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which starter to buy ????

Wire ampacity and number of strands

The problem is, right after a glow cycle the batteries have taken a hit on voltage, so sheer amperage has to drive a cold starter and engine. Let's just say, I wouldn't go *smaller* with battery cables.... !!

Also the number of strands (very few and coarse in OEM) have a direct effect on Ampacity in wire. The same gauge wire as OEM- but with more strands of copper will carry more currant with less resistance.
 
I live just north of Kansas City. Truck gets driven every day rain or snow; all the time spent blasting & powder coating engine tin & brackets at rebuild time does make it/keep it looking nice. FWIW - I find the aerosol cans of pickup bed liner excellent for refurbishing the black material of the rad shroud, airbox, etc.

With lower compression & needing it to start reliably in winter temps, I put some thought & $ into starter/batts etc. The Diehard Platinum P4 AGM batteries are also a significant reason it cranks fast; they're expensive but good - if they actually last the 2-3x normal batt life claimed, then they'll be a reasonable bargain - time will tell)
(relabelled Odyssey battery - http://odysseybatteries.com/

Have got new/heavy batt cables but haven't installed/cut to length, as I plan to move the batt location(s) sometime this winter; there's been no rush as it spins over pretty good as is.

It's been nearly a year since this conversation took place. How long has your Powermaster been in? I've read a comment or two about reliability issues. Mine seems to be getting a little weak. I am guessing it's been on the engine 8 years, maybe, since I had it rebuilt. Any issues, to date?
 
The Powermaster starter has been in for somewhere btwn 4-5 years(~40k miles).

Had an issue with starter bolts working loose, & then snapped one. Guess that's happened with the stock starters also,...but still an issue. Starter itself is still cranking the engine well/fast & hasn't shown any issues from breaking the bolt (figure it worked them loose, when one bolt got to the point of falling out, it then snapped the other one).

I really should have investigated when I thought the last start (previous to bolt breaking) sounded different. The truck's ignition switch needed replaced & would occasionally not cleany open the switch so I figured that was the cause, but in retrospect, it was the starter on loosened bolts.

Reinstalled with new bolts (like I should have done originally) & checking they're tight at every oil change now, as well as checking the starter end support bracket.
 
Last month I got stranded in a grocery store parking lot, starter went. Van always has been hard to start especially hot, it was the starter all along. Before it finally quit I put in Sears Platinum AGM (880 CCA) and made up double 0 cables. Made no difference in starting.
Because I was stuck in a parking lot I had to go with the local CarQuest Mexico rebuilt. First one I installed had a stripped out stud for the support bracket that goes to the block. Of course that was the last bolt I tightened. Took it back out, waited a couple more hours for them to get another, installed it and found out the stud for the small wire on the solenoid was way too long and caused a dead short by touching the main 2/0 positive cable when I re-hooked the batts, out it came again to get trimmed. I did get an audience there in the parking lot including the cops.
Moral of the story is; 1. old starter sounded ok speed wise but the 6.5 sure is fussy with crank speed, 2. Mexico part store rebuilds are garbage-I could have got a Brand New Delco cheaper at rockauto.
Now she fires instantly hot or cold. I touch the key and let go, it's running!
 
I'm using a car quest starter.

I do not recommend their rebuilt units. I went through three of them within a year for the same "click click" problem. All replaced free of charge (except my labor and pita factor). Basically, solenoid failures. I suspect they were reusing ones that check out good on a test bench, but still had pitted main contacts inside. Any kind of cold weather below 0 c brought out the problem with a vengeance. Solenoids all!looked new, but a fresh coat of cad plating always looks new...

Last one I pulled and went to thier "new" unit. All new, electrics and casings so they say. No used or rebuilt parts. Was 20 or 30 dollars more than a rebuilt iirc. Been a few months now in well below 0 c weather (-15/-20) and working fine. We'll see if it continues to perform.

Side note: all carquest starters and alternators are sourced from BBB industries, other wise know as the Biggler Bros. Last I checked, all their rebuilt and new units came out of mexico. They used to do them in Tennessee I believe, but moved south some time ago. They carry CARQUEST part numbers starting "WRE".
 
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