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Resurecting New Engine

tanman_2006 said:
That's one way to break in a turbo. Any changes on boost with the new center?

Sent from: Source Unknown
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Is there really anything special your supposed to do to break it in? I guess i should have researched that. I picked up a good parts WH1C for 30 bucks the other day, someone took it apart to make a hybrid and failed. Im going to try to make a spare with the two parts CHRA's i have now. Boost wise i notice no change in quickness of spool or total PSI set with my TM.
 
Idk, most people with att's say there is around 500 miles break in. The last diesel truck we bought new they said there is no break in period so we hooked to a trailer that afternoon. Probably not really an issue.

Sent from: Source Unknown
 
I tracked all my mileage. This was mostly 70 mph on winter blend. I got 14.8 with 2k lb trailer. Then drove for a bit without trailer and got 17. Havent tracked it back yet.
 
DieselSlug said:
Very good possibility i did something wrong, but i followed the Holset manual. Could have been a cheap rebuild kit too? I change the oil every 3-3500 miles religiously and added oil to the bearings before first fire..
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Surprisingly this may be too long of an oil change interval!!! You need an oil sample. The manual calls for 2500 mile oil changes under severe duty. These engines have 1/2 the oil capacity and a very sooty dirty design vs. more modern engines. 3000 miles was pushing the oil in my truck.
 
tanman_2006 said:
Idk, most people with att's say there is around 500 miles break in. The last diesel truck we bought new they said there is no break in period so we hooked to a trailer that afternoon. Probably not really an issue.

Sent from: Source Unknown
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Agreed for the 500 mile break in and maybe longer before the bearings free up on the ATT. You need 500 miles for the rear end and brakes to break in before towing from new or rebuild.
 
WarWagon said:
Surprisingly this may be too long of an oil change interval!!! You need an oil sample. The manual calls for 2500 mile oil changes under severe duty. These engines have 1/2 the oil capacity and a very sooty dirty design vs. more modern engines. 3000 miles was pushing the oil in my truck.
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Interesting, will have to start doing them more frequently. I do plow with the truck, but i haven't plowed in over a month its been so crappy here! So besides occasional plowing its just a daily driver.
 
Just hit 2,500 miles and am going to change the oil ASAP (stinking rain/cold).

Contemplating on my next move of what to work on. My bed and cab don't line up well anymore, so i believe my truck needs body mounts. None a rotted off or anything but they look very squished. I think im going to get an energy suspension bushing kit and replace them. Also working on finding a suitable shop to do the cab corners and possibly the rockers (since im doing the corners might as well do the rockers). Im also working on cleaning up a set of bumper guides i got.
 
This week is the start of the local fireman's field days and i have been helping setup for this event and do various activities throughout the week there. Today we are supposed to get hammered with rain 2-3"! I've been driving my car around lately and we have to park in a field for the events. Stopped up at my dads to pick up the truck last night. Started right up and ran well for about 1 minute, then i picked up a very loud squeal from under the hood. Thought the idler pulley or alternator was going again. Shut it off to find the serpentine belt was loose. The tensioner had no spring too it. So i removed it to find this.

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I used to have an extra tensioner but my dad has been getting on my case to get rid of my large lot of spare parts. Needless to say this was one part that got tossed a few months ago. (You think its bad when you don't have the part, its way worse when you know you did and threw it out!) I've never had one of these spring type tensioners fail on me before, that's why i felt the need to scrap the old one.
 
Am in the process of swapping out my Silverado switches for Suburban switches. A few pictures of the wires today at lunch. Have to go from the the round style to square.

Handcannon kindly let me use his wiring diagram to help make the swap easier. Great guy!
 
Forgot to add some pictures i took of my stock wires.
 

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Seeing as how its becoming the end of summer i'm going to start working on my truck to get it ready for this winter season. The most important thing I need is a new set of winter rims and tires. Jumped on craigslist and found a set of (5) star style 8-lug 2003 Silverado steelies with the chrome plating on them. Should be perfect for winter rims. They have a shot pair of tires on them, but the guy said if i get them all tonight $40 is the price. They are about 1 hour away.

I also see a deal going on at discounttiredirect for a set of 265/75/R16 Cooper M & S tires for $535 that ends the 20th of August. I'm going to try and save up for a set to go on these new rims.
 
Ended up buying the rims and tires. 2 of the tires are in pretty good shape, i'm going to pick the best one to swap out with the 245 spare to get me back to 265 ratio.

If you look close some of the chrome skins have a few dents in them:
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The wheel weights are clamped right over this skin to the rim. I wonder if these skins are removable? I want to try and pound out the big dents. I also have a plastic set of wheel skins that i could replace the metal ones if they do come off, but the metal ones don't look as cheap.

Summit Racing sells the MasterCraft Courser MSR (C's) for $171 each free shipping, thinking about buying these in the next month or so.
 
Got the new Cooper Discoverer M&S tires mounted last night. $760 all said and done. I can't wait to feel the difference plowing this year, i've always plowed on an M/T. Also upgraded my 245/75/R16 spare to a 265/75/R16, so now i have a true full size matching spare.
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Well working on getting an appointment with a friend. Crawled under the truck to check on my hole in the frame, well its gotten bigger since last spring! Its now about a 1/8'' gap in two areas. I cant seem to get a very good picture to show it, everything is real crusty.

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tanman_2006 said:
Eww, time for a southern truck to drop the drive train in.

Source Unknown
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I think next summer i will be getting a new daily driver pickup, and this one will turn into my backup. Hope the frame can be saved for now, its in a very important location. A lot of stuff connects in this area, and on the others side plus the plow plates too.
 
POR-15 the frame. Start small, and do sections at a time. The stuff spreads pretty thin and does a cool looking job. You can get a small kit with everything you need for around $20. My neighbor has been playing around with it with his transfer case rebuild.

Our

Need a Texas frame I have a pick and pull down the road from my house. It is $150 for a bare frame. I have no idea how badly shipping will kill you to get it too your door. If interested, PM me.

http://www.wrenchapart.com/price-list/
 
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