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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

I noticed after mine was installed that temps are more consistent at 186-188 with a 190 degree thermostat, it heats up to temperature more quickly from cold, and brings coolant temperature down more quickly when working it hard.
 
Disney owns Fox now. I think that’s whats happened to them
I noticed after mine was installed that temps are more consistent at 186-188 with a 190 degree thermostat, it heats up to temperature more quickly from cold, and brings coolant temperature down more quickly when working it hard.

What brand thermostat, and crossover are you running? I noticed in the fleet that different brand stat even though same rated temp had descent impact. So we did brand testing, but I noticed they altered how they make them now vs back then.

I also did experimenting of no thermostat and simple restrictor plates (think flat washers with different sized inside holes) And the cool down from hot is great but makes it run too cold most the time. It always made me want a ball valve style that can have full flow when needed. Really the electric positive displacement water pump controlled by temps and eliminate a thermostat as we know it would be ideal. Want to heat the engine: pump off. Max cooling- pump 100% speed and fan speed maxed. That set up is used industrially for plant processes all over the world. No where I have seen do they have a pump run full speed and block its flow to regulate cooling, it’s massive waste of energy and poor control system- simply way less efficient.
 
What brand thermostat, and crossover are you running? I noticed in the fleet that different brand stat even though same rated temp had descent impact. So we did brand testing, but I noticed they altered how they make them now vs back then.

I also did experimenting of no thermostat and simple restrictor plates (think flat washers with different sized inside holes) And the cool down from hot is great but makes it run too cold most the time. It always made me want a ball valve style that can have full flow when needed. Really the electric positive displacement water pump controlled by temps and eliminate a thermostat as we know it would be ideal. Want to heat the engine: pump off. Max cooling- pump 100% speed and fan speed maxed. That set up is used industrially for plant processes all over the world. No where I have seen do they have a pump run full speed and block its flow to regulate cooling, it’s massive waste of energy and poor control system- simply way less efficient.

Dual thermostats, both are Motorad 190s
 
Changed out the driver's side barn door handle assembly and lower latch on my son's 1994 K2500 Suburban. Harvested the parts from the old 1999 door. The bottom latch on the '99 has improvements over the '94. The bolt pattern and plate are slightly wider than the holes in the door, which needed reaming to fit. All is good and finally have a fully functional door latch.

Next up, install the injection pump.
 
Changed out the driver's side barn door handle assembly and lower latch on my son's 1994 K2500 Suburban. Harvested the parts from the old 1999 door. The bottom latch on the '99 has improvements over the '94. The bolt pattern and plate are slightly wider than the holes in the door, which needed reaming to fit. All is good and finally have a fully functional door latch.

Next up, install the injection pump.

I have an injection pump to do as well. Going for a bit of an upgrade though...
 

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Wifey telling Me that the left side door lock on the truck has quit working, electronically and manually. She says that the manual button will not push down.
I aint screwing with it, it is going to the body shop, Just dont feel like dealing with it, or anything else. LOL
 
Wifey telling Me that the left side door lock on the truck has quit working, electronically and manually. She says that the manual button will not push down.
I aint screwing with it, it is going to the body shop, Just dont feel like dealing with it, or anything else. LOL

I’ve gotten pretty good at replacing that stuff. Takes me about an hour.

I did take two driver’s side doors to the wrecking yard as the ladies (general contractor on the kitchen and my wife) were glaring at me. They want all the shit stored behind the garage gone as we head toward doing the yard in the coming year.
 
Welp, Fixeded the door lock problem. Went out, tried the manual lock button, yup, wood not slide down. Put the key in the key lock/unlock slot, turned the key to the neutral position and lock now functions as designed. LOL
 
Mechanism inside and rods that go through clips need clean/lube. silicone spray (not silicone sealant) is a really good choice. Second choice would be spray graphite. Don’t use oil based ones that will collect dirt like wd40.
Do it soon enough and you might not have to replace parts.
In rusty areas you might have to sand down the rust off the control rods where they slide through the clips.
 
Mechanism inside and rods that go through clips need clean/lube. silicone spray (not silicone sealant) is a really good choice. Second choice would be spray graphite. Don’t use oil based ones that will collect dirt like wd40.
Do it soon enough and you might not have to replace parts.
In rusty areas you might have to sand down the rust off the control rods where they slide through the clips.

Can you just stick the straw up in the latch mechanism and spray from there, or should you take it out and be more precise? The lock mechanism on my passenger door is gummed up or binding, I have to press the lock button multiple times to get it to fully engage the lock.
 
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