"Vegas" '94 Sierra K1500 Ex cab SB

[Darkrider]

I forgot to mention that i found out today that the truck has the Feed the beast mod done to it already using the filter set up from an older 6.2 truck! So between the advanced injector pump timing and this mod the truck should have some nice power going on.

 

[Darkrider]

Its home!!!!!! Brought it home yesterday and took it to work last night.



Dont mind the fuzzyness of the pic i took it with my cell phone last night.

So far the mods done are:

Feed the Beast
opened up the upper intake (cut out a lot of the webbing)
Advanced timing on the IP.

 

[deejaaa]

looks good. get more pics when it warms up. i was wearing shorts today when i worked on mine.

 

[Darkrider]

It warmed up alright today, Got some pics in.

 

[Darkrider]

Some more pics from today



I also took the time tonight to decode the RPO codes that i found in the glove box heres what i found...

AC7: Pipe, Fuel tank fill vent - unrestricted
AG9: Adjuster, Seat, Power. 6 way
AJ1: Window Tinted, Deep, All except ws and doors
AM7: Seat, RR, Fldg
AU3 Lock Control, Slide DR. Elec
A20: Window, RR, Quarter Vent Swing out
A31: Window. Power Operated. All Doors
B3J: Equipment, Diesel
B32: Covering, Frt Floor Mats Aux
B
B65: Travel Bed Package
B96; Molding, whl opening
C55; Vent, Roof
C60: HVAC System, Air Conditioner Frt Man controls
C95: Lamp, INTR, Roof, Courtesy and Dual Reading
D45: Mirror O/S SST
E63: Body Equipment. Fleetside. PUBX
FE9; Certification. Emission, Federal
FK2: Arm, LH, Torsion Bar spring adj (A)
FW3 Ratio. Transaxle. Final Drive. 4.02
FLT
F44: Chassis. Heavy Duty
F51: Shock Absorbers. FRT& RR. HD
GT4: Axle Rear, 3.73 (Dup WITH 5 x 1)
G80: Axle Positraction. Limited Slip
JD6: Brake, HYD Power, Disk/Drum, 7200 lbs
KNP: Cooling system, Trans, HD
K34 Cruise Control, Automatic, Electronic
K60 Generator. 100 AMP
L56: Engine, Diesel, 8 cyl, 6.5 Turbo
MT1: Transmission, 4 spd, Auto with Elect controls H.D. (Hydra Matic 4L80E0
MXO; Merchandised, Trans, Auto Provisions. O/D
NA5: Emission System, Federal. Tier O
NK3: Steering wheel. Sport, Soft Rim, Simulated Leather
NZZ: Skid Plate Off-Road
N33; Steering Column, Tilt Type
DSG;
PF4; Wheel, 16x7 Cast- Aluminum
R7K:
SVA: Holder Cup
TR9: Lamp Group
T61: Lighting, Daytime Running
UX1: Radio, AM/FM, Stereo, Cassette, Equalizer
JY7
V16
V66
VB3: Bumper, RR, Step, Chrome, Impact Strip
VG3: Bumper FRT. Impact Strip
VK3: License Plate, Frt Mounting Pkg
VR4: Trailer Hitch, Weight Distributing Platform
VXS; Vehicle Complete
V22: Grille, Radiator Chrome
V27: Guards. Bumper FRT
V73: Vehicle Statement. USA/Canada
XBK: TIre Front, LT245/75R16/ E BW R/PE ST TL OOR 120Q
YBK
YD3: Front Axle, Base Equipment for scheduling GVW Plate
YD6: Rear Spring, Base Equipment
YE9: Convenience Package, Comfort and Decor Level # 3
ZBK
ZQ2: Power Locks and Power Windows
Z03 Sales Package, Driver Convenience II
ZY1 Color Combination, Solid
Z31
Z49: Export Canadian Modification, Mandatory Base Equipment
Z52: Merchandised PKG, Sport Handling
Z99
1SE: Option Package Option 05
Z9Z
13D: Trim Combination, Cloth. LT slate Gray (D)
13T: Top Color. Bright Silver Metalic
39U: Primary Color, Exterior. Dark ADRIATIC Blue Met (94)
6GH
7GH

 

[deejaaa]

what is the C55; Vent, Roof?
still think it looks good. nice background but it still looks cold.

 

[Darkrider]

what is the C55; Vent, Roof?
still think it looks good. nice background but it still looks cold.

Thanks! Not sure what that is either. I did get a chance to get over to the GMC dealer here and they printed me off a full list of all the RPO items in the truck. So now i have an exact list. When i get some time tomorrow i will compare the list that i came up with to that one to see how much of it i had right lol.

On a side note My voltage gauge seems to read a little low but then again it could be normal to these trucks. What i am seeing is that it is 2 notches below the 14V mark on the gauge. If i were to assume the notches are around 1 v each It seems like its around the 11-12V area. Is that normal for these trucks? I will prob have a chance to connect it up to a Snap on Scanner on Thursday to confirm actual RPMs and to make sure the code it was throwing before the IP change was done is no longer being shown. So i can check the actual alt output at that point. From what i seen of the pics of the voltage gauge in the owners manual the needle is roughly where its shown in the display pic so i dunno if i have cause for concern or not lol.

 

[deejaaa]

mine shows just a c hair under 14.

 

[Darkrider]

mine shows just a c hair under 14.

Yea mine was like that initially as well. Still trying to sort out what happened. I do know there was an accidental coolant leak on sunday night mostly due to the bleeder screw not being tightened up again after we topped up the coolant. Just hoping that didnt screw something up on the alt.

 

[handcannon]

With a 94 your alt will be the CS130, mounted on the drivers side. My alt seemed to not be putting out as much as it should. The gauge was reading a bit low like yours is, and sometimes the starter seemed like it was a bit weak (new starter and batts). So I got a CS144 140 amp alt, I think for a 99 Sub, and installed.

The CS144 is physically larger than the CS130 so I had to mod the rear support bracket. The electrical plug was the same so that was plug-n-play. The CS144 seems to start charging at lower RPMs and definitely keeps the batts happier.

Don

 

[Darkrider]

With a 94 your alt will be the CS130, mounted on the drivers side. My alt seemed to not be putting out as much as it should. The gauge was reading a bit low like yours is, and sometimes the starter seemed like it was a bit weak (new starter and batts). So I got a CS144 140 amp alt, I think for a 99 Sub, and installed.

The CS144 is physically larger than the CS130 so I had to mod the rear support bracket. The electrical plug was the same so that was plug-n-play. The CS144 seems to start charging at lower RPMs and definitely keeps the batts happier.

Don

Nice! i will def look into that as an option. I have located a shop here in town that if i took my original alt, or a usable core to them they can rebuild it as a 160 amp with a different rear cover on it for better cooling. I will compare the price between that option and the CS144. Its a pity that the truck has the old style alt as compared to the newer one that is held on by 2 lugs at the bottom with the black plastic cover on it. Because if it had been the shop had a plug and play 250 amp alt lol.

 

[OrionThade]

Until tonight my gauge showed just under 14v. I installed a set of racedaymechanic's battery cables and now it showed just over 14v. Sucker turned over faster than I've ever heard before.

 

[Darkrider]

Until tonight my gauge showed just under 14v. I installed a set of racedaymechanic's battery cables and now it showed just over 14v. Sucker turned over faster than I've ever heard before.

Nice! I will def keep it in mind. Im planning on switching to dual post batteries in the near future so I have connection points for accessories like the winch im adding. So I will def keep that upgrade in mind when I change the batteries.

 

[deejaaa]

Nice! I will def keep it in mind. Im planning on switching to dual post batteries in the near future so I have connection points for accessories like the winch im adding. So I will def keep that upgrade in mind when I change the batteries.

if you do the batt conn mod, like i did on both of mine, you will have plenty of room for extra conns on the side post. i used to hate side post until i did this. the longer the bolt, the more room you have. i use stainless bolts/washers plus you won't need new batts. this would def compliment racedaymechanic's cables.

 

[Darkrider]

if you do the batt conn mod, like i did on both of mine, you will have plenty of room for extra conns on the side post. i used to hate side post until i did this. the longer the bolt, the more room you have. i use stainless bolts/washers plus you won't need new batts. this would def compliment racedaymechanic's cables.

Do you have a link to a thread about this mod? You def got my attention!

 

[OrionThade]

Do you have a link to a thread about this mod? You def got my attention!

The basic gist is to take out the crappy side post bolts and replace them with a longer bolt that seats all the way, then use a nut and washer to seat the cable connections against the terminals of the battery. Provides a tighter connection without putting the twisting torque on the soft lead of the battery terminal. I forget what size it is, but if you do a search I believe there's a guide with pictures.

 

[ak diesel driver]

it's better to use a double nut so you can really tighten it without stripping out the batt threads

 

[Darkrider]

The basic gist is to take out the crappy side post bolts and replace them with a longer bolt that seats all the way, then use a nut and washer to seat the cable connections against the terminals of the battery. Provides a tighter connection without putting the twisting torque on the soft lead of the battery terminal. I forget what size it is, but if you do a search I believe there's a guide with pictures.

So if im understanding this right basically i would be having two bolts sticking out past the terminals that i could stack connections on or simply use to connect booster cables if i ever have to jumpstart the truck?

 

[Darkrider]

So im more or less replacing the stock GM bolts with something like this?



or something like this?

 

[ak diesel driver]

I would use a bolt with 2 nuts rather than the stud it will let you screw the bolt all the way in (use all the available threads) and snug it. then snug down the first nut put on your cables and use 2 wrenches to get the connection tight while not increasing the stress on the lead threads.