turbovanman
I has boost, :O)
I would agree, at this point, it sounds like it needs more than a valve job.
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6.5TD engine expired? Rebuild time?
- Thread starter 3500GMC
- Start date
I would agree, at this point, it sounds like it needs more than a valve job.
packratt
Active Member
Since your truck is a 4x4 I'd just pull the motor. It is a tight fit squeezing the oil pan past the front diff when installing the motor. You need to unbolt the motor mounts and lift the motor to have clearance to pull the pan. May as well pull it all the way and be able to get to everything.
I had better compression than that with a badly cracked block. http://www.dieseltowingresource.com/showthread.php?t=8229
I had better compression than that with a badly cracked block. http://www.dieseltowingresource.com/showthread.php?t=8229
3500GMC
What T F, over
A way to get my '93 usable?
OK I'll run this by the 6.2/6.5 crew.
I have an opportunity to score a good running '90 6.2 from a 1-ton 4WD locally for a nice price. Below 100k miles.
My hopes would be to get my '93 on the road before WINTER. I don't have the disposable income right now for a FULL-ON 6.5 build- or at least what I have in mind as full-on.
Maybe my current 6.5 is scrapped, I dunno yet. It NEEDS to come out, period and I figure why not pop a little 6.2 in there. These are my 'thinkings'...
Am I in for it?
Is it possible to use my 'good' GM-3 turbo?
Which IP? Turn up the 6.2 pump to accommodate the boost?
Any other potential road blocks?
Thoughts?
Thanks.
OK I'll run this by the 6.2/6.5 crew.
I have an opportunity to score a good running '90 6.2 from a 1-ton 4WD locally for a nice price. Below 100k miles.
My hopes would be to get my '93 on the road before WINTER. I don't have the disposable income right now for a FULL-ON 6.5 build- or at least what I have in mind as full-on.
Maybe my current 6.5 is scrapped, I dunno yet. It NEEDS to come out, period and I figure why not pop a little 6.2 in there. These are my 'thinkings'...
Am I in for it?
Is it possible to use my 'good' GM-3 turbo?
Which IP? Turn up the 6.2 pump to accommodate the boost?
Any other potential road blocks?
Thoughts?
Thanks.
turbovanman
I has boost, :O)
Swap everything over, use your 6.5 IP, keep boost at 10 psi and watch the EGT's.
Not sure if the 90 has a reverse rotation pump, but if it does, your gold, if not, you'll have to change it.
Missy Good Wench
Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt
The 6.2 will do fine.
As mentioned swap the accessories and install the turbo, IP and such
If the 6.2 came from an old style truck and has V belts then you will need to swap the water pump from yours.
The injectors lines are compatible as are the injectors.
Easy switch.
MGW
As mentioned swap the accessories and install the turbo, IP and such
If the 6.2 came from an old style truck and has V belts then you will need to swap the water pump from yours.
The injectors lines are compatible as are the injectors.
Easy switch.
MGW
3500GMC
What T F, over
UPDATE...
Well what have we HERE? A freshly plucked chunk of iron.
This weekend I will be doing a teardown. Will be INTERESTING for sure.
I found a little blue torque converter. I don't think it's GM. B&M? Haven't looked to close at it yet. At some point in time my 4L80E was rebuilt. This could be a plus.
As for turning wrenches on this pile, what a trip. I managed NOT to throw stuff, but I kicked a milk crate and I haven't found it yet.
I think I drug every metric wrench and socket to be found from out of the tool boxes... Geesh. And as a parting shot GM decided to use STANDARD engine mount bolts. :mad2:
Why did I even buy this truck? :rolleyes5:
Well what have we HERE? A freshly plucked chunk of iron.
This weekend I will be doing a teardown. Will be INTERESTING for sure.
I found a little blue torque converter. I don't think it's GM. B&M? Haven't looked to close at it yet. At some point in time my 4L80E was rebuilt. This could be a plus.
As for turning wrenches on this pile, what a trip. I managed NOT to throw stuff, but I kicked a milk crate and I haven't found it yet.
I think I drug every metric wrench and socket to be found from out of the tool boxes... Geesh. And as a parting shot GM decided to use STANDARD engine mount bolts. :mad2:
Why did I even buy this truck? :rolleyes5:
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turbovanman
I has boost, :O)
Nice job, :thumbsup:
Blue converters usually mean its a reman, although that blue is a bit darker.
Blue converters usually mean its a reman, although that blue is a bit darker.
Hmmm that paint color scheme looks familiar...
And I thought my idle speed was low at times after start up... Read the visor - you have to floor it key on before cranking to get the cold idle speed to work right.
After the rebuild / repair to wake it up:
Exhaust - turbo back, 1/3 turn on the IP screw, and a turbo master. (Loose the GM spring can on the GM3...) Loose the snorkel in the fender if it still has it. Boost gauge and pyrometer... Find a heavy trailer and set the Turbo Master in OD low RPM WOT to stay under 14 PSI - the rest will stay under 12 PSI after that. HO water pump and 9 blade fan with fan clutch of your choice or mod yours if it still works.
That is what I did anyway and it went from 35 MPH flat out to 43 MPH flat out pulling a 24' up a tree, err, the big hill I climb every day.
Check the cooling system - radiator inside and outside for plugging. Replace the condenser for a lot of bent fins or clean it out. Lots of threads on here to help with that.
And I thought my idle speed was low at times after start up... Read the visor - you have to floor it key on before cranking to get the cold idle speed to work right.
After the rebuild / repair to wake it up:
Exhaust - turbo back, 1/3 turn on the IP screw, and a turbo master. (Loose the GM spring can on the GM3...) Loose the snorkel in the fender if it still has it. Boost gauge and pyrometer... Find a heavy trailer and set the Turbo Master in OD low RPM WOT to stay under 14 PSI - the rest will stay under 12 PSI after that. HO water pump and 9 blade fan with fan clutch of your choice or mod yours if it still works.
That is what I did anyway and it went from 35 MPH flat out to 43 MPH flat out pulling a 24' up a tree, err, the big hill I climb every day.
Check the cooling system - radiator inside and outside for plugging. Replace the condenser for a lot of bent fins or clean it out. Lots of threads on here to help with that.
3500GMC
What T F, over
Ah HAAA.
Thanks for the suggestions.
OK, Now I know exactly the cause of all the racket this poor creature was making. If you want to hear what TWO (#1,2) rod bearings do when they take a leave of absence, refer to post #1 of this thread... There was nothing left of either bearing. GONE. But the rod held together and the engine carried some oil pressure in the video and refused to grenade.
So, a preliminary parts assessment:
Crank, Not busted in two, very bad 1 & 2 journal, may clean up with a grind.
Rods, Probably will need 2 rods. (Anybody?)
Block, would you believe only ONE main web crack. Has a weird mark in a cylinder that will need looked at closer, as such with all others.
Heads, Possibly a bent valve or two from the piston smacking them due to no rod bearings in 1&2. Have not checked for cracks yet.
Cam, good.
Pistons, lots of galling, not reusable IMO.
I need an experienced Loc 'n' Stitch customer to tell me if the single block crack can be healed. This of course is pending upon a full cleaning and magnaflux to make sure that's the only one. If I have a a bore crack, I will sleeve it. Overall a good 599 block.
Thanks for the suggestions.
OK, Now I know exactly the cause of all the racket this poor creature was making. If you want to hear what TWO (#1,2) rod bearings do when they take a leave of absence, refer to post #1 of this thread... There was nothing left of either bearing. GONE. But the rod held together and the engine carried some oil pressure in the video and refused to grenade.
So, a preliminary parts assessment:
Crank, Not busted in two, very bad 1 & 2 journal, may clean up with a grind.
Rods, Probably will need 2 rods. (Anybody?)
Block, would you believe only ONE main web crack. Has a weird mark in a cylinder that will need looked at closer, as such with all others.
Heads, Possibly a bent valve or two from the piston smacking them due to no rod bearings in 1&2. Have not checked for cracks yet.
Cam, good.
Pistons, lots of galling, not reusable IMO.
I need an experienced Loc 'n' Stitch customer to tell me if the single block crack can be healed. This of course is pending upon a full cleaning and magnaflux to make sure that's the only one. If I have a a bore crack, I will sleeve it. Overall a good 599 block.
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NVW
Well-Known Member
Damn, that's what I said in post 17. Maybe mine sounds better.:nonod:
3500GMC
What T F, over
Carnage
More post mortem... Note the red markings on the piston and the valve imprint on it. Got two like that. 1 & 2 were just flinging around in there with no rod bearings.
Crank is junk. Mic'd the 1 & 2 journals, finding the smallest dia. (they're nice and egg shaped) .0565 smaller than a good journal. I don't know of any .060 under bearings!
Engine was totally used up. Compression ring gaps are around .067"-.070"
More post mortem... Note the red markings on the piston and the valve imprint on it. Got two like that. 1 & 2 were just flinging around in there with no rod bearings.
Crank is junk. Mic'd the 1 & 2 journals, finding the smallest dia. (they're nice and egg shaped) .0565 smaller than a good journal. I don't know of any .060 under bearings!
Engine was totally used up. Compression ring gaps are around .067"-.070"
Attachments
3500GMC
What T F, over
Rod bearings, hmmm
I found my two missing rod bearings. :smile5:
.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=voWznWkNAcM
I found my two missing rod bearings. :smile5:
.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=voWznWkNAcM
turbovanman
I has boost, :O)
I would be looking for another engine, this one is going to be costly to rebuild. You'll need some rods, new pistons, crank, block repaired, lifters and maybe a cam, plus heads maybe? Ouch, :sad:
Reminds me of the engine I am working on, lube shop didn't fill it up properly, customer lasted 5 hours before it let go, crank was ground down to nothing, bearings fubared, etc. Amen for insurance company's, ):h
Reminds me of the engine I am working on, lube shop didn't fill it up properly, customer lasted 5 hours before it let go, crank was ground down to nothing, bearings fubared, etc. Amen for insurance company's,
):h
3500GMC
What T F, over
Attachments
Ouch! I would throw the towel in on that one. Way too much wrong to start fixing. You could get a military take out that is guarenteed from this place for a little over $1000. http://www.boyceequipment.com/
3500GMC
What T F, over
Visited my local engine shop, they don't want to touch the cracked main web in my block. They are familiar with the lock & stitch inserts.
The 6.2 heads on the shelf at this same shop turned out to be the SAME castings (567) as my cracked heads. Only thing is, they are CRACKED too. :mad2: They're even ready to go with new springs, seals and valve job.......
This is starting to hurt.
The 6.2 heads on the shelf at this same shop turned out to be the SAME castings (567) as my cracked heads. Only thing is, they are CRACKED too. :mad2: They're even ready to go with new springs, seals and valve job.......
This is starting to hurt.
davo727
Member
Yeah these things are frustrating
chevyCowboy
I might be crazy but i ain't dumb
that crack is not repairable with the FullToruqe inserts. Missy who knows the most about the process condemed my 599 with a crack that looked just like that. after all the work iv done on mine that still aint together i would have bought the motor from boycee. they guarentee it to run (so you could just drop it in) i asked if i tore it down and found cracks if they would replace it they said they would same goes for heads. they had a few 6.5s a couple months back they thought they would get more but they have a lot of 6.2s
