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Turbo master question

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pipelinetrash89

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Ok guys, I have a question about the turbo master. I've got one for my truck, and I was wondering about after I put it on is there something I need to do with vaccum system? Can I just do a delete and be fine, or do I need to reprogram everything before I put it on? What's the easiest way to get around the vaccum system on these trucks? It's a 94 k3500 btw, it's been in the shop so I dont have all the info for the vin# and all that
 
You could also put on a boost fooler to prevent coding, before going into high boost operations 10+psi sustained, describe for us any mods or maintenance items you have done or know about recently performed on the vehicle in question. Just upping the boost may not be what you need to be doing, what was the logic behind adding a TM to your ride ?
 
pipelinetrash89 said:
If I want to run more boost will in need to get it reprogrammed? The stock boost is around 7 right?
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With a TM your boost will be where you set it, but if you hit a high IAT condition you will defuel, or hit a boost level the PCM does not expect to see at that rpm for X seconds 7psi or less should not code but may depending where you are on the programs tables boost-fuel-timing-rpm
 
I've put new stanadyne injectors, new glow plugs, new stanadyne grey PMD with #9 resistor remote mounted, new lift pump (from 93). I use the truck for a welding rig, so with my machine and tools is loaded down with about 3,000 lbs extra weight and I pull a travel trailer around with me too. I just want to make it more reliable and have alittle more power is all I want. In the near future I would like to do the Heath cooling upgrade and a ATT
 
You can also install a 3 bar MAP sensor in place of teh turbo boost sensor to keep it from coding for overboost. With stock fueling anything more than 10 would seem like a waste to me.
 
 
pipelinetrash89 said:
So can I run the TM without the map sensor until I can get one? Or do I need to get one then put it on?
Click to expand...

You can ru nit without, just set your boost to keep it under 10 PSI to help avoid it coding and defueling on you. If you want to run 10 or more PSI of boost with it without coding, then the 3 bar MAP is teh cheap way to go for a plug and play way to stop it from coding.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
You can ru nit without, just set your boost to keep it under 10 PSI to help avoid it coding and defueling on you. If you want to run 10 or more PSI of boost with it without coding, then the 3 bar MAP is teh cheap way to go for a plug and play way to stop it from coding.
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Some are selling the connector also. Do you need the connector? or our truck has the same connector?

Thanks.
 
Well I'm not sure if it's the right connector or not. It has a sensor on top of the intake manifold that looks like a map sensor, but I'm not sure if it is or not.
 
pipelinetrash89 said:
Well I'm not sure if it's the right connector or not. It has a sensor on top of the intake manifold that looks like a map sensor, but I'm not sure if it is or not.
Click to expand...

That's the turbo boost pressure sensor which is nothing more than a 2 bar MAP sensor. Swap it out for a 3 bar MAP and you can run teh boost up to about 15 before it will code. Others also tap inline with the sensor output and install a resistor to fool it into reading lower than actual boost pressures, but this is a bit more involved modification(but it is cheaper).
 
I though you needed to check the timing after you changed that one out? How involved is the resistor? I think that one sounds alittle easier to me then changing the map sensor out.
 
pipelinetrash89 said:
I though you needed to check the timing after you changed that one out? How involved is the resistor? I think that one sounds alittle easier to me then changing the map sensor out.
Click to expand...


Not the PMD resistor, some people add a resistor inline to the boost sensors output so it will output a lower boost signal than actual.
 
So it looks like instead of putting a 10k pot, you can replace the MAP sensor with the 3 bar MAP sensor which will be similar to the 10k pot.
 
Ok, so all I need to do is get a 3 bar map sensor with a new plug and cut the old one off and wire the new one in it's place? Does the stock one have 3 wires going into the harness like the 3 bar one will? Or will I need to figure out how to wire the new one up so that it'll work?
 
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