Using an HX35 for towing

[tanman_2006]

I won't be using the 93 in the winter, Ol'Blue is my winter feed truck. I want 18:1 for the reduced stress on the bottom end and higher boost tollerence that I have been reading about. I won't know if it benefits a heavy towing truck until I try it. I think it is easily possible to reliably start an 18:1 engine if a glow plug over ride is installed.

I am more intrested in a reliable work truck that MIGHT get around 250hp, not run high egt or ect, and take use and abuse.

On Ol' blue (when I get the time to get it running) it will be running thicker gaskets putting it in th 20:1 area to get the both of both worlds, high boost and easy starting.

My 95 1/2ton is what I will use to "set the world on fire" as you said it. Possibly an attempt at +300HP.

 

[SmithvilleD]

It's certainly possible to get clean cold weather starts from my 19:1 engine. It's a fair statement to say good cold weather starting w/ a bit lower compression increases the importance of a healthy (higher rpm cranking) starting system, good self-regulating glow plugs & the ability to extend the GP cycle time beyond stock.

Regarding what comp ratio may be ideal, GM prolly has more data than any of us hobbyists on the subject. Historically they dropped comp ratio a bit from the original 21.1:1 & reportedly were headed to around 20:1 when the 6.5 in pickups was cancelled. No doubt they were trying to find the best balance of power/fuel economy/emissions/& reliability (warranty claims costs) for the hardware (same materials & design engine block/heads most of us hobbyists are building from.

The best comp ratio might well be different for these latest 6.5 blocks & heads with better materials & design as I fully expect they're a notably stouter engine.

 

[tanman_2006]

So after I was supplied with a good amount of reading I realized the turbo down pipe was gonna be a hold up so i went shopping, what do yall think? Will it clear?

link to non site vendor atpturbo.com disabled I would build a custom 3in one but I can't find an elbow like this and 4in 100* bend looks SAWEET!

 

[ak diesel driver]

might have to put that thing in a big vice and make it out of round to get the clearance you'd need

 

[tanman_2006]

Yeah, I doubt I get this done until I can sit at home in the shop for a weekend, but I can get various angle 4 in elbows mandrel bent and cut them to fit. Then have a connecting collar at the bottom to mate to a 4in diamond eye. It is going to be an expensive down pipe though. Probably be more than the whole exhaust.

atpturbo.com/mm5/ link to non site vendor atpturbo disabled
If i did have so squeeze a section it still would fow more air than a 3in system I bet.

Any ideas on how to reduce cost are welcome.

I have a 3 in DP with the bottom flange cut off that I COULD cut up but I can't find a tight enough bend to advoid the AC Dryer on the firewall. I could just pie cut the pipe to make a 90 work but I would still have to get a 6inch piece of 3 inch pipe because the tubo exit is at the back of the turbo not the base.

 

[3500GMC]

I was thinking of creating my own SS elbow that joins up to the exising down pipe using this plate that bolts directly to the HX. This would let me tuck the 90 closer to the hot side and hopefully stay away from the A/C accumulator. It's for a 3" down.

 

[tanman_2006]

Does the hx have a 3in band clamp flange pointed straight out the back? I thought it was very similar to the WHC1. They are the same size, boost, and HP rating btw and actually offered the same year.

I did some measuring today and I should have no problem fitting the 4 in pipe bend going down, there will be 6 inches from the outlet to the ac accumulator. It will be close but I think that bend drops off fast enough to clear. I will have to pie cut the pipe at about 4, 6, and 8 inches to make a smooth enough bend to point the pipe toward the rear. Then after that I will squeeze past the firewall, frame, and mainfold like the 3in pipe. There is room for 4in I think.

 

[3500GMC]

Does the hx have a 3in band clamp flange pointed straight out the back? ....

No, my particular HX has a heavy cast iron 45 that bolts directly to the hot side.

I haven't started mocking up any parts yet, so I can't give you any measurements to compare. The WHC1 is a definitely a good candidate for a swap.

 

[DieselSlug]

Wow, just was mosying around for Cummins intercooler pics mounted behind the grill and bam! So i am in the exact same predicament as you!! I have a WH1C, and a Cummins intercooler in my garage im getting parts together to do the swap soon! I did some searching on line and found a place to get the oil feed line adapter!
Check out my rig thread:http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?11133-Resurecting-New-Engine&p=344195#post344195
Post # 347....
The correct adapter is M12x1.5 Male to 1/4'' Female NPTF
I ordered one already
Im currently working on how im going to make a down pipe for it. Keep the info coming!

 

[tanman_2006]

How did you get just one ordered? It says I have to order atleast $20 of parts?

I am glad I am not the only one to go this path. I think a 3in 90* elbow with a v clamp flange on each end would allow the aftermarket DP be used still. I just WANT a 4in DP if at all possible. I will be looking foward to seeing the DP that DZZ71 is working on.

 

[3500GMC]

The correct adapter is M12x1.5 Male to 1/4'' Female NPTF

Excellent.^^

Tanman, maybe back it down to a 3 1/2" ?? Also I believe the 'plate' above will bolt up to the WH1C. It may save you precious space.

I've been working on this truck all winter and now all I want to do is drive it. You guys will probably have your new turbos on before me. I'm slow.

 

[DieselSlug]

How did you get just one ordered? It says I have to order atleast $20 of parts?

I am glad I am not the only one to go this path. I think a 3in 90* elbow with a v clamp flange on each end would allow the aftermarket DP be used still. I just WANT a 4in DP if at all possible. I will be looking foward to seeing the DP that DZZ71 is working on.

Hey, i just used that site for a reference for others. I ordered mine from a local hydraulics place. Was 12 something plus tax. Wont be here for about a week. Wonder it Summit racing sells these types of adapters? Im going to NAPA this afternoon and will check to see if they stock them. Ive been talking to DZZ71 and he was going to let me buy his current down pipe. However i realized how much time/material he has into it relating to the cost for him to build one. Then the insane price of shipping something from Canada to here! I might just go buy a bunch of 4'' piping and have a friend weld it together. DZZ71 says its so close to heater lines n' stuff that you need the heat wrap, im afraid that will hold in the salt here where i live and cause pre-mature rot! I might just go with 3'', the outlet of the turbo is going to be the bottleneck anyway still right?

 

[tanman_2006]

Excellent.^^

Tanman, maybe back it down to a 3 1/2" ?? Also I believe the 'plate' above will bolt up to the WH1C. It may save you precious space.

I've been working on this truck all winter and now all I want to do is drive it. You guys will probably have your new turbos on before me. I'm slow.

The plate on mine is flat and just has a 3in band clamp attachment on it. The problem with using a holset 90* cast elbow is the turbo won't be clocked straight down and will require a plate that has off set holes drilled in it to get the outlet to sit flush with the DP. Machining costs alone would cost more than the turbo and a full exhaust system and at that point I might as well have gotten the ATT. I got this info from another build thread on another site. They ended up using the GM4 down elbow which is too mush restriction for me.

I want the 4in pipe because if the DP angles toward the front of the engine it SHOULD give me a better angle under the heater hoses. Also while the turbo outlet is only 3in it is still going to flow better with 4in pipe and I want to get rid of as much heat as possible.

 

[tanman_2006]

Dieselslug, thanks for the link I will try napa later today then try to find a local hydraulic shop if that doesn't work. I will wrap mine and the heater hose if I nEed to. We don't get our roads salted but maybe 4-5 times a year here and I plan to drive this mainly in the summer or only when it is nEeded to tow.

 

[DieselSlug]

Was working on cleaning up the turbo this AM, currently painting the hotside with VHT Flat Aluminum. Also the P/O painted the compressor black, so im scraping it off to get the natural cast look of the compressor. Also have the S/S hose from the Cummins engine, i got the adapter size from midniteplowboyy, hopefully its the right one, wilol find out when i get it. More pics to come!

 

[3500GMC]

I like the cast finish too. If only there were a way to preserve it. Tried clearcoat, all it does is 'yellow'.

edit: cast as in bare aluminum..-pain in the keester.

 

[SmithvilleD]

When using that aftermarket plate that slip fits 3" exhaust pipe & bolts to the HX-35W outlet, you can "cheat" a bit in the angle you weld in the pipe - it doesn't have to be 100% at 90 degrees to fit & seal when welded.

Some guys have made a heat shield for the DP bend (out of the turbo) using an outside half section cut from a 3.5" (90 degree bend of the same radius as the 3" 90 you're using for the DP bend itself). Can't recall if they tack welded it via struts to the actual DP bend, or maybe bent up mounts that could be stainless steel hose clamped to the DP - so it's removeable if needed for clearance.

I've yet to find a good clear coat to put over freshly bead blasted Al surfaces to prevent oxidation/greying. I've clear powder coated pieces as many polished Al wheels are done. This certainly slows oxidation but the clear powders I've tried all diminished reflectivity quite a bit. Would like to know somebody that's tried a product called Zoopseal? I've heard street rodders talking about wanting to try it. Street rods often have lots of polished Al so they're familiar with how much time it can take to maintain polished Al.

 

[DieselSlug]

Yeah, im going to work on cleaning out all the A/C stuff out from behind the turbo one of these days. Today the G/F's subaru needs a brake job. But first heading out to the VFF pancake breakfast with some friends!

 

[tanman_2006]

Mine has some black paint on it too, I just took steel wool to it and it came off. I am not very interested in looks at the moment but I plan to clean it up better after I get some down time.

 

[DieselSlug]

Ok, still waiting for my adapter, apparently its very hard to get, so i am now working with another company called Adapt All. I believe out of Ohio, but they will forward you to a local distributor in your area. I called the distributor and he is going to get back to me on price.
Adapt All:http://www.adaptall.com/products/carbonsteel/9235.html

So part numbers you need are:
9235-12-04 (this is the M12x1.5 to 1/4'' NPTF)
Midniteplowboyy also used a o-ring washer that im now trying to get...
9500-12mm (o-ring washer)

I got one coat on the hotside, and allready the turbo looks much better! Will paint another coat or two on it and then take pictures again.