• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Used Engine

Quickie search on the internet came up with this.

As
a rule, the recommended surface finish for a traditional composition style soft-face head gasket in an engine with cast iron heads and block is 60 to 120 microinches Ra (roughness average). But the recommended surface finish for the same type of head gasket in an engine with an aluminum head on a cast iron block is smoother, typically 20 to 50 microinches Ra. On late model engines with multi-layer steel (MLS) head gaskets, the OEM surface finish recommendations tend to be even smoother, say 20 to 30 microinches Ra or even 7 to 15 Ra. But the aftermarket also sells MLS gaskets with special coatings for many of these same applications that can handle surface finishes in the 50 to 60 microinch Ra range. So you have to know your gaskets and the surface finish recommendations for them by the gasket manufacturer, or the OEM if you are using a factory-style replacement head gasket.
 
Most of the articles I came up with dealt with aluminum heads or blocks. I wouldn't use any power disc on those. If I was changing the gaskets on a performance build I'd be extra finicky
 
It has been a while since dealing with the roloc’s to remember all, but you can buy them in 36 & 40 grit for sure, and iirc 20 grit. WAY TOO ROUGH for any head or block.

There are plastic colored rolocs that are for cleaning surfaces. Iirc the white was specified by dodge for their aluminum blocks and heads, Yellow was always bought by honda dealership guys. These are obviously way newer than our engines were done with.

The ra chart used to be available as a metal card you could get and match up your finish to estimate. No clue where to get one nowdays. Wish I had one.
C43F13AD-3A03-489D-9D2A-81BF69BBAEA6.png

Always better to clean it safer and slower...
 
Here's the selection I have in my toolbox. I'd forgotten about the sandpaper ones you can get down to 24 grit. I was thinking of the pads and using the coarse ones. In my case the red onesIMG_20181105_083710.jpg
 
Rodd said:
Thanks guys! I just wiped them down good and blew the oil out. Put tape at the top and labeled. Where are the plastic retainers located. I don't see any.
Click to expand...

Buttons are the yellowed from white, center of rocker, holding the rockers from 'stepping off, bro' in pic below.

head.jpg
 
Wouldn't use any surface conditioning discs Rodd. Have had many of other shops/or do it yourselfers using them do a head gasket job and the car gets towed in to me with an engine knock and the people wonder why. I don't think I've used a surface conditioning disc in probably 20 years on an engine. Real fine metal and gasket material is flying all over an open engine. I was going to look up TSB GM released years ago, but it was quicker to search Yahoo and this came up immediately. I only use a razor blade for the most part to scrape gaskets.

https://gm.oemdtc.com/1895/use-of-s...s-2019-and-prior-gm-passenger-cars-and-trucks
 
1999gmc said:
Wouldn't use any surface conditioning discs Rodd. Have had many of other shops/or do it yourselfers using them do a head gasket job and the car gets towed in to me with an engine knock and the people wonder why. I don't think I've used a surface conditioning disc in probably 20 years on an engine. Real fine metal and gasket material is flying all over an open engine. I was going to look up TSB GM released years ago, but it was quicker to search Yahoo and this came up immediately. I only use a razor blade for the most part to scrape gaskets.

https://gm.oemdtc.com/1895/use-of-s...s-2019-and-prior-gm-passenger-cars-and-trucks
Click to expand...

Thanks Wyatt! I used a razor blade and it worked great. finished in 5 minutes.
 
Will L. said:
View attachment 54445
Something like this is what you are imitating. A shoe box works good. Just label which is front of engine and stab 8 holes on left and 8 on right.

You only
Need one color to mark top of pushrods. Oh you’re identifying is top from bottom. If you clean oit good enough,
Tape works.
Keeping the lifters in exact spot is common practice but not as important on roller rockers.
Click to expand...

I was always told to replace the lifters if you removed them. Wrong?
 
No need for replacement unless you see things wrong.

Disassemble (if extra worried but most dont), clean and inspect for scars, big scratches, etc. keeping in mind the outside round area seals oil. Make sure rollers spin easy, without play, no chips scars etc. then put in bowl of oil and pump up so it draws in oil. It should hold the expanded position under load.

In my experience roller lifters are the only thing good to reuse when rods smash through blocks. I think over all the years I have only seen 2 bad lifters in 6.5s. That is with having seen maybe 350 bad cranks, 400 bad blocks, to keep it in scale.
I estimate 500,000 miles from roller lifters.

If flat tappet- it is crucial to keep each lifter matched to tha cam lobe, and pushrod matched to lifter because the both spin.
 
I just checked the size of the cylinder bore for all 8 cylinders. They are all 4.05xx. I don't think that will change after I deglaze them. I'm guessing when I order the rings I give the smallest size, correct?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top