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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

While heading to AZ last week the A/C started blowing just cooler than outside air. Checked before adding any 134 and the pressure gauge was pegged RED. We bled off a lot of pressure and brought it back up into the safe zone. Blows cold now, not just cooler than scorching. Currently at El Mirage to make another attempt at establishing a record tomorrow or dirt for small diesel powered Streamliner H/DS. Hope the weather gurus are right about the winds calming down. Currently 30mph….
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Paveltolz said:
While heading to AZ last week the A/C started blowing just cooler than outside air. Checked before adding any 134 and the pressure gauge was pegged RED. We bled off a lot of pressure and brought it back up into the safe zone. Blows cold now, not just cooler than scorching. Currently at El Mirage to make another attempt at establishing a record tomorrow or dirt for small diesel powered Streamliner H/DS. Hope the weather gurus are right about the winds calming down. Currently 30mph….
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Dang it man, You get to have all the phun.
Need some help ?
Oh wait, I’m going back to working Monday, save the leave time for Ohio or Alaska or some such. 😹
 
A short while ago I posted somewhere here about my left rear wheel locking up and causing pull to the left under moderate to heavy braking. I finally got around to adjusting the rear brakes. I only adjusted the right rear which needed quite a bit of adjustment. That corrected the pulling problem and the pedal height is significantly higher.
 
Filled up this am at $3.63 for diesel, because of Iran’s threat to close the Hormuz Strait. If they try, I think they will lose their entire navy. No other country in the Middle East wants to see the Hormuz Strait closed.

I did a mpg calculation based on the full and I average 17.3. This was not pure highway miles as there was some driving in town.

I checked the oil level and it was at the top line on the dipstick. I had changed the oil before my trip up to Montana and have now put 1,700 miles on this oil change. I will change it at 2700 miles or 247K, which is just 1,000 miles more.
 
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The window on the liftgate to my wife's 2014 4Runner started to bind up such that it would not go all the way up. To make matters worse, the button is in the center console and the dog has a habit of stepping on it. He also was able to hit the unlock button on driver's side door AND step on the button for the liftgate window, leaving it stuck down while my wife was on a trip in southern Utah, resulting in a whole lot of complaining from my wife.

Researched the matter on https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/ and the conclusion was that the regulator sub-assembly, a system of cables and pulleys that the motor moves to raise and lower the window, gets all rusty and cruddy from water dripping down past the window seal. Once it starts binding, the window will stop and reverse or just bind and stop. There are posts where the cable frayed and bound up the main drive pulley. So I ordered a Toyota OEM regulator sub-assembly.

Regulator sub-assembly arrived yesterday and I installed it today in about two hours. Old assembly was rusty, but the cables were not frayed, though they were definitely gacked up in their cable sheaths. Did a couple tests and it went partially up, then down, then fully up, then down, then fully up and it stopped, locked in the up position. The regulator motor seemed very weak and I suspected that was the problem, but before I buy a replacement, I'd like to check the fuse, but can't find a fuse box in the cab and the manual does not provide location and listing of fuses.

Went out to check the fuse box in the engine bay, but there is no specific listing for window motors. Went and checked the other windows and they all worked. Then I checked the liftgate window. It went half-way down to a hard stop. The other way it goes fully up, every time. Took the panel off and observed from inside the trunk area while my wife operated the window. The cable on the driver's side had slipped under a nylon slide at the midpoint of the track. Repositioned the cable on where it should be on top of the slide and now it goes fully down and up as designed, repeatedly. Regulator sub-assembly was $144 plus shipping. People in the thread were saying they got quoted $1,300 from a dealer to replace both the motor and regulator sub-assembly. I just paid myself well today. With this out of the way, maybe now I'll get in some fly fishing.
 
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