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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Got the system to 35 on the low side and about 185 on the high side and it slowed way down on sucking up more 134 so called that good.
Compressore no longer cycles just runs nice and steady and with the windows open I think the temp out the bilevel duct was about 45* but I’ll have to do a rerun to verify.
Engine is cooled down some so oil change is now in order. Screw dat mowing stuff, truck needs truck stuff.
Been jumping around today, keep my hands and mind occupied, keep the brain offa little puppy dawg.
 
Towed a rental travel trailer to the Bonneville recreational area so I could support our team’s race efforts and not have to pay the exorbitant $357 a night the non-Quality Inn is charging during speed week. Trust me, for the ‘quality’ of the room, that’s low compared to other places. Even the Motel 6 wants over $180 this week. Screw that!!
Racing is going well and we’re having a good time except we keep getting hit with afternoon micro bursts which tear up shade awnings and pop up canopies. Here’s a few happy snaps.

IMG_1514.jpegIMG_1523.jpegIMG_1521.jpegIMG_1525.jpegIMG_1527.jpeg2512841666047719829.jpeg

Tomorrow I’m supposed to to get my initial test passes in and maybe make take a shot at the currently class record of $125.
 
Paveltolz said:
Towed a rental travel trailer to the Bonneville recreational area so I could support our team’s race efforts and not have to pay the exorbitant $357 a night the non-Quality Inn is charging during speed week. Trust me, for the ‘quality’ of the room, that’s low compared to other places. Even the Motel 6 wants over $180 this week. Screw that!!
Racing is going well and we’re having a good time except we keep getting hit with afternoon micro bursts which tear up shade awnings and pop up canopies. Here’s a few happy snaps.

View attachment 95214View attachment 95220View attachment 95219View attachment 95217View attachment 95218View attachment 95215

Tomorrow I’m supposed to to get my initial test passes in and maybe make take a shot at the currently class record of $125.
Click to expand...
We need some pics of Your grand event.

1754197421858.gif
 
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@MrMarty51 sorry we were out at the coast for a fam vacation. your system was very low on 134a. even after you added some and got it to 35 . 185 it might still be slightly low. stick you a dash vent thermometer in the vent and head down the freeway and see if it begins to warm up compared to sitting idling or driving slow. if so, you need slightly more, but if it cools well I would leave it alone. in my experience leaving it slightly low allows better cooling so long as it's not so low it makes the compressor cycle too much.
 
Took the trailblazer out to the coast this weekend for about a 300 mile round trip. it drove great! pushed it hard on the return trip trying to keep up with my son n law driving up to 95 mph!! only complaint was the tires need balancing since there is a shimmy at about 70 mph. other than that and the need for rear shocks (bouncing) it seems a good runner!.

I would have gotten better fuel milage, but it has a code for one of the o2 sensors and the vapor vent solenoid. got 14.5 MPG's for the trip.
 
Wife took it back out today for work and I got a notification from the GPS I installed on it that her battery voltage was low! she came home and I went to check the alternator and found the side post battery cables loose! Just gotta work all the gremlins out of it in due time LOL
 
Idk about stainless bushings..
Bronze normally use because they are a self lubricant. Also they are softer metal on purpose so they wear out instead of the hole they go into. The steel hole only gets messed up when the bronze gets worn too far.
The stainless will only cause all wear to be on the mild steel holes moving foreward.
 
Will L. said:
Idk about stainless bushings..
Bronze normally use because they are a self lubricant. Also they are softer metal on purpose so they wear out instead of the hole they go into. The steel hole only gets messed up when the bronze gets worn too far.
The stainless will only cause all wear to be on the mild steel holes moving foreward.
Click to expand...
You contradicted yourself. The stainless will not wear through, thus preventing the softer steel hole from getting messed up. There, I fixed it for you.
 
Then I wasn’t clear.
Stainless steel is harder than the mild steel the hinge is made of.
Stainless steel rubbing on stainless steel will require an outside lubricant or they will seize together eventually and the bushing will then start to spin in the mild steel hinge. It isn’t that the stainless steel bushing will wear through. You are making the non replaceable component (hinge) the weak link in the chain.
 
Will L. said:
Then I wasn’t clear.
Stainless steel is harder than the mild steel the hinge is made of.
Stainless steel rubbing on stainless steel will require an outside lubricant or they will seize together eventually and the bushing will then start to spin in the mild steel hinge. It isn’t that the stainless steel bushing will wear through. You are making the non replaceable component (hinge) the weak link in the chain.
Click to expand...
Bushings are a press fit into the hinge. This is similar to the lower ball joints that press fit into the forged lower control arms. They are not designed to spin in the hinge.
 
Big T said:
Bushings are a press fit into the hinge. This is similar to the lower ball joints that press fit into the forged lower control arms. They are not designed to spin in the hinge.
Click to expand...
What will is getting at, is stainless steel sometimes galls on itself and locks up. In which case the bushing would spin in the hinge.

I've often paired stainless to grade 8 to avoid galling.

There's only one way to find out if this is a concern with the pins and bushings.

I'm guessing they're made from a harder stainless, hopefully less prone to galling
 
jrsavoie said:
What will is getting at, is stainless steel sometimes galls on itself and locks up. In which case the bushing would spin in the hinge.

I've often paired stainless to grade 8 to avoid galling.

There's only one way to find out if this is a concern with the pins and bushings.

I'm guessing they're made from a harder stainless, hopefully less prone to galling
Click to expand...
Well the bronze bushings have consistently failed.
 
Be nice if they also had a collar with a grease zerk in the center that would fit in the middle free floating on the pin but fit snug from top to bottom. that would help keep the pin to bushings greased.

I do recall someone made a bushing kit that was greaseable with a zerk at one time.
 
dbrannon79 said:
@MrMarty51 sorry we were out at the coast for a fam vacation. your system was very low on 134a. even after you added some and got it to 35 . 185 it might still be slightly low. stick you a dash vent thermometer in the vent and head down the freeway and see if it begins to warm up compared to sitting idling or driving slow. if so, you need slightly more, but if it cools well I would leave it alone. in my experience leaving it slightly low allows better cooling so long as it's not so low it makes the compressor cycle too much.
Click to expand...
Its all good.
I’ll have to check the bilevel vent temps again, except next test with the windows open.
I did do the 60 mile round trip to church and home.
I had the electro viscous fan hooked to the compressor clutch so the fan would run when the AC button is engaged.
The LED indicator lamp for the fan clutch never once cycled off on the round trip drive.
I since have disconnected the fan clutch from the AC compressor clutch so that the system can run as it normally would.
Oh yes too.
Now with everything in near perfect running order.
The RR cylinder temp gauge never moved off of 190*. I do have 190 thermostats installed.
However, my last 380 mile run the fuel mileage averaged 15.5 MPG.
This short run with the AC and the fan clutch fully engaged, in the 62 mile drive it took 5 gallons of fuel. Putting this mileage at around 12 per.
Although, I didnt have the chance to use the same pump as before I left for church and at that time reset the trip meter.
I also run the nozzle at the middle notch and when the nozzle clicks off I round it to the next even dollar.
Guess I’ll make the same run with the AC on and the fan clutch not running full time and see how that does.
 
do you have the high pressure fan switch installed in the back of the compressor (R4 compressor)? I forget if yours has that style compressor or the one similar to a sanden. iirc on our trucks, one of the high pressure switches need to be swapped out to one that is designed for a electric cooling fan like on the 454 gasser models. I put one on mine so when the high side reaches around 250-280 the fan clutch kicks on and will turn off when the pressures are low enough. helps for when your on the freeway, the fan clutch doesn't need to run and not cost you fuel mileage!
 
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