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Used Engine

Pass:

Only felpro or victor reinze imo for gaskets.

I have seen very few 6.5s need cams. Mic yours before buying one.

Imo if a 6.5 needs pistons that means it needs machine work like boring and I wont bother unless it is a high perf build.

Doesn’t say brand of rings or bearings that I saw.

Step 1 imo is tear down. Then buy whats needed. How can you buy bearings for instance since select fit and you haven’t measured block and crank? Maybe you need undersized or oversized components...

I am chomping at the bit to buy parts and send to Chris for coatings. But unil I can stand on my broke foot longer to rip out and tear engine down, I wait.

Do it in the right order and patiently gives better quality and spends less doing it- always.
 
Rodd said:
After reading through everyones comments I am going to put my updated list here so it doesn't get lost and so it can be seen in one place.

1. Inspect lower end
2. New head gaskets
3. New Injectors
4. New water pump
5. New Oil cooler/lines
added from above:
6. New gears and timing chain (Leroy sells them)
7. Hone cylinder walls
8. Gapless rings (not sure which brand is the best and who sells them)
9. Main and cam Bearings and Rods (Any brand better than another?)
10. Rear main seal
11. Brass freeze plugs
12. Oil pump (What brand is best)
13. Harmonic balancer (would love one of the fluid dampeners but it is pricey)
14. Glow plugs

I think this covers everything that has been posed thus far. Now I need to price it all out.
Click to expand...
I would test your glow plugs and make sure they are AC Delco 60G or Bosch Duraterms. I have heard bad things about the Bosch. I have only used the AC Delco 60G glow plugs.

I give them a visual when I check them. If they look good and test good I use them. If they don't look good, I don't bother testing them all the time. I just pitch them and install new.

Glow plugs can last a good long time.

For the other things it looks like you are spending big bucks on, I would move the Fluid amper and compression test up the list.

If the oil pressure and compression are good, I would skip some of that stuff in favor of a Fluidamper and bypass filter. If you are not going to run a good synthetic oil, I wouldn't spend money on any of that and just run it until it dies.

There's a well respected guy here that sells a top quality synthetic oil.
 
Twisted Steel Performance said:
5. New Oil cooler/lines - I can furnish the oil cooler & lines
8. Gapless rings (not sure which brand is the best and who sells them) - you send the 2nd ring and it gets machined
9. Bearings and Rods (Any brand better than another?) - rod & main bearings only
10. Rear main seal - comes in a gasket kit
11. Brass freeze plugs - any parts house can supply them
12. Oil pump (What brand is best) - Melling HVHP

Order a gasket kit, most seals & gaskets will be in it... Victor sets are better..

I cam supply new coolers & lines if needed..
Click to expand...
I am curious about the need for brass freeze plugs. I have never had a freeze plug issue. What is the desire to swap freeze plugs?
 
Do the freeze plugs rust from the inside out or the outside in?

It's possible that the coating my diesels have on them prevents the rusting from the outside in.
 
Will L. said:
Pass:

Only felpro or victor reinze imo for gaskets.

I have seen very few 6.5s need cams. Mic yours before buying one.

Imo if a 6.5 needs pistons that means it needs machine work like boring and I wont bother unless it is a high perf build.

Doesn’t say brand of rings or bearings that I saw.

Step 1 imo is tear down. Then buy whats needed. How can you buy bearings for instance since select fit and you haven’t measured block and crank? Maybe you need undersized or oversized components...

I am chomping at the bit to buy parts and send to Chris for coatings. But unil I can stand on my broke foot longer to rip out and tear engine down, I wait.

Do it in the right order and patiently gives better quality and spends less doing it- always.
Click to expand...

That is the plan tear down and see what I have. At least inspect the lower end for cracks first and foremost. I was just looking around for stuff to get an idea of cost of the project.
 
yeah, I’m sure it was the water that did it. I had to use the heads off of my parts truck that has been sitting for 8 - 10 years because mine were cracked to bad and no telling what kind of water and antifreeze the guy I got the parts truck from used. I put the heads on my truck and within just a couple months less than 500 miles it started leaking.
 
WarWagon said:
Commie knock off of the throw away GM. Seriously it gets worse than GM cast.

Again better is an Optimizer block used or otherwise.
Click to expand...

What does a bare block optimizer run? Also, how can you tell if it is Chinese crap. I was looking all over the post trying to determine any info and couldn't find anything.
 
Here is a video of the lower end. You can see a chip taken out of the crank. Not sure if it is a problem or not. Not sure where else to inspect in the lower end to check for any cracks.

 
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