add mounting backets to support the turbo, but for visuals, I just set it on the intake to get an idea of where things will need to be. Critiques are more than welcome!
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I did a few of the angled all thread pieces. Will is a genius. It is so simple and easy but something I would have never thought of. It seems, as of right now, that this will be the route I'll be going to mount the intakes.
I also added an elbow to the driver side header bc there wasn't enough room to put the flange on and then add the bend. It put the exhaust too far back and would hit the firewall. So I tacked the elbow into the header and then put the flange on the backside of the head. I ran the 45* angle and a small straight piece to get the piping up to the engine valley. I tacked it all together with the stick welder. I have a new welder that should be here Monday, so I'll wait to do all of the final welding until then.
These were the two option I was thinking for the turbo. The transverse one will most likely be what I will be going with after going out and looking at the truck. This is a 18cm non gated hx35 that I will use to mock up everything. It will sit a little higher and I will add mounting backets to support the turbo, but for visuals, I just set it on the intake to get an idea of where things will need to be. Critiques are more than welcome!
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Will L.
Well-Known Member
Hummers suffer more heat related issues than pickups because of the angled cooling stack. IMO it is added to by the up pipes and turbo holding more heat near the rear cylinder/head. Do everything you can to insulate the up pipes and blanket the turbo.
Also 3500_6.5 and Leroy: is there any reason the turbo could not drain into a valve cover?
Also 3500_6.5 and Leroy: is there any reason the turbo could not drain into a valve cover?
Tim, My plan is to put the turbo lower and behind the intake, on a Hummer that means a new dog house. On trucks you may have to go above intake because of firewall.
Will, Tim and I talk on Facebook also and have thought about drain to valve cover. Its still open for that. I prefer to route a hose to original fuel pump block off location (factory turbo drain) on "non valley equipped oil/drain blocks" (we need a term for those).
Will, Tim and I talk on Facebook also and have thought about drain to valve cover. Its still open for that. I prefer to route a hose to original fuel pump block off location (factory turbo drain) on "non valley equipped oil/drain blocks" (we need a term for those).
Just looked again at last pic of transverse. I would flip turbo around 180* so plumbing to air filter is cleaner.
Edit: Oh but wait on trucks the down pipe is harder to plumb so yeah I'd keep it like you have and deal with the air filter later. Might could move filter to driver side? I did on my Isuzu swap.
On Hummer DP can go to driver side.
Edit: Oh but wait on trucks the down pipe is harder to plumb so yeah I'd keep it like you have and deal with the air filter later. Might could move filter to driver side? I did on my Isuzu swap.
On Hummer DP can go to driver side.
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3500_6.5
Well-Known Member
The turbo could go further back on mine. With the body lift there is more room back there. It still wouldn't fit completely behind the intake, so it would still have to sit fairly high. The reason I moved it up farther is bc of the downpipe. My heater hoses are in the way if I get to close to the firewall. That would mean I would have to have my downpipe bend forward to avoid the heater hoses, then go down, then go back again and connect to the downpipe. I like the idea of as little bends as possible, so I figured I could just move the turbo up farther so it will clear the heater hoses without adding any additional bends other than to go directly down to the downpipe. Still working on actual fitment, but I think it should work and have enough clearance for all other plumbing.
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Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Why not put 90° els (soldered copper/brass fittings?) on the heater nipples at the fire wall and route the heater hoses along the firewall over to the fender, then around the airbox between the battery and over to the normal connection points on the engine? It would open up that area tremendously and you could possibly run a 4" down even.