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Will my plans work as well as I hope?

Dw89xj

Dw89xj

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Messages
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Location
Newville Pennsylvania
Okay I'm swapping a 6.2 in place of my 350 in an 87 suburban. My plan is to use the 6.5 lift pump in place of the stock TBI fuel filter. Knock out the restrictor in the filler neck. Manual glow plugs. Regular fuel filter setup like on equipment. Install the diesel rad and call it macaroni. Is it this simple? Will the gas supply line be enough volume for the IP? What about the factory return, can I just block it and be done? Or do I need get the actual diesel pickup? I'm getting the whole drive line engine to transfer case, its a th400. I'm also getting the hydro boost setup. So is my thinking that other than basic Chevy swapping, will bit be as easy as I'm thinking or is there something more difficult I'm not seeing or overlooking? Thanks for any help. It seems almost too simple.
 
I am doing a similar thing...just in a 96 tahoe.... I am thinking about getting a diesel sending unit for the tank, just to get rid of the fuel pump in the tank. Hydraulic brake booster will be needed, but I am thinking that it will be a simple bolt on swap. Let me know how it goes.... I am not very far along yet myself... still rebuilding the 6.2. I am expecting it to be harder than I think it will be, but half the reason I am doing it is for the challenge
 
Welcome to The Truck Stop by the way! There is some great information on here, just ask and you will find someone that has some input on any problem.
 
I'm hoping its going to be as easy as I think. In my mind it works out to be about as hard as replacing the engine and trans. The guy I'm getting my swap from has the complete 87 truck there, being as I have an 87 also it seems like a no brainer. I'm just unsure on whether I can just plug the stock return. I planned on removing the in tank pump and just extending the pickup to work.
 
Diesel's have to have a return.

It's not like a gasoline system. Its a hydraulic type mechanism only injects some and returns some from left over mechanical strokes/pumps etc from the IP and injectors. The IP also receives a little excess to ensure the injection pump is overfed for the hydraulic mechanisms so it doesn't have any air. It uses some diesel fuel for timing mechanism and acts as lube and cooling. It recirculates this excess to the tank in design.
 
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First call your dmv and make sure they allow it. Some places do, others dont.

This is doable fairly easy as long as the IP-Injection Pump- is a manual one- db2. Is will have a throttle cable like a carburetor would. Take a pic of your engine top center and we can tell you.

So like Schiker said, you need the return. Supply should be 3/8, 1/4" return. But the return line actually has to go down to the bottom of the tank like the supply side, it can't just drop into the top. It has to do with keeping air out if the return fuel line- wierd but some learned the hard way trying to fix their diesels. I think gasoline tanks it just dumps in the top but can't remember.

I think the factory pump would fit, but they are junk. The best is the AC Delco ep158. If you do it, get this one. Dont try to save $10 for a cheaper one, or spend $100 on a "high performance" with the same design The Delco last longest and keep pressure up close to spec.the best. A much better answer would be a walbro or the like. No matter the LP -Lift Pump- choice, consider a fuel pressure gauge after the FFM -Fuel Filter Manager - and before the IP. The FFM holds the fuel filter, heater and is the water separator- cant use just a gasoline filter.

Do not use starting fluid on these engines. Many have been destroyed from it. Get a good temperature gauge, and dont go over 220. You'll see many factory gauges that have a red zone higher, but many engines died from that.

Do a thread with pictures along the way, and ask anything you are not 100% sure on. A little hiccup can be turned into a massive problem, or go through no problem depending how it is handled.

Are you familiar with glow plug systems? What about bleeding air from fuel lines?

There are a few parts to check on the new engine before it goes in. Easier to swap while out if they need replacing soon anyways.- Harmonic balancer is an engine killer on this. Starter brace. More later
 
I was planning on replacing the balancer while its out and addressing any leaks or other issues.
As far as glow plug system I've replaced plugs and controller on 7.3 but was just planning on a manual setup on this.
I'm in Pennsylvania and will be exempt for emmisions mostly because of mileage partially because of weight class.
I've never bled the fuel system on a 6.2 but I've spent plenty of time bleeding equipment at work from guys running them out of fuel so I have a little bit of an idea but by no means am I master or going to claim I know how because I've just never had a 6.2.
As far as ether I avoid it at all costs, that's one of the first things I learned in diesel technology in highschool, but that's also been 15 plus years ago. I have aquantences who's trucks won't start without a shot of ether I'm assuming cylinders a scarred and loss in compression from using it so much.
I haven't picked up my swap yet but its coming from an 87 v20 pickup that was a fleet or plant truck, it is a jasper reman with approximately 80k on the clock. The gentleman said I can take anything that makes the swap easier.
So can I use the gasser return line or should I just invest in new supply and return?. And thank you for the tip I will more than likely use the delco lift pump.
 
I was going to use a filter setup similar to the ones on equipment. I'm sure cat fuel filters will be around for a long time. Or would I be better to just use the factory setup?
 
Also it sounds like if I can use the gasser return I will at least need the pickup and sender from diesel to get the return to the bottom so I'm not aerating the fuel. Sounds fairly simple aside from a few small details that can become big issues. Thank you guys again this is the type of information I'm looking for. Also eventually I will be going turbo with either a 6.5 setup or something homebrew using the banks manifold, this will be a ways down the road and will be a different thread when I get there. I will definitely be taking plenty of pictures as I progress and get my parts cleaned up gathered and installed. Thank you guys again.
 
Cool, yeah the filter calls for 5 micron. Just keep in mind fitering finer or through larger filters requires a more powerful LP, and these are weak when new.

Many like to go for bigger, better spin on fuel filters in place of the factory one, best is pre filter, heater, water separator, LP, seconday filter.

The doorman balancers suck, avoid them. Fluid damper is the best and lasts forever, but $$. Consider a front main seal while you are swapping it, easy at that point and cheap.

Engine from that truck will have a db2, so thats what you want.

Glow plugs either bosch duraterm 80034 or AC Delco 60G. They are the only self limiting ones that wont swell up from cooking too long. The factory glow plug controller should be on the engine when you get it. Add this to he factory solenoid and a simple switch for manual control: http://leroydiesel.com/products/leroys-glow-plug-relay-override/

I would actually pull the old glowplugs out and leave them out for the install. When its time to bleed,you can crank engine so fast without compression youll have it done in no time. Then antisieze on the thread and they are installed in a couple minutes with no turbo in the way.

The 2 wire temp sensor already in the head feeding the controller is all thats needed for temperature controlled glow plug action if you go that way.
 
Depends on the diesel engine your friends trucks have. Some handle ether better than others: and the glow plug or air intake heater systems better be dead or disabled. Otherwise them catching themselves on fire WILL be a viral Youtube video I will find hilarious: because it's only funny till someone gets hurt! Bottom line is only use ether on a 6.2 or 6.5 if the glows are disabled and you don't care if you need to replace it because the light duty IDI can't handle it very well.

With enough RPM and good hot glow plugs these engines will start. Otherwise something isn't working and needs attention. You need 100 COLD and 150 RPM HOT or FORGET ABOUT STARTING! Gas engines barley move and the spark can fire it and start: not on a diesel.

Have you ever driven a "Can't get out of it's own way" Naturally Aspirated 6.2? Your 350 has more power when it ran. To match the HP of the 350 you need the turbo setup. To prepare for a future turbo setup you need to replace the original 6.2 head gaskets with the modern 6.5 head gaskets and look to short higher pop pressure 6.5 injectors. The old HG's may contain asbestos.

What exactly are you dropping in again? Frankly 6.2 is not telling us the following things YOU need to know:
1) How many miles on injectors as they are toast in 80-100K miles? Cheap, hard to get a good source like Leroy diesel for them, and use the short 6.5 style with higher pop pressure to clear the future turbo.
2) Block number like 599?
3) Condition: remove the heads and the oil pan. Inspect pistons, inspect mains for cracks, replace rings. Suggest gapless for less blowby and being able to see the marks on the dipstick through the oil at 3000 miles (not normal for these engine w/o gapless rings). Rings are subject to overheating damage loosing their tension and normal wear from all the carbon these dirty engines eat both causing blowby. Deglaze the cylinders and new rings are the only thing required sometimes outside of gaskets.
4) Replace the timing chain. GM allows slop of 0.8" only because it wasn't up to the job of driving the IP and stretches out pretty good even with only 30K miles on them. Timing gear sets are available from Leroy Diesel to cure this deficient GM design.

Cracks are what kill these engines both head cracks and main bearing saddle cracks. Heads are easy. IMO I don't remove the crankshaft when deglazing the cylinders as the stress from the main bearing bolts would change making cracks worse or starting them. It's said @Will L. any oil pressure concerns look at the cam bearings first. Rod bearing condition will tell you if you need new main bearings.

When in the fuel tank - loose the sock as it's nothing but trouble esp with a pre lift pump filter in use.

Last look at peninsular diesel for a adjustable glow plug controller that is set it and forget it with self regulating plugs like Duraterms or 60G's.
 
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Awesome I was looking at the fluidamper 420ish bucks doesn't seem to harsh for the assurance it gives. Im hoping to finally have a project I just do once and do it right.
 
Never had a 6.2 but I had a 7.3 and loved it, top speed was about 75 held flat but it would pull anything just slowly and got decent mileage as long as I stayed in the slow lane on the highway. Also the swap is going into a 87 suburban, coming from an 87 v20 pickup.
 
I don't need a speed demon just enough to run 60 to 65mph on the highway and 55 or so while towing
, I won't be towing anything heavier than a suburban on a car trailer. Its mostly going to be my hunting and camping rig. I'm in a wheelchair so while I'm camping being able to start it and let it run to charge lights or to have heat while I'm hunting, well I guess more so waiting than hunting, and barely using fuel is a huge plus.
 
Dw89xj said:
Never had a 6.2 but I had a 7.3 and loved it, top speed was about 75 held flat but it would pull anything just slowly and got decent mileage as long as I stayed in the slow lane on the highway. Also the swap is going into a 87 suburban, coming from an 87 v20 pickup.
Click to expand...

The 7.3 had it's problems, but, it's a Heavy Duty Diesel with significantly more power and TQ than the under-powered 6.2 for NA ratings. The 6.2 is a Light Duty Diesel in a Light to Heavy Duty application. Only the turbo 6.5's ratings go over the 7.3 in turbo flavors.

A 6.5 is just a punched out 6.2 so IMO it's irrelevant 6.2 or 6.5 as I have a 6.2 rat rod with a giant A Team Turbo and high Stall Yank Converter to light off the big turbo leaving the light at 2000 RPM.

Towing, I suggest you add head studs and start with any turbo. Yeah NA 6.2 towing is a smoke belching miserable experience.

You WILL NOT get 55 MPH towing with any sort of a ant hill let alone a grade NA and 43 MPH with a GMx turbo.

http://www.maxxtorque.com/2012/07/the-65l-diesel-factory-equipped-asthma.html
 
It will be very rare that I tow but when I do I want to know I have the torque to do it. I don't necessarily need to go fast as long as I can run 55 or so on the highway. Also I have 3.73 gears and won't be running any larger than a 33. Right now I have 245 65 16 but when I need tires I won't be going larger than a 33, p78 buckshot mudder to be .kre specific. Most of my driving will be back roads and dirt roads here locally but maybe 3 or 4 times a year I'll be making a 4 to 6 hour trip. I'm basing my 4 hours on when I was a kid it was 55mph speed limit everywhere and that's how long it took to get to our family cabin and my paps old wore Chevy van probably didn't hold 55 too well.
 
Which turbo would you recommend? I've been reading a little about guys using the hx35 instead of gm turbo. But I also realize the 6.2 wasn't designed for turbo so I know I don't want to over boost it. I'm fine with being slow but I don't want to be so slow I become a hazard on the rare occasion I need to use the highway.
 
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