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HX40II Turbo Install

illville said:
Dont know, i just ordered the turbo, if this intake doesnt work out though ill give you first crack at it.
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Past posts have shown that the waste gate will not clear a factory box not sure, just wouldn't want that nice AFE intake cut up. :eek::eek:
 
Slim Shady said:
Past posts have shown that the waste gate will not clear a factory box not sure, just wouldn't want that nice AFE intake cut up. :eek::eek:
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Ya, I was hoping to run the spring adjustable boost controller to solve that but we'll see, as much as i paid for the AFE i would hate to hack any part of it up.
 
illville said:
Ya, I was hoping to run the spring adjustable boost controller to solve that but we'll see, as much as i paid for the AFE i would hate to hack any part of it up.
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If using a spring adjustable waste gate, there will be enough room for the air cleaner
 
What is the difference in using a spring adjustable wastegate contoller like the 'turbo-master' vs. the diaphram type like found on ebay? The original controller (pot & rod) was like the ebay ones, right?
 
With a spring actuated waste gate you have the ability to adjust your boost by tightening or loosening a nut.

With the boost controlled style you can't adjust it. It's pre set to open at 20psi
 
How does it 'monitor' boost pressure for opening and closing? From what I see, the spring is simply pushing the wastegate flap against force produced by the pressure of the exhaust. I am guessing the exhause pressure is directly attributed to the intake pressure?

Is one system more reliable than the other? I do not want to accidentally overboost my old girl. I don't think my 265,000+ mile engine can handle overboost. I just want to be able to maintain boost beyond 2000 rpm with less heat.
 
Well for starters you have to have a boost gauge this way you can dial in the boost.

With the spring waste gate the exhaust back pressure over comes the spring and compresses it. I would think that is most reliable, no parts to wear out or diaphram to dry out or a splitting hose like on the boost actuated style
 
Jorge6.5 said:
Well for starters you have to have a boost gauge this way you can dial in the boost.

With the spring waste gate the exhaust back pressure over comes the spring and compresses it. I would think that is most reliable, no parts to wear out or diaphram to dry out or a splitting hose like on the boost actuated style
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You know the most reliable is not having any waste gate :agreed::hihi: I had to say that. Is there a exhaust back pressure number that correlates with the spring opening pressure?
 
Yes true but its also nice not having smoke on accel or on shifts and I'm not a fan of lag. I have run non gated in the past and I didn't like how it worked in my area

I don't have back pressure numbers myself, I have yet to hook up a gauge for drive pressure.
 
Jorge6.5 said:
Yes true but its also nice not having smoke on accel or on shifts and I'm not a fan of lag. I have run non gated in the past and I didn't like how it worked in my area

I don't have back pressure numbers myself, I have yet to hook up a gauge for drive pressure.
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What turbo were you running when you had the non gated turbo, must have been a little large? Were you running it on the truck you have now? Drive pressure numbers would be nice if they were available, I have not seen any hard numbers posted yet.
 
Slim Shady said:
What turbo were you running when you had the non gated turbo, must have been a little large? Were you running it on the truck you have now? Drive pressure numbers would be nice if they were available, I have not seen any hard numbers posted yet.
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I was running a banks on my truck that I still drive now. IIRC, the turbine housing was a/r 1.00 and the compressor was an a/r .60 it did feel better then the gm turbo. But boost didn't come on till around 1800RPMs.
 
Jorge6.5 said:
I was running a banks on my truck that I still drive now. IIRC, the turbine housing was a/r 1.00 and the compressor was an a/r .60 it did feel better then the gm turbo. But boost didn't come on till around 1800RPMs.
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I wonder what that turbo would do with a program tuned for it, one thing with all the back & forth with mine some tunes did better than others, my current tune is pretty close but still needs some tweaking IMO.

Boost lag some would have you believe is all you will ever get from a big turbo is not quite true some vids for a big turbo installed

I just uploaded to the ATT thread some old & new vids of a big turbo in action
 
It is not the final boost pressure that is critical, it is when boost & fuel are combined in proper event cycle and the efficiency the turbo produces the boost, my big turbo worked ok with GM programming, even my GM-8 could make 20+ psi but fell off in ability to produce boost without struggle at upper end. Big turbo lacked the grunt on bottom it has now vs what it had with factory program or even some of the "performace tunes" from Bill optimized to the GM turbos.

Even the prime proponent of the HX had to tweak a program to get best out of the HX, so I've learned there is more to a performance turbo match than just a swap out of turbos, even a performance tune that works well with one turbo may not give best performance with another turbo.
 
Well aware of the fact that tune has a lot to do with tune performance. Wish I had the opportunity to try the banks with a tune. I only posted my max boost with the banks because that's the only numbers I have from the turbo lol. Only had a boost gauge.

Honestly was surprised I made that much boost on stock fuel
 
Tim writ:
Even the prime proponent of the HX had to tweak a program to get best out of the HX
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Is there actually a specific tune for the HX? Sorry if I missed that tid bit. I know ATT has a specific tune.

Right now I run the Heath GL4 tune and know that there is more potential in the tune for the HX. Honestly I was just thinking about getting the ATT tune which would be close IMO.

Also to add. I run the stock HX with the 20 PSI valve, no problems at about 15K. But I drive easy, very rarely over 14PSI. And when towing I just regulate by left foot for Pyro and Boost.

I'm headed to Orlando next week with the trailer, so I should bring back some good MPG numbers when towing on the HX.
 
Pillow said:
Tim writ:


Is there actually a specific tune for the HX? Sorry if I missed that tid bit. I know ATT has a specific tune.

Right now I run the Heath GL4 tune and know that there is more potential in the tune for the HX. Honestly I was just thinking about getting the ATT tune which would be close IMO.

Also to add. I run the stock HX with the 20 PSI valve, no problems at about 15K. But I drive easy, very rarely over 14PSI. And when towing I just regulate by left foot for Pyro and Boost.

I'm headed to Orlando next week with the trailer, so I should bring back some good MPG numbers when towing on the HX.
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after talking with Tim I hear the ATT tunes currently available are decent but nowhere near where they should be...thefermanator built an excellent baseline tune for the ATT and currently Dennis is tweaking that tune.

there is more info to be had in the OBDI tuning thread found here: http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?35689-DIY-BD1-Programming-Burn-your-own-chips!
 
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