Big T
Well-Known Member
So I checked and last did the driver’s side hing pins and bushings in 2017. Probably put about 20K miles on truck since then, though a bit more off-road with the fishing in MT.
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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....
- Thread starter deejaaa
- Start date
93detroit
Well-Known Member
What?! 90 is a beautiful road! But I did notice that once you're off the the interstate, things deteriorate quickly- thinking of Big Timber out towards the Natural Bridge area (Boulder River).
Big T
Well-Known Member
Oil change on the '99 as the odometer rolled past 235K.
Replaced driver's side sway bar link. Outer CV is starting to leak. Will check to see if Rockford Dura Boot is still in business. Their website is up, but they never answered calls during Covid. None of their so-called distributors near me carried Rockford's stuff. Might have to just go with boots from NAPA.
Replaced driver's side sway bar link. Outer CV is starting to leak. Will check to see if Rockford Dura Boot is still in business. Their website is up, but they never answered calls during Covid. None of their so-called distributors near me carried Rockford's stuff. Might have to just go with boots from NAPA.
Big T
Well-Known Member
So a closer inspection revealed the lower bushing had broken on the bottom hinge. I lifted the door up and pushed the piece of busing back down and the door no longer hits hard on the latch pin. Unfortunately the interior handle is toast, but new one arrives tomorrow. Lucky me, plans have changed and I'm driving my wife down to Salt Lake City tomorrow where she catches a non-stop flight on Southwest to LA for her shoulder follow-up appointment. The change in plans arise because she's now got shooting pain in her right leg likely due to a pinched nerve. I can't let her drive with that. I will hang down there and do some fishing.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Welp! over the last several weeks I have noticed more and more slop in my steering. I finally got the chance to have a peak. had my son help with the steering wheel while I was crawling around looking at all the linkage and joints. narrowed it down to a sloppy gear box and some slop in the column.
I need some help deciding on what the best way to go on a new gear box. I have a reman one here in my garage that has just as much slop as the one that's on the truck now only the end cap or piston is larger.
I also would like to know what other components crate slop in the column other than the rag joint which I eliminated with a u-joint type shaft.
Does anyone know or heard anything good about Edelmann Elite power steering gears? I was looking on RA and saw this one that is supposedly 100 year / 1 mill mile warranty.
I just want to get one that works and will last.
I need some help deciding on what the best way to go on a new gear box. I have a reman one here in my garage that has just as much slop as the one that's on the truck now only the end cap or piston is larger.
I also would like to know what other components crate slop in the column other than the rag joint which I eliminated with a u-joint type shaft.
Does anyone know or heard anything good about Edelmann Elite power steering gears? I was looking on RA and saw this one that is supposedly 100 year / 1 mill mile warranty.
I just want to get one that works and will last.
jrsavoie
Recruit
Longevity is most often my goal when parts shopping.
I don't care if it's triple the price if it buys me years of service.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
That is what I am hoping for, longevity. This one on RA is within my price range too! searching here in the forum I have only found one member who has used this brand box. others have mentioned the blue top ones but when I looked into them, I found that they are all reman units which steers me away knowing a re-builder has to work with what they get in for cores.
Big T
Well-Known Member
Back in Montana from my little detour to Salt Lake City to get my wife to her follow-up appointment on her shoulder replacement. While in SLC I filled my quest for a Bonneville Cutthroat Trout:
Not the biggest specimen, but it’s crossed off the list and it killed the day between my wife’s flights to LA.
Did some door work today on the ‘99 Burb. Replaced the latch, interior handle and lower hinge pin. Need an engine hoist to replace the bushings, so passed on that and pushed the broken piece of bushing down into the hinge for now. Neighborhood mechanic is on vacation with his family so no access to hoist. Mine is at the Fullerton home and no room in garage to store a new one here in Montana.
Latch was sticky on the lock, preventing the actuator from fully pulling it locked. Works great with the new latch:
Interior handle was bent from forcing door to open as the broken bushing caused it to sag onto the latch pin. New handle and it’s working great:
Also works from outside:
Slid that bushing piece down into the hinge for now:
Not the biggest specimen, but it’s crossed off the list and it killed the day between my wife’s flights to LA.
Did some door work today on the ‘99 Burb. Replaced the latch, interior handle and lower hinge pin. Need an engine hoist to replace the bushings, so passed on that and pushed the broken piece of bushing down into the hinge for now. Neighborhood mechanic is on vacation with his family so no access to hoist. Mine is at the Fullerton home and no room in garage to store a new one here in Montana.
Latch was sticky on the lock, preventing the actuator from fully pulling it locked. Works great with the new latch:
Interior handle was bent from forcing door to open as the broken bushing caused it to sag onto the latch pin. New handle and it’s working great:
Also works from outside:
Slid that bushing piece down into the hinge for now:
Big T
Well-Known Member
Damn one of those videos has 2.7K views already! Does that mean I’m an influencer?
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Engine hoist? When I replaced my pins and bushings I just used my 3½ Ton floor jack to support/align the doors on my Burb.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Engine hoist works so nice.
I sawed off the two forward floor legs on my hoist. Installed casters on the portions that was left. Used some 1/4 or 3/8ths inch flat and made two side plates with a hump on each one that sets above where I wanted the legs to pivot. Had three 3/8ths holes drilled through each side plate so that they would align near perfect after side plates was welded on. Got the three holes drilled through the two forward legs, the 3/8ths bolt for the top hinge pins. Now the hoist folds with the levs pointing rearward and up. A couple pieces of ligjt chain around each leg to a support to keep the legs from falling rearwards. I’ll try to get a pic of the contraption tomorrow morning, if I dont have to move stuff to het it into a photographic position.
Right now doc tells me it is most important to just avoid any twisting, bending or lifting until this joint in my back has healed
I sawed off the two forward floor legs on my hoist. Installed casters on the portions that was left. Used some 1/4 or 3/8ths inch flat and made two side plates with a hump on each one that sets above where I wanted the legs to pivot. Had three 3/8ths holes drilled through each side plate so that they would align near perfect after side plates was welded on. Got the three holes drilled through the two forward legs, the 3/8ths bolt for the top hinge pins. Now the hoist folds with the levs pointing rearward and up. A couple pieces of ligjt chain around each leg to a support to keep the legs from falling rearwards. I’ll try to get a pic of the contraption tomorrow morning, if I dont have to move stuff to het it into a photographic position.
Right now doc tells me it is most important to just avoid any twisting, bending or lifting until this joint in my back has healed
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
I own a 2T engine hoist with folding legs, too, @MrMarty51. With everything folded and stowed, it only sticks out a little over a foot when I roll it up against the garage wall. I just found the floor jack to be just fine for the change/installation of new hinge pins and bushings.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
I forgot to get pics of the folded hoist.
I use bolts that are way way too long, so that the shank of the bolt extends through the bearing surfaces, saw off the extra threads and all is nice and well.
I use bolts that are way way too long, so that the shank of the bolt extends through the bearing surfaces, saw off the extra threads and all is nice and well.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Big T
Well-Known Member
I tried, but without a second set of hands, it gets tough.....and my wife is a one-armed priest maker right now.
Pushing the broken bushing piece down into the hinge works right now, but it does ride up and you need to stay on it.
Big T
Well-Known Member
I may need to look at replacement hinges. They're like $24 per side, but the question is how to install while ensuring alignment.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
I did mine by myself. Did the upper hinge first, then after it was done did the lower hinge. Only needed the 3½ ton jack to hold the door's weight and to make minor alignment adjustments for putting in the new hinge pin after driving out the old bushings and driving in the new ones.
Big T
Well-Known Member
You need to undo both hinges to be able to pull the door away for enough clearance to get the bushings in, then slide it back in to get the pins in.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
YUP.
Thats been my experience.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
I too would like to know how to replace the hinges and still get proper alignment. sure would have been nice if they left them bolt on instead of welded in place.
I suppose it would be a lot of work, but one could pull the door off, then drill through the hinge and pillar, cut off the old hinge and use the holes as a template to drill the new ones . make a backing plate to go inside the pillar for support with the same holes drilled. then bolt it all together and be done without welding them back. even once everything gets drilled, the holes in the pillar could be egged a little for minor adjustments like the old trucks had, also tack weld the nuts to the inner plate.
I suppose it would be a lot of work, but one could pull the door off, then drill through the hinge and pillar, cut off the old hinge and use the holes as a template to drill the new ones . make a backing plate to go inside the pillar for support with the same holes drilled. then bolt it all together and be done without welding them back. even once everything gets drilled, the holes in the pillar could be egged a little for minor adjustments like the old trucks had, also tack weld the nuts to the inner plate.