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water mist or intercooler

What? no individual tire pressure sensor? I'm a bit disappointed. With all that instrumentation in their it must feel like flying a plane. It's nice to know what your truck is doing.
 
OregonHorseTug said:
Let's see, just for the sake of argument :D -
  1. Industrial steam turbine users will spend hundreds of thousands of dollars to make sure the condensate in the steam piping does not get to the turbine.
  2. The prop blades on my (high rpm) sport plane spin up to 2800 rpm, turbo props run about 2000, the compressor in your turbo charger runs upwards of 100,000 rpm
  3. Look at a prop on a seaplane some time to see what water does at blade tip speeds of only 1100 fps (90" prop at 2800 rpm)
  4. water drops, even very fine ones, will erode a turbine compressor wheel.
  5. If you consider your compressor wheel to be a replacement item then this design is okay.
The question remains, how long will it last? If you're building a quarter-mile rig it's irrelevant. For those of us looking for longevity and pulling heavy up long hills, my money is on post turbo injection.
Mike
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The latest Maxx Torque mag. had a good article about this topic. That is where I got my ideas from.
 
I wouldnt consider the big injectors like 500cc and higher foggers. My 300cc at 150psi isnt a fogger, mist yes. but yes the most atomized the better, thats why anyone is better off with multple small nozzles than single large.
 
Yea I'm going to go with a pre turbo 2 or 3 nozzle. After I get some other stuff done to mine. performance is last. I want a reliable ride.
 
I've seen turbo impellars quite erroded from water on a couple of gasser street/strip cars. I wouldn't do it myself, but there are plenty of people that do.

Bill
 
ryridesmotox said:
Golly I sure hope you aren't using water from the beach batman. Water won't harm the metal unless its at a ridiculously high pressure. I think a water jet metal cutter runs at like 30-40,000 psi or something crazy like that. Planes run in rain storms and a turbo probably doesn't spool much faster than a metal turboprop plane propeller at full RPM. Plus in rain there are small particulates like sodium, carbon and acid crap. I'm pretty sure most WMI systems call for distilled or highly purified water. Like buddy said no one has shown any early failure... YET

just my 2 cents. I will be going with WMI pre-turbo 3 nozzle setup next spring.
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here in Surrey BC we have pretty good quality water. sandblasting was a figure of speech for lack of better wording. I still think water, no matter how pure will eat away at blades spinning at 100,000 rpm's. for the sake of argument going post turbo will allow for an intercooler in the future. if you go pre-turbo i'd think water will condense in an intercooler setting yourself up for a catastrophic engine failure if that water ever makes it to the engine. Ed
 
Edzzed said:
here in Surrey BC we have pretty good quality water. sandblasting was a figure of speech for lack of better wording. I still think water, no matter how pure will eat away at blades spinning at 100,000 rpm's. for the sake of argument going post turbo will allow for an intercooler in the future. if you go pre-turbo i'd think water will condense in an intercooler setting yourself up for a catastrophic engine failure if that water ever makes it to the engine. Ed
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This is all addressed in the Maxxtorque article, including the advantages of pre-turbo water. The key there is the use a fogging nozzle (not a spraying nozzle). These are specially designed to provide the smallest micron droplet size possible.

Read the article. If you have somewhat of a handle on thermodynamics, you will then understand why the water (injected pre-turbo) will never condense in the intercooler. It has something to do with the Dew Point of air at 200+ deg F and the efficiency of an air to air intercooler....???!?!?!?....????:rolleyes5:

Now shooting water in after the turbo COULD get you into trouble very quickly. Pre-turbo water is consequently much "safer" for the engine than post-turbo water...

Regards,
 
buddy said:
So preturbo I wouldnt trust a home brew setup, perhaps the setup in MaxxTorque with 4 tiny foggers.
Click to expand...

Pre-turbo is the only way that I would trust a homebrew setup. If you don't know how to run a calculator and psychometric charts, then you just angle the intake pipe upward toward the turbo and keep the nozzle back at least 12 inches from the impeller. Any excess water will condense and run back out the pipe.

Would you rather risk destroying an engine or a turbo? Injecting too much water post-turbo is an engine waiting to be changed...

Regards,
 
If I were you I'd just go with an intercooler... You don't have to worry about filling any WMI stuff or anything. You won't get a lot of lag with an intercooler setup either... maybe a little more then without but thats about it.
 
Goldsburg said:
Pre-turbo is the only way that I would trust a homebrew setup. If you don't know how to run a calculator and psychometric charts, then you just angle the intake pipe upward toward the turbo and keep the nozzle back at least 12 inches from the impeller. Any excess water will condense and run back out the pipe.

Would you rather risk destroying an engine or a turbo? Injecting too much water post-turbo is an engine waiting to be changed...

Regards,
Click to expand...

Using a calculator aint so hard. so as long as you have small nozzles you wont spray too much. A little water in the intake not going to kill the engine.

Post turbo is simpler if you ask me. Anyone has to do their homework when modifying something on the engine and know how to do it safely.
 
I really need to build a box for my air filter too cuz it's suckin hot air off my turbo and exhuast everything is rite there beside it. I imagine it gets a lil toasty in there.
 
100-200F is a good range. Although it will get up to 300F if boosting high with no intercooler or WMI, which will cause it to defuel. Keeping it under 230 with your max sustained boost is ideal I think. I was watching IATs before and when I started climbing a hill it went up to about 260, but the WMI kicked in and dropped it down to 220.
 
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