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Using an HX35 for towing

tanman_2006

tanman_2006

Just a farm kid...
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Location
Seiling, Oklahoma
My 93's gm3 is bleeding oil and has a frozen up wastegate so i figure its time to use the HX35 I have laying around.

I have been informed I will likely need an innercooler or some other means of lowering IAT's. I figure I can find an old innercooler off of a dodge and make it work if I need to.

I don't have $ for an ATT although that is the ultimate goal.

From what i have heard I thought the HX being a bigger turbo might allow for better air flow and lower IAT/EGT's but I might be wrong.

The Cummins might be smaller displacement but it sure seems to be able to flow more air than our 6.x's. Also it has been brought to my attention that the power starts at different areas on 2 trucks.

I am in NW Oklahoma and will be towing my tractor and swather in my sig. We have alot of rolling hills and afew short but steep hills. Temps in the summer are commonly 100+, and we have nice head winds!

Any thoughts and concerns are welcome!
 
If anyone knows the size of oil supply lines/adapter I will need to do the swap, it sure would save me some time looking for the right parts.

Thanks,
Tanner
 
I'm working on it.

For sure you'll have to 're-clock' the housings. The Comp housing is held from rotating by a small roll pin. The bushing housing (oil line) will need rotated too. The iron to iron fit there is fun. PB Blaster.

Is your HX a *W*?
 
I will take a picture of it, I'm not 100% sure I was told it was off of a 95 Cummins. Does it say on the tag?

My buddy that works on cummins says he is not sure I can clock the turbo that far but he isn't sure. Obviously it can be done because there are afew of us running them.

I'll take any help and advice I can get. Thanks everyone!

Tanner
 
It says it is type WH1C on the tag.

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Ahh then, it's not an Hx35. No biggie though, very close. It's got that big clamping band on the comp housing. I don't know how or if it's pinned like the HX...

I see a waste gate so you're good. Do a home brew 'turbomaster' and you're in.

You should be able to spin those housings around to fit any way you would like.
 
I guess it must be a PRE HX but it is a holset. They look nearly identical. What is a good price for an innercooler? The local salvage is saying $300 for an innercooler from a 24 valve (what they have on the shelf).
 
the crappy ebay intercoolers are around 100-150 bucks. legit aftermarket intercoolers are close to a grand so i think 300 is good
 
 
They look similar too. Thanks for the input. The plan is to mount it behind the grill, i know that will take some work but underthe truck is not an option on a truck that will be off road.
 
I am looking for them but not coming up with much. I still have some time before I get all of the parts gathered up and ready to swap, so looks like I will be reading until then.
 
I don't know what you have done engine-wise, but if you stay within the 10-15 psi range, you'll pick up power without really needing an intercooler. The H1C and HX turbos are better flowing than our GMx versions. This alone will help before you even 'up' the boost.

I don't plan on running an intercooler...;)

Just a thought.
 
3500GMC said:
I don't know what you have done engine-wise, but if you stay within the 10-15 psi range, you'll pick up power without really needing an intercooler. The H1C and HX turbos are better flowing than our GMx versions. This alone will help before you even 'up' the boost.

I don't plan on running an intercooler...;)

Just a thought.
Click to expand...

On your 93 6.2 liter repower? Do you tow very often and how much?

My engine is completely stock and I dont plan on going ove 12psi loaded down. It has a GM Goodwrench engine but it is a 599 so I am betting it was replaced early in the trucks life from some blown hg or some stupid gm thing. I would guess it has a good 180K on the engine. I am planning to swap to 18:1 pistons EVENTUALLY since the truck is towing heavy but I am not sure when I will have the money to get this done. I will go ahead and get the intercooler just incase I need it but I plan on trying it w/o first even if I have to back the fuel off some.
 
Well I haven't really driven the thing on the big road yet. Been Dotting i's and crossing t's. She was pretty beat.

I think it will see an occasional tow with a decently heavy duty tandem car trailer. It has a nice Shelton hitch etc. Probably pull other full size trucks, lumber, skid steer. Not too crazy.

If I see where you're going with the question, the jury is OUT on my Non-IC HX35W... Guess I'll have to feel that one out.

And the jury is out on 18:1 too. Some had done it and gained little. About the only thing they really gained was crappier cold starts. I don't really know how 'they' went about it. For sure the IDI diesels rely on the 'close collision' turbulence of the piston screaming within a few thousandths of the head/pre-cup. Keep the compression UP, I say...

Without going into a big full on tech fest, our inherent limitations of IDI will *usually* put the screws to a big radical monster that we'd LIKE to build.

Heat, cast parts, lightweight stuff in general will come back to bite us.

It sounds like you are not really out to set the world on fire (like myself), you just want a stout tow rig... or at least more stout that what GM offered originally.
 
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