Big T
Well-Known Member
Suburban K2500?
Plenty of replacement foam and seat cover options for the ‘95-‘99 seats, but zilch for the ‘94.
Plenty of replacement foam and seat cover options for the ‘95-‘99 seats, but zilch for the ‘94.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
I have seats from a 96 in my 94. I don't recollect what all was involved. It wasn't terrible
96 K1500 gasser Suburban to 94 K3500, crew cab, long bed.I have seats from a 96 in my 94. I don't recollect what all was involved. It wasn't terrible.
our Chevy house used to be able to look up exploded parts diagrams. not sure if they still keep the records back that far.96 K1500 gasser Suburban to 94 K3500, crew cab, long bed.
It's too bad GM doesn't have a parts schematics page available like Toro does.
That is a good question. I do know that after 96 there were many different designs of seat rails and mounting points. I had gotten a set from a pick a part yard out of a 97 to go into my 95 and found the seats mount differnt. the seats also had built in seatbelts which I didn't like. ended up selling them and keeping my original ones.
I honestly don't know for sure. I haven't tried fitting anything in a 94, but I would think anything that doesn't have the build in seatbelts would work. worst thing would be just having to drill and make extra mounts in the floor for the seat rails.Are you saying the ‘96 would be a
closer fit to the ‘94? ‘95 even a closer fit?
You have to be specific with grade 5 or grade 8.lol not all yota seats are comfortable my wife at one time was looking to buy a compact car, I think it was a yaris or some such. I said "Oh Hell Naw" I was hurting after the test drive. those felt like I was sitting on a board!! I guess the 4runner I had since it was a sport edition had their luxury style seats lol
Yes I agree. you don't want to just drill and run a bolt. if going that route it is a MUST to secure them with a grade 8 bolt and at least a 3" flat plate steel under there for safety.
getting the original seats redone if the frame and tracks are still in good shape is the best route.
just for reference metric grade 8.8 is equivilant to grade 5 and for 10.9 is close to grade 8. lol break off a 12.9 metric bolt, say a prayer and sent to a specialist to perform a miracle haha.You have to be specific with grade 5 or grade 8.
There are some applications grade 5 is good but yes grade 8 is the better option.
It isn’t you breaking it during installjust for reference metric grade 8.8 is equivilant to grade 5 and for 10.9 is close to grade 8. lol break off a 12.9 metric bolt, say a prayer and sent to a specialist to perform a miracle haha.
It might depend on what it's out ofAre you saying the ‘96 would be a
closer fit to the ‘94? ‘95 even a closer fit?
I was surprised at the poor rating of seatbelts.It isn’t you breaking it during install
It is if it snaps in a crash.
Things like race car rules say grade 8 because the bolt is going through steel or chrome alloy.
But Pickups and cars have steel alloy sheet metal. Then I t gets backed up usually by mild steel hot roll plate. So in a crash the bolt snapping under shear is the concern. Thats why GM, Ford,Dodge, etc almost all say use grade 5 when adding seat belt and seat mounts in up fitting.
But if you do racing they want grade 8 eye bolts for seat belts because the seatbelts mounting tabs are made of the bend & stretch not snap material.
The latter agencies talk a lot of crap about safety. I've wondered for years how much of a difference good restraint and better seats would make.Thats why racing belts are so different- they are tested for surviving a serious crash.