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What's the best way to clean a DB2 pump without disassembly?

Before I took the pump off of the engine that I'm trying to run on an engine stand, I took the top off of the pump to make sure that the shut off solenoid and related mechanisms were working properly. With probably 5 lbs of lift pump pressure it would fill the pump but when I turned the engine over with two batteries and the starter it would not pump fuel out of the injectors lines. So I'm going to rig up a lift pump that I can adjust pressure from 5 to 100 lbs and pump ATF at 20-25 lbs while spinning the pump with a drill. I have a bracket made to hold the pump in a vice for tear down. I will put some clear vinyl hose on the fittings where the injector lines go and tie wrap run into a bucket just in case I'm successful after letting ATF sit in the pump for a week or so I guess. Oh, I've heard that 2 stroke engine oil is good to run through diesel fuel systems, let me know if any opinions on that. Thx
 
I run 2stroke in mine just about every tank.makes her run better and a little quieter
Yup, me too.. I am never sure just how much to add so if the fueling tank is down to about a half, dump in about a 1/4 of a quart.
I order in the walmart brand of that special stuff, something with a 2 in it or some such. 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️😹😹😹
 
Ok guys, I've got the DB2 pump rigged up with a electric pump with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator set at 20 lbs with it's own return line going back into a gallon of ATF. I have a piece of 1/4" clear vinyl going into the pump inlet along with 8 4 ft long 3/8" clear lines going into a 5 gallon bucket from the injector line fittings, do I need to T a 1/4" line from the top of the pump to the supply line going into the pump inlet? Does the cold advance solenoid control the flow through the 1/4" fitting on the top of the pump? Oh I guess I forgot to mention that I have a battery drill rigged up to spin the pump, I would think that while I am supplying fuel or ATF in this case to the inlet I need to spin the pump with the shut off solenoid powered up and the throttle in the wide open position?
 
Here's some pics of what I'm doing...I'm not getting any fluid coming out of the top of the pump, then I got to thinking, when installed on a engine the excess fuel coming from the injectors is what is feeding this line, back into the top of the pump, correct?
 

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I cant see smaller pics well, and when I click on them they barely get bigger on my phone. So trying to zoom in....

I can’t tell, did you run 12v power wire to the fso and a ground wire the the housing?

unless it is a custom built pump- 5 psi is all you want.

The return line on top that we always say use clear tubing- that is the ouput return from the pump. So run that into the bucket also. No, the injectors don’t feed into the ip there- the “waste” or excess fuel all join together and go back to the tank.

BE SERIOUSLY CAREFUL WITH THE 8 “INJECTOR LINES”. You are pumping like 5, 000 psi potential. Like, have them go into a bucket then put a towel on top of them to stop any splash. Dont get behind the pump incase a line pops off.
 
Out of curiosity @Will L. You said the nipple on top is basically a return to tank line? Assume that's why we use clear tube to see if air went through the pump then? Guess that makes sense...
So I'd the nipple in the middle of the octopus the fuel "in" line?
 
The fitting on top is the return. It has a spring loaded check ball built into it to create housing pressure. The HPCA solenoid pushes the check ball open to lower housing pressure and advance timing. You should just run a hose back to the bucket from the return fitting.

Its going to take 10 minutes of spinning to work the air out of the pump and see fluid come out the return fitting
 
Yes I have 12 volt power and ground going to the FSOS, also have the throttle to wide open. I can't get any fluid to flow out of the fitting on the top of the pump, I just have this hose going into the bucket along with the other 8 hoses, and I'm really not getting much fluid out of the 8 injector line hoses either but I kinda expected that. I took the top of the pump off and it's filled but no fluid is coming out of the return fitting on top of the pump, I even attached a outboard engine fuel pump ball to try and suck fuel out of the top of the pump but this didn't work either. If the check valve is designed to hold pressure in the top of the pump then I don't think it could be the higher pressure that I am putting into the pump causing the check valve not to open. I can easily turn the inlet pressure down to like 5 lbs but I just thought a little higher inlet pressure may help with what I'm trying to do.
 
Well I ran the drill for about 15 minutes on the pump and I got some fluid to peak out the return line hose but it still didn't flow up and over the hump in the hose and down into the bucket. When I operate the throttle open I can feel and hear the load on the drill change, but it's still just spitting fluid out of the injector line fittings. I believe I have the pump pretty much filled with ATF so I guess I'll let it set and see what happens.
 
It's barely spitting it out, when I had it on a engine I wouldn't get any fuel at the injector lines. I installed another IP on the engine and it performed as expected, plenty of fuel at the injectors and it drops a cylinder if I crack open an injector line. Here is a couple of pics of the pressure regulator gauge and a gauge in the transfer pump port on the pump. I want to give the ATF a chance to work, I'll shoot a video in the near future. But when I try to turn the pressure regulator down to 5 psi or lower the gauge on the pump is showing 20 lbs without the IP pump turning or the FSOS on. I got this idea from Mel at Conestoga when he said I let the pump he built that sat in my air conditioned house with calibration fluid didn't work. This is not that pump, I'm just experimenting here I just thought I would try it and I would think that the pump would put out more fuel than it is, and Mel told me that a drill was fast enough to flush a DB2 out.
 

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