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Used Engine

WarWagon said:
Do the rings and deglaze the cylinder walls only. Don't have to pull the crank to do so. Unless the rod bearings show wear leave the crank bolts alone. Undoing and re-torque of the mains adds stress that may have already been released via mains cracks. With the miles the engine will have blowby and while it's out it's easy to do rings. I regret not doing rings twice and did them the next time I pulled the engine. Again GM cast blocks are scrap metal so it's not worth the cost of machining them. Only machine shop cost justified is new cam bearings.

Gapless rings are worth the coin for a cleaner engine and longer oil change intervals. Less soot gets in the crankcase. My sig link goes in depth on my results.
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Thanks WW! I just read through your thread on gapless rings. Very informative. If I understand correctly only the 2nd ring should be gapless? Since I've never done rings before, you are referring to the rings on the cylinder, correct? Also from your thread it looks like I would need to send the cylinders in to have the gapless rings added?
 
After reading through everyones comments I am going to put my updated list here so it doesn't get lost and so it can be seen in one place.

1. Inspect lower end
2. New head gaskets
3. New Injectors
4. New water pump
5. New Oil cooler/lines
added from above:
6. New gears and timing chain (Leroy sells them)
7. Hone cylinder walls
8. Gapless rings (not sure which brand is the best and who sells them)
9. Main and cam Bearings and Rods (Any brand better than another?)
10. Rear main seal
11. Brass freeze plugs
12. Oil pump (What brand is best)
13. Harmonic balancer (would love one of the fluid dampeners but it is pricey)
14. Glow plugs

I think this covers everything that has been posed thus far. Now I need to price it all out.
 
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Will L. said:
Yes. If you are worried about not disturbing the mains and don’t want to mess with crank, the pistons can come out without undoing the crank if you choose. Personally I would do new bearings in rods, main and cam. New rings. If you see any cracking then leave the crank alone. Can still do rod and cam bearings and rings that way.

New timing chain (usually chain drive gears can be reused- show pics before buying) if cant afford gear drive.
New brass freeze plugs. New oil pump.

Absolute- new harmonic balancer! Of course fluiddampr is best long term choice but a AC Delco is good for 100,000 miles. Don’t bother with the cheaper ones. Doorman are not even lasting 30,000 miles.

While everything is apart I like to do the waterpump because you have it off anyways and is a p.i.t.a. To bad Peninsular deal is gone. I asked John of UD about any of the take off parts and he said he didn’t get any in the deal:sorry:.
Maybe (cant recall his name) original Peninsular owner still has parts in Florida? If anyone lives near him or knows a different phone number, maybe we could find out?
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What were you referring to Will when you said if you see any cracking leave the crank alone. Cracking where?
 
5. New Oil cooler/lines - I can furnish the oil cooler & lines
8. Gapless rings (not sure which brand is the best and who sells them) - you send the 2nd ring and it gets machined
9. Bearings and Rods (Any brand better than another?) - rod & main bearings only
10. Rear main seal - comes in a gasket kit
11. Brass freeze plugs - any parts house can supply them
12. Oil pump (What brand is best) - Melling HVHP

Order a gasket kit, most seals & gaskets will be in it... Victor sets are better..

I cam supply new coolers & lines if needed..
 
Rodd said:
What were you referring to Will when you said if you see any cracking leave the crank alone. Cracking where?
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If you see any cracks in the block main webs. Normally everyone will panic and throw it away or assume they have to have it welded or do locknstitch. If you are tight on money, just leave the mains the hell alone, install new oil pump and close her up and run it- WITH A NEW BALANCER. Many miles been put on cracked blocks as long as you don’t touch the main bolts. Some guys just goop on silicone to oilpan and dont add any money into it other than balancer and get 40-50,000 miles.

Take note on 1 detail mentioned- BRASS freeze plugs. If the gasket kit comes with steel ones, buy brass and put the steel ones on the dashboard for throwing at jerk drivers- thats all the steel ones are good for.
 
Twisted Steel Performance said:
5. New Oil cooler/lines - I can furnish the oil cooler & lines
8. Gapless rings (not sure which brand is the best and who sells them) - you send the 2nd ring and it gets machined
9. Bearings and Rods (Any brand better than another?) - rod & main bearings only
10. Rear main seal - comes in a gasket kit
11. Brass freeze plugs - any parts house can supply them
12. Oil pump (What brand is best) - Melling HVHP

Order a gasket kit, most seals & gaskets will be in it... Victor sets are better..

I cam supply new coolers & lines if needed..
Click to expand...
For the rings I buy the rings and send in the 2nd ring to get machined. Does it get machined to a specific size? Who sells Victor gasket sets?
 
Will L. said:
If you see any cracks in the block main webs. Normally everyone will panic and throw it away or assume they have to have it welded or do locknstitch. If you are tight on money, just leave the mains the hell alone, install new oil pump and close her up and run it- WITH A NEW BALANCER. Many miles been put on cracked blocks as long as you don’t touch the main bolts. Some guys just goop on silicone to oilpan and dont add any money into it other than balancer and get 40-50,000 miles.

Take note on 1 detail mentioned- BRASS freeze plugs. If the gasket kit comes with steel ones, buy brass and put the steel ones on the dashboard for throwing at jerk drivers- thats all the steel ones are good for.
Click to expand...

The good thing is the auto dismantler gave me a 6 month warranty on the motor. They have 3 other 6.5's so if I do see cracks should I send it back to them and get another one?
 
On the gapless rings it's very similar to how an oil control ring is where there's a very narrow ring. The ring you send them will be machined to accept a very narrow ring. When you check the ring end gap you do it for both rings. Then when they nest together the ring gap is correct.
 
Crap my previous post disappeared.
Gapless rings are very similar to oil control rings. Very thin rings, you send them your rings and they machine them to accept a very thin ring. Then when you check the end gap you do both rings separately. When nested together it's got the correct gap.
 
Jaryd said:
@Twisted Steel Performance The lines that you offer are they Teflon coated braided lines with the block and cooler fittings
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I don't like the braided steel, it rubs stuff and causes the braid to chafe and makes the lines stiff.. My lines are made for hot oils, a different rubber than hyd hose is, and their is no reason for teflon inside with the correct hose. My ends are crimped not the "make your own hose" type so they will never leak or loosen up. And yes I do provide all fittings as well as a new cooler that bolts right in place of the old one..
 
ak diesel driver said:
On the gapless rings it's very similar to how an oil control ring is where there's a very narrow ring. The ring you send them will be machined to accept a very narrow ring. When you check the ring end gap you do it for both rings. Then when they nest together the ring gap is correct.
Click to expand...

Just trying to make sense of it. The piston is a specific size and the grooves in the pistons hold the rings. The 2nd ring groove actually holds 2 machined rings on it to make it gapless? Or is it a single ring that where the gap is tight where both sides of the ring meet? Will they need to know the size/diameter of the cylinder wall to ensure proper fitment?
 
Yes the second groove holds 2 rings that nest together in it. You buy the proper rings and they machine based on the ring you send them
 
Running the gapless rings on these engines we want it 2nd groove. If it is natural aspiration gas then top ring is better for slightly more vacuum generated. But since turbo diesel, let the turbo do it’s job shoving air and we benifit more from keeping the oil cleaner and still sealing against blowby.

80% of compression is top ring. 20% is second ring.
80% of oil removal from cylinder walls is oil ring, 20% of oil removal is 2nd ring.

So the normal 2nd ring being able to seal up better and have less pressure on it does a better job stopping blow by under detonation, and the 2nd ring now not having the little gap will stop the oil from staying on the wall and absorbing the carbon of burning fuel during power stroke of piston.

So it will take longer before blow by begins, and will keep the oil more free of cabon soot much better.
 
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The motor was finally delivered tonight. It is a 506 block. The weird thing though is the oil cooler line input and out put are the larger diameter like my 599 block on my 98 suburban. I didn't check it just did the eye test. Did some of the 95 506 blocks have the larger holes?
 
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