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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

OK pulled the driver’s side upper control arm (UCA) and the knockouts have already been removed.
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The front rear one still has a tiny tit piece of the old knockout. I guess I could go at it with a dremel.

The alignment shop thought the cam bolt or washer was stripped and they were spot on. It was the rear bolt and the rear cam washer was stripped, while the front part of the bolt was on its way. Given that the Caster was -0.4 and spec is 2.0 to 4.0, the ball joint needs to be moved forward and that is done with the rear cam bolt.

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dbrannon79 said:
New cam bolts and washers I would say. I would also take a drimmel and clean out the slots where the knockouts were. looks like the one you posted still has some material in there that would prevent the bolt from sliding in the slot

View attachment 97743
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I used a dremel to grind down the remaining knockout tit on the left side of the hole:

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UCA’s got new Moog HD Cam Bolts and Washers:


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Now it is ready for another alignment. Drove it around and it drives nice and straight with no pull.
 
Big T said:
Driver’s side door latch rod dislodged from the interior door handle (a first) and was pulled up by the window. Took about 20 minutes to fix this. Not sure how this happened. Whole thing is a POS at this point.
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I have a terrible disliking for door panel removal and latch/lock parts replacement.
Left Outside door release on My 2000 has a crack and the frame around that handle is slightly floppy.
I know at some time it will have to come apart, by then maybe I could afford to take it to the body shop.
 
Noticed the passenger side low-beam was dead. Seems I just put in bulbs but, after a records search, I purchased them in Dec of 2023 so, considering how long Halogens last, about normal lifespan. Unfortunately, only a 1 year warranty so, no joy there.
Replacing bulbs has always been a grill and headlight housing removal/replace thing since the assembly screws never seem to work. But, this time, they did so the swap was simple. I checked alignment afterwards and they were unchanged.

Additionally, last April I had addressed a leaking output shaft seal on the transfer case by replacing the seal. Easy do thing as one only has to drop the drive shaft, knock the old seal out with a rubber mallet and screwdriver, clean things up inside the transfer case and mop up the fluid spills, seat the new seal and replace the shaft.

Well, in November I noticed it had started leaking again and since I'd taken a fall which damaged my shoulder, which created movement / strength issues, I have delayed getting around to it until yesterday. Mechanic friend had suggested I check for drive shaft movement at the transfer case as that would indicated internal issues. Nope, everything's solid, no lateral movement.
Yesterday was a nicer day temp wise and the shoulder felt game so, new seal installed and fingers crossed it lasts a little longer this time.
 
Paveltolz said:
Noticed the passenger side low-beam was dead. Seems I just put in bulbs but, after a records search, I purchased them in Dec of 2023 so, considering how long Halogens last, about normal lifespan. Unfortunately, only a 1 year warranty so, no joy there.
Replacing bulbs has always been a grill and headlight housing removal/replace thing since the assembly screws never seem to work. But, this time, they did so the swap was simple. I checked alignment afterwards and they were unchanged.

Additionally, last April I had addressed a leaking output shaft seal on the transfer case by replacing the seal. Easy do thing as one only has to drop the drive shaft, knock the old seal out with a rubber mallet and screwdriver, clean things up inside the transfer case and mop up the fluid spills, seat the new seal and replace the shaft.

Well, in November I noticed it had started leaking again and since I'd taken a fall which damaged my shoulder, which created movement / strength issues, I have delayed getting around to it until yesterday. Mechanic friend had suggested I check for drive shaft movement at the transfer case as that would indicated internal issues. Nope, everything's solid, no lateral movement.
Yesterday was a nicer day temp wise and the shoulder felt game so, new seal installed and fingers crossed it lasts a little longer this time.
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I've had some seal quality issues the past decade or so.
It's really frustrating to swap a seal and then have to do it again.
 
Paveltolz said:
Noticed the passenger side low-beam was dead. Seems I just put in bulbs but, after a records search, I purchased them in Dec of 2023 so, considering how long Halogens last, about normal lifespan. Unfortunately, only a 1 year warranty so, no joy there.
Replacing bulbs has always been a grill and headlight housing removal/replace thing since the assembly screws never seem to work. But, this time, they did so the swap was simple. I checked alignment afterwards and they were unchanged.

Additionally, last April I had addressed a leaking output shaft seal on the transfer case by replacing the seal. Easy do thing as one only has to drop the drive shaft, knock the old seal out with a rubber mallet and screwdriver, clean things up inside the transfer case and mop up the fluid spills, seat the new seal and replace the shaft.

Well, in November I noticed it had started leaking again and since I'd taken a fall which damaged my shoulder, which created movement / strength issues, I have delayed getting around to it until yesterday. Mechanic friend had suggested I check for drive shaft movement at the transfer case as that would indicated internal issues. Nope, everything's solid, no lateral movement.
Yesterday was a nicer day temp wise and the shoulder felt game so, new seal installed and fingers crossed it lasts a little longer this time.
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Sorry to hear about your fall resulting in a damaged shoulder.

Sucks on the LED light going out. Aren’t those things rated for like 20K hours?

Good luck on the transfer case output seal. I take it the lack of winter weather is allowing you to work on the truck. I will probably roll through there mid-May with a fully loaded Suburban. The snow pack is very poor right now, so I will have to fish early and often. Summer will be very tough this year.
 
Something I learned a while back, heat is the #1 killer on LED lights. lately I have seen a lot of aftermarket headlight bulbs that don't have the built in fan in the back. when we were looking for LED bulbs for my son's truck there were a load of them without fans for cooling. back when I got the sets for both of my trucks, they all had tiny fans on the back side. both sets have lasted a good while.

found that tv's that use LEDs for backlights tend to go out faster than the old fluorescent backlit screens do. I learned that turning the brightness down to about 50% on them help extend their life.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Something I learned a while back, heat is the #1 killer on LED lights. lately I have seen a lot of aftermarket headlight bulbs that don't have the built in fan in the back. when we were looking for LED bulbs for my son's truck there were a load of them without fans for cooling. back when I got the sets for both of my trucks, they all had tiny fans on the back side. both sets have lasted a good while.

found that tv's that use LEDs for backlights tend to go out faster than the old fluorescent backlit screens do. I learned that turning the brightness down to about 50% on them help extend their life.
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The lights he’s using are by Lasfit and they all have fans on them. Paveltolz is just hard on things😍
 
These are the replacement bulbs. They are the same rating as the previous ones but, these units utilize a pig-tail vs. direct plug in like the old ones. These also have a much larger fan.

60W 9006 HB4 LA Plus Series | 6,000LM 6000K LED Bulbs​



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Older style w/ direct plug in. Still used in some of their offerings.

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They have 100Watt 10,000LM and 130Watt 13,000LM options available. All are still 6000K
 
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