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Water pump leak diagnosis?

btfarm

btfarm

America First!
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Location
Sandwich, Illinois
I have coolant leaking at the engine front. I suspect water pump but how do I confirm that. Can I get an inspection mirror to it from above?
 
Process of elimination? Any residue? Other places without residue? I have never used it but leak detector dye and a light????

I usually use brake cleaner to clean an area then a good flashlight a while later to see if its wet again.
 
The water pump leaking normally leaves an orange/red film with white crystals in it down the drivers side of the aluminum oil pan.
 
Yeah, That is what my quick disconnect did too. I guess a weep type leak with Dex-cool leaves whitish maybe even light pink crystal? residue where it can dry slowly with repeat wetting especially in a nook or cranny.

I think I cleaned my quick disconnect a couple of times and let it weep some more before I changed it.

Seems early on a weep leak tend to happen when the truck gets really hot and builds a little higher pressure or fast pressure build when pieces are cool??? Sometimes they don't seem to leak much. Use a cleaner that evaporates and leaves no residue (brake cleaner or electrical cleaner etc) to clean water pump area and downhill of suspect areas then look for reappearance of wetness or residue.

I don't know what is possible in your case. What do you think about trying to put a piece of cloth type tape or chalk mark on something slightly downhill of possible leak points to see if it catches a fresh weep and helps identify a source trail. I have heard tips to put a piece of clean cardboard or paper under a parked car and look for new wet spots but never tried it. Not sure a weep would make a spot.
 
I'll crawl under and look at it today. I am kinda surprised it happened with no warning because I have a pretty good puddle on the floor.
 
Grandson and I changed the pump and thermostats today. Thermostats no biggie. Pump not so. In fact it's a major pain in the ass. Took us almost 6 hours to do it.
 
btfarm said:
Grandson and I changed the pump and thermostats today. Thermostats no biggie. Pump not so. In fact it's a major pain in the ass. Took us almost 6 hours to do it.
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I pull the radiator out when I do them, makes the job SO much easier to do.
 
What the heck happened to GM with the most wonderful water pump change to pita.:banghead:
At least you don't have to touch it for a long time now.
 
At 165 bucks from NAPA it better last. I didn't have the flywheel hold tool so had to pull the starter. There was a couple of other surprises with the bracket for the long gone inner shroud being in the way that all together added probably 3 hours. Tried to get the flywheel hold tool tool but no luck anywhere nearby.
 
btfarm said:
At 165 bucks from NAPA it better last. I didn't have the flywheel hold tool so had to pull the starter. There was a couple of other surprises with the bracket for the long gone inner shroud being in the way that all together added probably 3 hours. Tried to get the flywheel hold tool tool but no luck anywhere nearby.
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If you pull the radiator out, you can drop a 1/2" drive impact in with a short socket, and zip it right out.
 
Isn't there a few orings that you almost always destroy during the reassembly? It's been a while since I witnessed a seasoned mechanic get used and abused by a Dmax. :D
 
Pump replace itself is fairly easy once you get to it. I don't see how my Ingersoll 231 would touch the damper bolt if I could get it on. It took me and my grandson with a 44" 3/4 drive breaker bar to loosen it.
260 miles today on a trip out to the quad cities area and all is well with no leaks and the temps back to normal
 
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