Big T
Well-Known Member
Applied the fabric paint to the seat and it came out pretty good….
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....
- Thread starter deejaaa
- Start date
Big T
Well-Known Member
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I bet it feels like a new ride, at least on the bottom side!
looks good.
looks good.
Big T
Well-Known Member
As you can see the old was getting ratty. It had 11 years and 394K miles on it. The replacement was from a 2018 with 88K miles on it, so the material and foam were in much better condition. The material faded because they left the seat in the wreck without the doors, exposed to weather for over 300 days. I would prefer to avoid that, but no new wrecks were showing up out west along the expanded routes between Montana and California. There were some other seats, but the salvagers wanted twice as much. So we ended up with this. I literally tossed the seatback and the frame for the seat bottom (rusty). I don’f have room to collect shit I will never use.
And yes, it feels pretty good. The original seatback had no issues with foam or material.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
on a lot of vehicles the drinkers side bottoms are interchangeable with the captains side. I did this swap on my ram 1500. on the next replacement you might get away with that if you can't find a decent drivers seat.
Big T
Well-Known Member
This is true for the foam and upholstery part. The cheaper salvage seats typically have the air bag blown in the seatback, but to date I have not used the seatback, only the seat bottom.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Dumb question for you guys.... on my 93, I might have mentioned it before but it's got a tappity tap tap sound that only appears under load accelerating. sound can at times get loud enough to mistake it for a knock but the sound will randomly fade in and then fade out quiet like when I am accelerating up onto the freeway. doesn't do it all the time and doesn't seem to matter if the engine is still cold or fully warm, it's just random.
I think it's coming from a lifter but donno. it's been doing this for several months now with no ill effects driving. I know this engine is slowly dieing, massive blow by and low compression, but it's still moving under it's own power quite well so I keep driving it LOL.
my question is what would you all think a tapping sound that is rhythmic to the RPM, sounds like a single lifter/rod/piston/ect.. and will randomly (sometimes it does it, sometimes it wont make any noise at all) fade from quiet to a worrysom tap tap tap TAP TAP... and then fade back out while still under load. and not seem to effect operation and do this for months without getting worse or better?
it's just a question that has been on my mind, just haven't put much thought into it.
I can't really put my phone on record or put a mic under the hood since you can't hear it unless your driving, ( you can really hear it driving next to a wall) maybe if I think about it, I can try to record with the windows down getting on the freeway where there is some construction barriers, hopefully I can catch it in the act LOL.
I think it's coming from a lifter but donno. it's been doing this for several months now with no ill effects driving. I know this engine is slowly dieing, massive blow by and low compression, but it's still moving under it's own power quite well so I keep driving it LOL.
my question is what would you all think a tapping sound that is rhythmic to the RPM, sounds like a single lifter/rod/piston/ect.. and will randomly (sometimes it does it, sometimes it wont make any noise at all) fade from quiet to a worrysom tap tap tap TAP TAP... and then fade back out while still under load. and not seem to effect operation and do this for months without getting worse or better?
it's just a question that has been on my mind, just haven't put much thought into it.
I can't really put my phone on record or put a mic under the hood since you can't hear it unless your driving, ( you can really hear it driving next to a wall) maybe if I think about it, I can try to record with the windows down getting on the freeway where there is some construction barriers, hopefully I can catch it in the act LOL.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Engine in my truck has a terrible noise. Almost like the injectors but after it warms sort of goes away.
With the limited abilities of my ears, it sounds like from the RH side.
I did make an attempt at doing a retorque on the exhaust manifolds after the new engine was in and runn ing but is where I failed on that attempt was I forgot to slightly back off the bolts to break the tension between the threads of the bolts and heads.
I do want to now get this retorque done but there is another project thats taken precedence over all else for another week or so.
Then I’ll clear the garage and get the truck in remove the right side inner fender and do a retorque on the manifolds.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
@dbrannon79
Doug, in my experience, once a guy knows his way around a these trucks a bit - his instincts as to what the noise is becomes correct 95% of the time.
Lifter tick in these can be a lifter loosing its prime, or a rocker button that has left the chat. But when it’s a rocker button that doesn’t generally come and go for an extended period of time.- is usually lefts the pushrod go visit new and exciting places before 1,000 miles is up. And you have had this for well beyond that time so my bet is one lifter is just feeling its age.
When the issue becomes more and prevalent- it will usually start ticking every morning with start up until a few seconds after oil pressure is built.
The guess about adding Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer or the opposite of trying to clean it out with Seafoam comes to mind. So hear is the thought process:
1. Leave alone and see vs mess with it -risk/ reward.
If it is mild and rare then leave it. If it happens and you feel impending doom and almost shut the engine off each time then worth the risk. You have to decide where the line is and go with one side or the other. Step 2 usually has impact here.
2. Cleaner vs sticky stuff to add.
First part is do you have good oil pressure in the engine. Testing it at the front right port where it feeds the turbo tells you what the lifters are getting- but since your turbo hasn’t already died from lack of oil- that generally says you have plenty of flow getting through to all the lifters. Unbolting the turbo so the exhaust cant spin it then undoing the oil line and putting an oil pressure gauge there has very rarely revealed the answer in my experience. i have put a T fitting in and left turbo working and got readings that way that made me suggest the world was ending with no oil pressure. But never from low oil pressure AND an occasional lifter tick. Usually its no oil pressure & massive power loss with a small rod knocking that is very loud and constant, the kind that makes a 12 year old girl say “that car is gonna blow up”. So I doubt that’s your situation.
With good oil pressure now becomes the question of is there some gummed up oil you want to free up in the journal to that lifter or in that lifter. If thats the theory you add Seafoam. Old school was diesel fuel and or ATF. Upside: it works and life is good. Downside: it does nothing= a few bucks lost. Other downside= you free up oil sludge and it travels to somewhere you don’t want it to like: into other lifters; into main journals/bearing; into rod journals/bearing; into wrist pin bearing; into cam journals/bearing; into turbo.
This is the point where you simply do your best Clint Eastwood as Dirty Harry and ask “Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?” And now you go back to that risk vs reward and recalibration usually occurs. If the feeling is an overwhelming “Its gonna blow up anyhow- then without a doubt clean it out. If it becomes- I might wreck this otherwise perfectly running engine- leave it be and let the sound develop.
3. Add the sticky icky if snoop dogg and willy nelson haven’t smoked it all…
My usual suggestion is- all the properties of oil thickeners go wrong if something is loose and about to plug up. So begin with the clean out in step 2- being ready to shut it off and do the oil change if the sound gets louder because thats the huge clue you need a thicker oil because something is slapping around like an ethiopian ak47 in-between jamming.
The concern with a thickener is- the journal to the lifter is partially plugged and the cause of the occasional tick. The sticky goo can make the restriction worse and not allow any oil to get it. Hence the call to flush it out first. Then the thick goo can get in and help keep the lifter lubed up. But Their claim to fame is stopping tick during start up … you sound like you are saying while cruising … So idk if this is gonna be your solution- but you have to decide.
Hopefully my early morning ramblings have helped more than hurt.
Doug, in my experience, once a guy knows his way around a these trucks a bit - his instincts as to what the noise is becomes correct 95% of the time.
Lifter tick in these can be a lifter loosing its prime, or a rocker button that has left the chat. But when it’s a rocker button that doesn’t generally come and go for an extended period of time.- is usually lefts the pushrod go visit new and exciting places before 1,000 miles is up. And you have had this for well beyond that time so my bet is one lifter is just feeling its age.
When the issue becomes more and prevalent- it will usually start ticking every morning with start up until a few seconds after oil pressure is built.
The guess about adding Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer or the opposite of trying to clean it out with Seafoam comes to mind. So hear is the thought process:
1. Leave alone and see vs mess with it -risk/ reward.
If it is mild and rare then leave it. If it happens and you feel impending doom and almost shut the engine off each time then worth the risk. You have to decide where the line is and go with one side or the other. Step 2 usually has impact here.
2. Cleaner vs sticky stuff to add.
First part is do you have good oil pressure in the engine. Testing it at the front right port where it feeds the turbo tells you what the lifters are getting- but since your turbo hasn’t already died from lack of oil- that generally says you have plenty of flow getting through to all the lifters. Unbolting the turbo so the exhaust cant spin it then undoing the oil line and putting an oil pressure gauge there has very rarely revealed the answer in my experience. i have put a T fitting in and left turbo working and got readings that way that made me suggest the world was ending with no oil pressure. But never from low oil pressure AND an occasional lifter tick. Usually its no oil pressure & massive power loss with a small rod knocking that is very loud and constant, the kind that makes a 12 year old girl say “that car is gonna blow up”. So I doubt that’s your situation.
With good oil pressure now becomes the question of is there some gummed up oil you want to free up in the journal to that lifter or in that lifter. If thats the theory you add Seafoam. Old school was diesel fuel and or ATF. Upside: it works and life is good. Downside: it does nothing= a few bucks lost. Other downside= you free up oil sludge and it travels to somewhere you don’t want it to like: into other lifters; into main journals/bearing; into rod journals/bearing; into wrist pin bearing; into cam journals/bearing; into turbo.
This is the point where you simply do your best Clint Eastwood as Dirty Harry and ask “Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?” And now you go back to that risk vs reward and recalibration usually occurs. If the feeling is an overwhelming “Its gonna blow up anyhow- then without a doubt clean it out. If it becomes- I might wreck this otherwise perfectly running engine- leave it be and let the sound develop.
3. Add the sticky icky if snoop dogg and willy nelson haven’t smoked it all…
My usual suggestion is- all the properties of oil thickeners go wrong if something is loose and about to plug up. So begin with the clean out in step 2- being ready to shut it off and do the oil change if the sound gets louder because thats the huge clue you need a thicker oil because something is slapping around like an ethiopian ak47 in-between jamming.
The concern with a thickener is- the journal to the lifter is partially plugged and the cause of the occasional tick. The sticky goo can make the restriction worse and not allow any oil to get it. Hence the call to flush it out first. Then the thick goo can get in and help keep the lifter lubed up. But Their claim to fame is stopping tick during start up … you sound like you are saying while cruising … So idk if this is gonna be your solution- but you have to decide.
Hopefully my early morning ramblings have helped more than hurt.