I have a DB2 pump that is on a motor that has been sitting for some time, the engine was pulled several years ago and ran fine but now I can't get any fuel out of the injector line ports. I removed the top and the shut off solenoid and linkage is working properly and it's getting fuel.
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What's the best way to clean a DB2 pump without disassembly?
- Thread starter spdgofast
- Start date
Big T
Well-Known Member
Buy a new one. That’s what we had to do with a working DB4 that sat on the engine for years: fuel would not run through it.
Rockabillyrat
SlIgHtLy StUpId.
Is the pump still on the engine? If so Remove it, then tip it upside down with the top cover off and let it drain. Other than that, you have to disassemble it to fully clean out the inside.
Is it not starting? If so it may need a rebuild. I know a guy that does DB2 pumps
Is it not starting? If so it may need a rebuild. I know a guy that does DB2 pumps
Rockabillyrat
SlIgHtLy StUpId.
You might be able to drain it and fill it with a heavy fuel system cleaner. IF something is stuck that might free it up. But if the pump has a internal issue then you need to spin it on a bench to see whats going on with it.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Would a person power up the shut off solenoid, or, just remove it, before spinning the pump.
Can it be hand spun or would it be better with a drill or some other mechanical device ?
Rockabillyrat
SlIgHtLy StUpId.
I dont see why you couldn't spin it with a drill.
If I was going to attempt to try something like that I would remove the top cover. Fill the pump with a fuel cleaner then spin it with the drill. Even better would be to rig up a small supply pump to the inlet fitting that way you could get the the cleaner into the pumping chambers.
Spinning it by hand probably wont be fast enough to create enough transfer pump pressure to move the plungers
If I was going to attempt to try something like that I would remove the top cover. Fill the pump with a fuel cleaner then spin it with the drill. Even better would be to rig up a small supply pump to the inlet fitting that way you could get the the cleaner into the pumping chambers.
Spinning it by hand probably wont be fast enough to create enough transfer pump pressure to move the plungers
Rockabillyrat
SlIgHtLy StUpId.
I'm sure you could try the same thing with a DS4. You won't be able to pulse the fuel solenoid. But it will still push cleaner into the pumping chambers.
They should turn nice and easy. If its hard to turn then there is something wrong with the pump. Although I have pulled apart a locked up pump and cleaned the H&R and it turned great after that.
They should turn nice and easy. If its hard to turn then there is something wrong with the pump. Although I have pulled apart a locked up pump and cleaned the H&R and it turned great after that.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
I was thinking on the DS4 pump that it might have to be hooked to the PMD in order for fuel to flow through.
If so, easiest would most likely be to disconnect harnesses from the pump that is already mounted to the timing cover, hook the harnesses to the pump that needs flushed, turn the ignition switch to run then spin the pump with a drill.
A separate container of transmission fluid and lift pump would need to be hooked to the pump that needs to he flushed too.
If so, easiest would most likely be to disconnect harnesses from the pump that is already mounted to the timing cover, hook the harnesses to the pump that needs flushed, turn the ignition switch to run then spin the pump with a drill.
A separate container of transmission fluid and lift pump would need to be hooked to the pump that needs to he flushed too.
Rockabillyrat
SlIgHtLy StUpId.
Hey its worth a try. I have never attempted any of this myself. But it might do the trick to free up any sticking parts.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
I been telling some of the Ds4 hummer owners that want to store an ip for long term zombie day- if it is new it will have the pure oil test fluid in it. Some guys installed a new ip and want to keep the old working one “just in case”. So i tell them but a quart of straight 10 wt oil with no additives. Remove ffm fuel line and drop it in the oil bottle. Start the engine until it is running on it. Yeah, it might smoke a little and run rough. Then shut it off, pull the ip, store it in a metal sealing ammo can and get rid of oxygen with either vacuum pump or expel air with argon. Adding a gauge to the container to see on the shelf if it needs attention over the years. I’ve delt with long term parts storage for rare cars and learned a trick or two.
I'm afraid to screw with my spare.. it literally only has a couple hundred miles on it..(long story) buddy gave it to me .. it's been sitting around for a couple years.. what kind of fluid should I dump down in it ? What cleaner I mean . Or just atf maybe?
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
With a gear on the pump, and held on with the nut, can You hook the drill to the nut and spin it with that ?
If the nut is thick enough.
One thing I have done, install two or more nuts onto a bolt then weld the nuts together to build a sort of a connector nut.
That would give plenty of room to hook the drill to.
Just make sure all the flats are in alignment and that there is no tension on the threads of the nuts, not having them jammed together.
If the nut is thick enough.
One thing I have done, install two or more nuts onto a bolt then weld the nuts together to build a sort of a connector nut.
That would give plenty of room to hook the drill to.
Just make sure all the flats are in alignment and that there is no tension on the threads of the nuts, not having them jammed together.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Do not try to just spin the nut onto the shaft without the gear then spinning it.
That might cause the nut to thread deeper onto the shaft. If the shaft is real hard should not be a problem until time to remove the nut.
That might cause the nut to thread deeper onto the shaft. If the shaft is real hard should not be a problem until time to remove the nut.
Rockabillyrat
SlIgHtLy StUpId.
I would buy pump calibration fluid ISO 4113 and submerge the pump in a sealed container with it. Keep it in a dry temperature controlled room and it should be fine for a long while.
What ever you do make sure the drill is centered to the input shaft. Too much side load could cause issues. My calibration bench uses a anti backlash coupler and rubber washers on the drive shaft adapter to give everything a little bit a wiggle room while I'm spinning it. But I'm also spinning my pumps up to 2500rpm.
What ever you do make sure the drill is centered to the input shaft. Too much side load could cause issues. My calibration bench uses a anti backlash coupler and rubber washers on the drive shaft adapter to give everything a little bit a wiggle room while I'm spinning it. But I'm also spinning my pumps up to 2500rpm.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Thats a great idea submerged in the fluid, so simple.
I just remembered back in 2019 I sold ak diesel driver a GM new DS4 with like 500 miles on it that had sat on my shop shelf here in Florida and he had a problem getting it to run right and he told me he ran Bio diesel through it and it cleaned it out and ran fine as far as I know. I don't have access to Bio diesel so I'm going to try ATF I guess.
Rockabillyrat
SlIgHtLy StUpId.
Oh I didn't even think about biodiesel. That cleans the fuel system very well!!